How to retorque the top strut bolt?

[MikeM.]

While off-roading this year I've noticed an occasional loud clunk when my front wheels catch air and the wheel drops all the way down and hangs from the strut. It sounds just like the top bolt holding the strut on needs to be tightened. This never happens while driving normally on pavement, even bumpy pavement, only when the front of the vehicle is airborne. Investigating today, I notice there is a rubber bumper under the large pressed steel plate or "washer" that the top strut nut seats against. It looks like I might need a 17mm box wrench with a 1"-2" offset to tighten the nut while I use an 8mm Allen or hex tool to hold the strut bolt from turning? Or how do I compress that rubber bumper at the top so it won't clunk when the wheel catches air?


I know some of you guys have done this before but a quick search didn't turn it up. When I try to turn the nut with a socket it feels like I will start tearing up the rubber bumper underneath.

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

You may be able to turn it without using a hex (and without it free spinning) when loaded, otherwise you will need both wrenches, and most likely to remove the strut (which honestly is not hard if you have an impact gun for the bottom bolts). My cars at the shop right now, but I'm pretty sure you won't be able to reach it while it's still installed if you need both. It's either 17mm or 14mm. I wouldn't worry about tearing up the rubber, it's pretty durable. I had unbolted the strut towers only when I was trying to install my jbr motor mount, and did some spinning to get them back in, no problem at all (I've also removed the strut/spring twice now). The only thing to be careful with are the three 17mm bolts/nuts holding the strut to the tower; they strip VERY easily, with hand tools even.

 

[fvansan]

My question is, what kind of driving are you doing where the front wheels are off the ground? This is not a jeep and I don't believe it was made for off road experiences.

 

[erhayes]

+1. The CX5 is not made of that kind of service IMO. Ed

 

[dergibog]

+2

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

Simply going over uneven ground on a trail can cause 1 wheel to be up, or coming over the apex of a steep hill off road. Especially with piled mud that have dried in a weird shape (maybe from a truck going through it). I highly doubt he is trying to use his cx-5 as a Jeep, because as far as I know his is mostly stock.

 

[MikeM.]

My question is, what kind of driving are you doing where the front wheels are off the ground? This is not a jeep and I don't believe it was made for off road experiences.

I use it to get where I'm going. I live where there are hundreds of miles of unpaved one lane Forest Service roads to access backcountry skiing, hiking and mountain biking. These roads have very little traffic and the budgets to maintain them have shrunk drastically in the new millennium. There is less traffic on these unpaved roads then there was in the 1980's. The CX-5 is a GREAT car for this but one can't always creep along at 5 mph or you would spend your entire day driving. The front wheels are bound to leave the ground on occasion. And the CX-5 is particularly good at it due to it's lightweight, rigid chassis with long-travel suspension that is relatively firm for absorbing hits without bottoming out and good ground clearance. The AWD is a bonus that has helped me out many times when the ground is uneven and slick with rain and steep.

Previously I've used the following vehicles on these roads (albeit when the roads were (mostly) in better condition):

Subaru Wagon AWD
VW Beetle RWD
VW rabbit FWD
Volvo 144 GL
Nissan Patrol 4x4
Ford F-150 4x4
Suzuki DR650

I must admit, the Suzuki is the best of the bunch but not really fair to compare a motorcycle to a 4 wheeled vehicle, eh?

After that the CX-5 wins. The Nissan Patrol is much more capable when the going gets really rough but the CX-5 wins with it's comfortable ride, nimbleness to avoid pot holes and considerably better fuel economy. These roads can drain your tank fast which is why I suspect there is so little traffic on them in recent years.

No doubt this is hard on ANY vehicle but the CX-5 seems to be taking it in stride. I just have a loose fastener somewhere. This is bound to happen on any first model year car.

 

[MikeM.]

