I want to upgrade to FMIC, from stock. I'd like some advice/input
- Thread starter pomidor
- Start date
gato9lives
Member
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- mzda prtge msp
black daliha
Member
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- 2003 mazdaspeed protege
k sounds good i will try this and move the maf to the tps side and get back to you guys
black daliha
Member
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- 2003 mazdaspeed protege
Update!!! alright i used mostly t bolt clamps were i could and and clamped down on them as hard as i could and i didnt blow any hoses. I then installed a black hks bov that is vta and moved the maf between that and the tp. The car is more steady wont stall and runs decent it isnt perfect at wot but way better but i thought the hks bov would get rid of the turky but not at all oh plus i installed a hks turbo timer wich is sweet
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
I was running a relocated MAF with my HKS V3 and still had turkey, as well as a lean idle. I think it's because the TB, MAF, and BOV were too close together. So now I'm running back to running the dual BOV / BPV setup. It doesn't seem to perform as well as the relocated setup, but it eliminates turkey and keeps the idle smooth so it will have to do until I figure it out.
black daliha
Member
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- 2003 mazdaspeed protege
i think i am going to have to move the maf back to its origianl spot and recerculate cuz i just threw a lean coad today and i cnt be driving it if its running to lean i dont wanna zoom zoom boom so ill be moving it back unless someone can shed some light on this problem
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
I started out with a V1 and still got turkey even after adjusting it several times. If it can't be fixed then whatever but I'm more worried about the lean idle.
That is what happened to me too so I switched back.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
im getting a little turkey on a V1 with relocated MAF...i gotta adjust the valve a little looser though
i think it may be because im running pretty low boost now
i think it may be because im running pretty low boost now
black daliha
Member
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- 2003 mazdaspeed protege
IM running stock boost and did the swap like two days ago and the code popped today so i deleted the code and hope it wont pop up but prolly gonna move the maf cuz of it going lean
black daliha
Member
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- 2003 mazdaspeed protege
well i wudnt care if it ran a rich code but if a card pops a lean code that can be dangerous and now that u mention it i dont remember the code but they said it was a lean code not a rich one
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
I think it is p0171 for the system too lean code. I can't remember if I was getting turkey at full boost or not (8-9 psi) but I am using a vacuum block which is hooked into the intake manifold. Messing with the brake booster is just something I am a little hesitant about.
black daliha
Member
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- 2003 mazdaspeed protege
i tapping into the intake manifold like most cars do i hear the turky all the time full boost 1psi and sometimes in my sleep haha
why? its stupidly easy. youre getting turkey because you have a terrible vacuum source, case open and closed. you cant run a vac block on a regular intake mani nipple, the smaller hose doesnt flow well enough to supply a vacuum block and multiple devices.
on a HKS valve or on the OEM one? the OEM one turkeys all the time but its for different reasons... the outlet of the valve is too small, but turkey can also be caused by a bad vac source- see rick for instance.
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
I don't like the idea of messing with the brakes is all. Though if the poor vacuum source is causing the turkey like you say, I might change my mind. I shall ponder this.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
there are tons of people who delete the brake boosters completely on other cars
if you mess something up, and the brake booster line disconnects somehow (highly unlikely), you will still be able to brake, the pedal will just get alot firmer
just a FYI, in case thats what u were worried about
if you mess something up, and the brake booster line disconnects somehow (highly unlikely), you will still be able to brake, the pedal will just get alot firmer
just a FYI, in case thats what u were worried about
black daliha
Member
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- 2003 mazdaspeed protege
well i will hook the line back up for the manni and go to the brake booster just makes since that boost and vac appplied is going to the manni and boost shudnt be reaching the brake booster
huh???
if youre having turkey problems, the solution is NOT to expose it to a vacuum-only source (like it may be for a wastegate). you need stronger vacuum, but you usually need boost to hold the valve closed.
the brake boost is the strongest source of vacuum because its the biggest line and because of its placement in the IM. it comes out of the back, and snakes upward and toward the drivers side. there is a check valve in it so the brakes dont see boost, yes, but you need to tap the line BEFORE the check valve (to the left/passenger side). you will get a stronger vacuum, but you will still get boost to power a boost gauge, wastegate, EMS, blah blah blah.
you should invest in a vacuum block to install there so you can run lots of stuff. i think i have fittings if you need them.
rick, you already have a vacuum block. if you need 3/8" barbs (1/8NPT) for it, i think still have some i can get rid of on the cheap.
if youre having turkey problems, the solution is NOT to expose it to a vacuum-only source (like it may be for a wastegate). you need stronger vacuum, but you usually need boost to hold the valve closed.
the brake boost is the strongest source of vacuum because its the biggest line and because of its placement in the IM. it comes out of the back, and snakes upward and toward the drivers side. there is a check valve in it so the brakes dont see boost, yes, but you need to tap the line BEFORE the check valve (to the left/passenger side). you will get a stronger vacuum, but you will still get boost to power a boost gauge, wastegate, EMS, blah blah blah.
you should invest in a vacuum block to install there so you can run lots of stuff. i think i have fittings if you need them.
rick, you already have a vacuum block. if you need 3/8" barbs (1/8NPT) for it, i think still have some i can get rid of on the cheap.
