Howto: Rear Pad (disc) Replacement

Solution for stuck calipers

Hey, thanks for the awesome guide. I just finished doing the job on my wife's protege5, and I found something that could be useful to all of the people who can't get the caliper back over the rotor.

So the problem, as indicated, is a stuck caliper. There are two pins that hold the outside of the caliper on - one that has the bolt head under the plastic cap, and the other which is hidden. The second one seems to have a huge tendency to rust in place - our car had both of the rear calipers frozen this way.

However, this should *not * result in buying a new caliper. This problem is actually pretty easy to fix - it took me five-ten minutes, and I'm not particularly handy with car parts. You don't need to buy a new rubber piece, and you definitely shouldn't need a torch.

What you need to do is simply pull the two pieces apart, clean off the rust, lube it up, and put it back together. Under normal functions, the bolt that you can remove is the only thing holding the two halves of the caliper together - you can pull them apart with your hands, and they should slide freely. So you can beat on them all you want to get them apart and you shouldn't break anything.

Remove the caliper assembly from the vehicle completely.

Try to twist the two caliper parts relative to each other. On a good caliper, they should twist freely, allowing you easy access to install the pads. If they don't twist at all (likely if you are having this problem) just hit them with a rubber mallet until they start to move, then muscle them back and forth, back and forth until you've broken the rust sealing it together and it will spin around easily. At this point, you *should* be able to pull the two pieces apart, exposing the pin.

In my case, most of the pin was actually pretty clean, it just had a small ring of rust preventing it from moving.

Remove the rubber covering from that hole. You should be able to pry it gently off with a screwdriver or pocket knife, being careful not to damage it. You can get them cheap at a parts store, but there's no need to make a trip if it isn't already broken.

Then take the whole thing inside and clean it out. Wash out the inside of the gasket and dry it well. Use a wire brush or some fine steel wool and maybe some light oil to clean the rust off of the pin and the hole where it resides. Then wipe/blow them out as well as you can - you want there to be no water, residue, oil, or especially rust specs left to rub and wear on the parts. My rust came off pretty easily, and I blew it out with a can of compressed air.

Then take some good grease (the stuff everyone's been recommending you use to lube the parts - if this has been done better at your easily service intervals you wouldn't have this problem to begin with) and grease the pins, then put it all back together the way it came apart.

Congratulations, you've just rebuilt your caliper. It should work fine for years to come. The two pieces should now move smoothly against each other, and you should be able to push them close enough together to be able to install your brakes perfectly.

I hope this is useful for everyone who had the same problem as me. I wasted a whole day worrying that I had the wrong size of brake pads, and then once I came on here and saw what the problem was, that I'd have to either buy new calipers or take it to a shop with a press to be able to get them apart. In the end, at least with my level of corrosion it was all fixable with a rubber mallet and some steel wool. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Good Jog

Excellent "how to"... the first one took 30 min as I went back and forth to the computer to make sure I was on track... 2nd one took 15 min tops.

A couple of nice hints that really saved me some hassle.

Thanks again.
 
Just found this through a google search and these are great instructions. Of course Mazda should get some kudos for providing a screw to back the caliper piston out too. After reading this thread I was able to bust this out in less than an hour for both sides!
 
wow, my first time took nearly 3 hours! it didnt help that all 4 wheels were seized onto the hub in addition to the lugs being seized on the bolts. my landlord and his neighbors had one hell of a time getting those lugs off. we had to use a massive wrench to whack the tires until the wheels came loose.

the 2nd time took less than 2 hours but that included time waiting for rotors to be resurfaced. lesson to me, get breaker bars, get a clamp or piston retracting tool, and #%$damn those car repair shops for over torqueing the wheel lugs.
 
Ok, I know there is one for the fronts. Ive searched for one for the backs and only found bits and pieces of info and a couple pictures that were helpful, but nothing that I would call a how-to. I thought it would be nice to put together a rear-disc how to. I believe the msp discs are slightly different so this is for the pro5 disc definately and anyone else who has the same rear disc set up.<o></o><o></o>

Great HOW-TO!

How come I can't find the front pads/disc replacement how-to?
 
