ELEmental59437
Member
- :
- 2002 P5, 1978 F250
MODS: can someone move this to the how-to section, and can someone make me a mod or give me access to post in there? I have several more how-to's along with the already posted roof rack removal and it would make things easier on everyone.
A lot of people have been asking for a how-to on custom molding the dscustoms LCD into their dash like I have:
This is what I wrote up for traitorhound in a PM when he asked for help a while ago, I edited it a little and thought I would share it with the board. I really should get pait for all my contributions around here *hint*hint*. (I accept Paypal)
Materials:
-1 small can of bondo
-1 spray can of primer
-1 spray can of silver metallic paint
-1 can of matte clear coat
-Plenty of 200, 400 and 600 grit sand paper
-I bought a spare LED in red to try and match the dash lights but I ended up just removing the LED and bondoing over that hole too.
-adhesive, I used something called e6000 which in form is similar to the rubber adhesive you would put around a sink or bathtub. It peels right off if you mess up, but is rock hard if you dont peel it.
First thing to do was to take the LCD apart and have at it with a belt sander and chop off the sides. You can mesure and mark it easily and be sure you mark it when its centered. Next you position it inside the radio trim and put a small dab of super glue or two on both the top and bottom to hold it in the position you want it. Once that is set make sure everything is lined up and use the adhesive on the front and back, the back doesnt have to be perfect because nobody will see if its messy. Once that is dry, sand the edges that will be bondo'd of both the radio trim and the lcd bezel to get a rought surface that the bondo can stick to. Wipe off any excess dust from sanding. Mix the bondo as the instructions say, lots of the grey stuff and a dab of the red stuff. Work fast because the more hardener you put the faster it dries. Its easier to work with bondo with your hands than with anything else and its not like it harms you or sticks to you forever. Make any shape curve you want on the edges and top and bottom and make it as smooth as you can without it drying before your done. Its always easier to put a lot more than you need and sand it than it is to go back and add more. (adding more is something you will have to do anyways.) Just bondo and sand, then bondo the gaps and sand and repeat until you have a decent looking but weirdly colored LCD frame. Use only 200 or lower grit on the bondo because it doesnt need to be perfectly smooth, only take out the gashes and anything deep. After bondo is all done sand with 400 grit and spray the primer. I usually spray and once its tacky spray a second coat. After about 45 min its all dry and you can take the 400 and 600 grit sand paper to it. Repeat as needed to get a smooth surface. After you THINK your done with sanding the primer take a wet paper towel and wipe off the excess dust, the water will make it shiny and easier to see anything you missed. After you are satisfied with the primer stage you can spray the color on. It works best especially if its metallic to spray the trim vertically and let it dry horizontally. I suck at spray painting so I had mine professionally done.
Primered stages:
Picture of tratirhounds install (I hope you dont mind me using this):
A lot of people have been asking for a how-to on custom molding the dscustoms LCD into their dash like I have:
This is what I wrote up for traitorhound in a PM when he asked for help a while ago, I edited it a little and thought I would share it with the board. I really should get pait for all my contributions around here *hint*hint*. (I accept Paypal)
Materials:
-1 small can of bondo
-1 spray can of primer
-1 spray can of silver metallic paint
-1 can of matte clear coat
-Plenty of 200, 400 and 600 grit sand paper
-I bought a spare LED in red to try and match the dash lights but I ended up just removing the LED and bondoing over that hole too.
-adhesive, I used something called e6000 which in form is similar to the rubber adhesive you would put around a sink or bathtub. It peels right off if you mess up, but is rock hard if you dont peel it.
First thing to do was to take the LCD apart and have at it with a belt sander and chop off the sides. You can mesure and mark it easily and be sure you mark it when its centered. Next you position it inside the radio trim and put a small dab of super glue or two on both the top and bottom to hold it in the position you want it. Once that is set make sure everything is lined up and use the adhesive on the front and back, the back doesnt have to be perfect because nobody will see if its messy. Once that is dry, sand the edges that will be bondo'd of both the radio trim and the lcd bezel to get a rought surface that the bondo can stick to. Wipe off any excess dust from sanding. Mix the bondo as the instructions say, lots of the grey stuff and a dab of the red stuff. Work fast because the more hardener you put the faster it dries. Its easier to work with bondo with your hands than with anything else and its not like it harms you or sticks to you forever. Make any shape curve you want on the edges and top and bottom and make it as smooth as you can without it drying before your done. Its always easier to put a lot more than you need and sand it than it is to go back and add more. (adding more is something you will have to do anyways.) Just bondo and sand, then bondo the gaps and sand and repeat until you have a decent looking but weirdly colored LCD frame. Use only 200 or lower grit on the bondo because it doesnt need to be perfectly smooth, only take out the gashes and anything deep. After bondo is all done sand with 400 grit and spray the primer. I usually spray and once its tacky spray a second coat. After about 45 min its all dry and you can take the 400 and 600 grit sand paper to it. Repeat as needed to get a smooth surface. After you THINK your done with sanding the primer take a wet paper towel and wipe off the excess dust, the water will make it shiny and easier to see anything you missed. After you are satisfied with the primer stage you can spray the color on. It works best especially if its metallic to spray the trim vertically and let it dry horizontally. I suck at spray painting so I had mine professionally done.
Primered stages:
Picture of tratirhounds install (I hope you dont mind me using this):
- chris
