I wish I could turn off cylinder deactivation

Well hi all!

From the Netherlands here and I have read through the whole thing and had good assistance, by tightening the mounts, replacing some tubing that might pass on the short, shift-like, stutter when de-activating from 4 to 2, from my local dealer on my 2.5L 6, but unfortunately not with the result I was looking for.
The biggest issue is that over here, the current max speed on highways for the main part of the day is 100 kp/h or 60mp/h. And at that range, the experience is the most annoying, since the sensitivity makes it go 4-2-4 3 times in occasions within 10 seconds with an open road in cruise. It has gotten worse for some reason between last year Feb and earlier this year, but no way of proving that.
So throttle control, sport mode, paddle shift is the only kind of way to manipulate it. Question though, would any kind of performance kit or tweak actually influence the behavior? Because I love the car to bits, but need to take care of this somehow.
Cheers
 
Well hi all!

From the Netherlands here and I have read through the whole thing and had good assistance, by tightening the mounts, replacing some tubing that might pass on the short, shift-like, stutter when de-activating from 4 to 2, from my local dealer on my 2.5L 6, but unfortunately not with the result I was looking for.
The biggest issue is that over here, the current max speed on highways for the main part of the day is 100 kp/h or 60mp/h. And at that range, the experience is the most annoying, since the sensitivity makes it go 4-2-4 3 times in occasions within 10 seconds with an open road in cruise. It has gotten worse for some reason between last year Feb and earlier this year, but no way of proving that.
So throttle control, sport mode, paddle shift is the only kind of way to manipulate it. Question though, would any kind of performance kit or tweak actually influence the behavior? Because I love the car to bits, but need to take care of this somehow.
Cheers
You didnt mention your cars mileage as that may be a factors. If it has alot of miles, it may need a tuneup(New plugs, ignition part's, fuel and air filters, etc.) And maybe a PCU/PCM and TCU/TCM updates.

For me with only 20,000 to 30,000 miles, what improved acceleration and reduced sluggishness was getting rid of the 19 inch tires and moving to lighter 17 and then 16 inch rims. Each unsprung weight drop has resulted in improved performance. With my current setup, CX5 performs effortlessly on highway at 55 mph to 65 mph speeds.

The only benefits to 19 inch rims was great cornering, hence why they are stacked in garage corner.

Lightweight 17 inch rims/tires really are the sweet-spot. Perfect combo of acceleration, and cornering and comfortable ride.

Very lightweight 16 inch rims/tires have best accelerarion and comfortable ride but with some steering/cornering loss. For me it's an acceptable tradeoff.

You may want to get 17 inch rims/tire combo as well as have your mechanic tuneup your car and get your TCM/PCM firmware/software updates.
 
Sorry for that. It's just 25.000 km and accelerates just fine. It's the jerkyness of deactivation from 4 to 2 what's driving me nuts at times.
 
Sorry for that. It's just 25.000 km and accelerates just fine. It's the jerkyness of deactivation from 4 to 2 what's driving me nuts at times.
Sounds like something is misfire. Mine doesnt jerk when switched from 4 to 2 or 2 to 4. You might want to have checked at dealer if still under warranty or by your local mechanic if out of warranty.
 
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