My allen bolt to retract the piston is stripped!!!! What can I do besides a new caliper? Noooo....
try a slightly larger allen wrench? or ez grip drops (there are other similar products) unfortunately even if you get the piston retracted you still need the allen bolt to reposition it.
 
I wailed away at them for what seemed like... well, probably about 10 minutes to be honest. I tried everything from a regular hammer to a freakin sledge hammer. While I wasn't swinging away like Merel, I was definitely giving it a good wack. (years of practice) nada.... just a whole lot of nothing. Because my car was on jack stands, it got to the point where I was afraid I was going to hit my car right off the jack stands. (though, in hindsight, I suppose that's pretty unlikely) Regardless, I wussed out and settled for the pads. The rotors weren't even necessary anyway... I'll probably give em another shot when I put my winter wheels on this weekend. If anyone's got any advice (besides hit the s*** out of them, by all means, let me know)

Hitting the rusted on rotors so hard make me nervous that I'll set the suspension components out of whack, or break someting altogether.
I used a 10 inch 2-jaw puller, a plumbing torch and WD 40. I'd first squirt WD 40 into the rotor / hub and lug nut area holes and the tightened up the tension on the puller. Let it sit for awhile and then heat it up with the torch. Tighten up the puller and tap the roto with a hammer from the back. I repeated this several times and eventually the rotor did let go. This is never an easy job. Heating up the rotor with a welding torch would have gotten the job done easier, but I don't have one. Before installtion of the new rotors I coated the inside with the silver anti seize - to make the job easier the next time.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for this thread!

New user here. I just did a 4 wheel brake job on my 2001 Protege and the tips here made the job nice and smooth.
 
just replaced 2 rear calipers, rotors, pads. when pressing down on the brake pedal, the front brakes engage but the rear does not. bled both calipers. last night reinspected and repositioned the adjustment gear (the little gear you use the allen tool for) and rebled the calipers. still having the same issue.

  • e-brake works
  • bleeding works and there are no air bubbles
  • off the ground; when i press on the brake pedal the front wheel stops but the rear wheels can still spin even though there is a small amount of drag.
  • after driving 30 minutes on the highway the rear brakes are cool to the touch
  • the fluid reservoir was empty when the old calipers were removed and the lines were left to drip.

it was suggested the ABS might need to be reset. nothing in the FSM i can see that says that unless a DTC occurs. also read online that it might be a proportioning valve but according to the FSM, cars with ABS don't have a proportioning valve. any thoughts? thanks.

update
forgot to update, replaced the calipers again. this time it seems to grab as there is a temp change. the rotors are slightly warmer but visually i can't tell.

the rotors have the crosshatched ground finished as seen from this pic from centric's website:
ddgrind.jpg


and they still look kinda new:
newrotors.jpg


by now (400 miles city/hwy) the OEM rotors had got eaten up really quickly by Hawk HPS pads. if it wasnt for the light rust from rain and the slight drag from the pads that sweep the rotors, you couldn't tell if the pads are making contact at all...

does this ground finish affect the bed-in? any thoughts before i ask the dealer to look at it? thanks.
 
Last edited:
niv---first off i would like to thank you and everyone else who contributed to this thread. i have never done any brake work before and things seem to have gone well so far. my contribution to this thread is minimal at best but for anyone who comes upon this thread in the future and is replacing pads, rotors and calipers, to disconnect the brake line from the caliper a 12mm socket is required. i will bleed and re-set the parking brake tomorrow and let you guys know if i run into any snags that require more information and report back. thanks again. also, i am aware that this thread is going on two yrs. old without any comments but if worked for me. have a good evening everyone.

ciao,
60130_P5
 
hello again guys and gals---just thought i would point out that an 8mm wrench is need to bleed the brakes after caliper removal and a 6mm allen wrench in used to change the caliper "fulcrum/pivot" bolt. also, to adjust the parking brake a 10mm wrench or deep socket is needed. hope this helps anyone that comes upon this in the future.

ps---i just lost my hard drive and was wondering if anyone could pm the link the the parts and service manual i downloaded previously from the site. next up is my valve cover gasket and a timing belt, water pump, etc will i am in there. purchased the car with 130,000 miles and am currently at 150,000 with no idea when/or if it was done. i am hoping/assuming this is not an interference engine.

thanks again,
ciao,
60130_P5
 
Back