HOW TO: S-pipe removal, w/out turbo removal

[thekid]

Bump for reply to this...want to get mine installed too, but was wondering the same thing....

i reused mine, it looked to be in good shape...

 

[MetalSpeed]

hate to revive this from it's slumber but how long was the total install? Is this as hard as putting the AWR rear motor mount on? And what special wrench do you need? Thanks in advance!! I am about to order the S=pipe from MAM and I want to do this as soon as I get the piece in. Maybe I might need some help, to help the process along smoother I am in San Antonio any locals might be interested? I'll but the beer and some pizza.(drinks)

 

[msp35]

It took my old man and I about 6 hrs total. We went slow but did it w/o removing the turbo/mani assembly. I also had to take the thermostat housing off the block to remove the stock S pipe. I don't think it was machined properly?. Also we heated up and bent a box-open combination wrench for the back s-pipe bolt. Soak all the nuts with pb blaster. I used a flathead screwdriver to loosen the nut on the bottom in the middle.

 

[Gbourdon]

I am going to have to do a couple of these this month. I am crossing my fingers.

This should become pretty common with all of the Corksport and MAM pipes being sold right now.

 

[CustomMSP]

I think it's much easier to remove the whole turbo assembly together. I did this twice, once each way, and find that removing the whole assembly is much faster and easier. This also gives you a chance to port out the wastegate port for better flow and boost spike control.

 

[cosmo420]

Thanks bro man! This will prove to be useful when I purchase my s-pipe in the not too distant future, also did you notice the difference in the new one?

 

[MetalSpeed]

I think it's much easier to remove the whole turbo assembly together. I did this twice, once each way, and find that removing the whole assembly is much faster and easier. This also gives you a chance to port out the wastegate port for better flow and boost spike control.

Do you think you can do a quick how to on how to remove the turbo assembly I l would like to the easy way than waste a whole weekend.

 

[CustomMSP]

The tricky part is getting the right 12mm wrench. I had to sand down the walls on the closed end side on mine so it would fit between the exhaust mani runners. Also, you'll want to drain the coolant completely...this also gives you a chance to fill up with fresh new coolant. Remove the radiator by unbolting the top brackets that hold the radiator to the frame. You should be able to leave all the fans and the IC connected together. It should just come out. Once the radiator is out you have all the space you could ever want. Unbolt the spipe from the downpipe from underneath and the bracket that holds the spipe to the block. Undo the oil supply line from the top of turbo and old drain line from underneath the turbo with another allen key. You'll need leverage on that allen key when undoing the bottom drain flange. Remove the purple bracket holding the coolant/oil supply line together with an allen wrench. You'll want to use a power drill or something like that to do that allen screw. Now remove the bolts that hold the mani in place and everthing just comes right out assuming you have all the pipes/intake out.

 

[Paul]

sweet thankx man, i'll be using this for my downpipe from corksport

 

[MetalSpeed]

The tricky part is getting the right 12mm wrench. I had to sand down the walls on mine so it would fit between the exhaust mani runners. Also, you'll want to drain the coolant completely...this also gives you a chance to fill up with fresh new coolant. Remove the radiator by unbolting the top brackets that hold the radiator to the frame. Remove the radiator and you have all the space you could ever want. Unbolt the spipe from the downpipe from underneath. Undo the oil supply line from the turbo. Remove the purple bracket holding the coolant/oil supply line together with an allen wrench. You'll want to use a power drill or something like that to do that allen screw. Now remove the bolts that hold the mani in place and everthing just comes right out assuming you have all the pipes/intake out.

Do you have to do anything special when you put it all back together? Like putting more oil in the turbo etc.? Did You happen to take pics of the removal or installation?

 

[CustomMSP]

Do you have to do anything special when you put it all back together? Like putting more oil in the turbo etc.? Did You happen to take pics of the removal or installation?

Just plug up the hole on the drain line so you won't get any debre in there and make sure to keep the rubber ring that sits between the oil drain line flange and the turbo in a safe place. Sorry no pics.

 

[MetalSpeed]

Cool thanks appreciate all your input. Will a lot of oil spill out when I do this?

 

[CustomMSP]

almost none...it will be dripping a tiny bit out of the feed line.

No problem.

 

[hazeXban]

The tricky part is getting the right 12mm wrench. I had to sand down the walls on the closed end side on mine so it would fit between the exhaust mani runners. Also, you'll want to drain the coolant completely...this also gives you a chance to fill up with fresh new coolant. Remove the radiator by unbolting the top brackets that hold the radiator to the frame. You should be able to leave all the fans and the IC connected together. It should just come out. Once the radiator is out you have all the space you could ever want. Unbolt the spipe from the downpipe from underneath and the bracket that holds the spipe to the block. Undo the oil supply line from the top of turbo and old drain line from underneath the turbo with another allen key. You'll need leverage on that allen key when undoing the bottom drain flange. Remove the purple bracket holding the coolant/oil supply line together with an allen wrench. You'll want to use a power drill or something like that to do that allen screw. Now remove the bolts that hold the mani in place and everthing just comes right out assuming you have all the pipes/intake out.

My Sockets fit between the runners no problem, but on my buddy Jons MSP we needed a 1/4'' Swivel 12MM socket to get at 2 of the bolts.

Good lil Synopsis though CustomMSP(cool)

having done this turbo removal 2 times now, I'd say its really not that hard. I had the exhaust off, the radiator drained and removed, the SMIC out, the fans out, the IC piping off, and the manifold unbolted in about 1 hour and 45 mins. What slows me down is I get very CAUTIOUS when working with the turbo lines so I take my time. Other than that though the job is way not too hard, just a lil tedious.

 

[CustomMSP]

How's your car now that you have the exhaust on??

 

[hazeXban]

Ridiculously fast haha. Sounds amazing.

 

[slug420]

durrr...to remove the turbo or not to remove the turbo.

im deathly afraid of having to drain and refill various fluids and removing the turbo and making sure not to get any debris or anything in it....but i recently went through the hell of replacing the MAF on my truck and I have a feeling getting to the bolts to remove the DP without removing the turbo is going to be very similar.

hmmm

I will be using a hydralic lift while installing....does that make one method more appealing than the other? given that I should have plenty of room under the car and whatnot?

 

[Paul]

w/ a lift it will be easier for sure, but i still think that u'll have to remove something or other. do u plan on doing a turbo manifold?
i'm waiting to order my turbo manifold then install both at 1 time cuz they both require turbo removal and reinstall

 

[slug420]

nope, the dp/exhaust which is what i will be installing now is the extent of my plans.

 

[03BlkMicaSPD]

Then do it without removing all of the crap you do not need to remove. Just unmount the AC and bracket slide it out of the way and its cake. just follow the steps in the how-to