You may be able to turn it without using a hex (and without it free spinning) when loaded, otherwise you will need both wrenches, and most likely to remove the strut (which honestly is not hard if you have an impact gun for the bottom bolts). My cars at the shop right now, but I'm pretty sure you won't be able to reach it while it's still installed if you need both. It's either 17mm or 14mm. I wouldn't worry about tearing up the rubber, it's pretty durable. I had unbolted the strut towers only when I was trying to install my jbr motor mount, and did some spinning to get them back in, no problem at all (I've also removed the strut/spring twice now). The only thing to be careful with are the three 17mm bolts/nuts holding the strut to the tower; they strip VERY easily, with hand tools even.

Thanks for that. So, you're saying I can just tighten the large top/center nut as long as the center threaded part doesn't spin?

I was cautious of doing that because it just feels wrong to torque against rubber, if you know what I mean. Maybe if I spray some rubber safe lube on top of the rubber it will feel better? And the more loaded the suspension, the easier it should go? I can drive the front wheel onto a ramp or something to compress the spring more.

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

Thanks for that. So, you're saying I can just tighten the large top/center nut as long as the center threaded part doesn't spin?

I was cautious of doing that because it just feels wrong to torque against rubber, if you know what I mean. Maybe if I spray some rubber safe lube on top of the rubber it will feel better? And the more loaded the suspension, the easier it should go? I can drive the front wheel onto a ramp or something to compress the spring more.

Yep, as long as the inside doesn't spin you are good. I was able to use the wrench only after a certain number of spins when I was putting my strut back together. I would see about tightening just on level ground, if you put lube it may encourage to spin. I wouldn't be looking to be able to turn it a bunch, maybe one full turn to see if it stops it.

 

[MikeM.]

Yep, as long as the inside doesn't spin you are good. I was able to use the wrench only after a certain number of spins when I was putting my strut back together. I would see about tightening just on level ground, if you put lube it may encourage to spin. I wouldn't be looking to be able to turn it a bunch, maybe one full turn to see if it stops it.

Are you saying you were able to tighten it a certain amount but then the center started rotating and you called it good? I imagine this nut has a torque spec but I've never seen a torque specified for a nut that had the friction of a rubber absorber. I will try lubrication and tightening but, out of curiosity, do you how this is spec'ed or what the approved way to tighten it is? Also, after saying it might tighten without spinning if the wheel was loaded, why do you recommend level ground considering that un-level ground could load the wheel even more?

Ideally I could torque it with the big metal 'washer' sticking tight to the rubber while the nut spun against the big metal 'washer'. Maybe I should grease the interface between the nut and big 'washer' instead of the interface of the big 'washer' and the rubber?

 

[MikeM.]

I wouldn't be looking to be able to turn it a bunch, maybe one full turn to see if it stops it.

I will add this:

The clunk I've been hearing sounds like it would take at least two-three full turns to fix.

 

[tibimakai]

You don't have by any chance, a broken spring?

 

[MikeM.]

You don't have by any chance, a broken spring?

I'll give a quick look next time I work on it but it doesn't sound like a broken spring.

 

[mazdadude]

For what it is worth, the sway bar bushings can make the identical sound as a loose strut mount...

A loose strut bolt has a tendency to feel more in the steering wheel, a bad sway bar bushing is felt more in the floorboard.

 

[jomar23CX5]

To retorque the top bolt and prevent the shaft from moving, you should use a vice grip, clamp the rod of the strut with a vice grip to prevent it from spinning and torque it to the proper spec

 

[MikeM.]

To retorque the top bolt and prevent the shaft from moving, you should use a vice grip, clamp the rod of the strut with a vice grip to prevent it from spinning and torque it to the proper spec

I don't have a shop manual. Anyone know the torque spec?

 

[MikeM.]

To retorque the top bolt and prevent the shaft from moving, you should use a vice grip, clamp the rod of the strut with a vice grip to prevent it from spinning and torque it to the proper spec

The rod of the strut (on top) gets covered up by the deep socket I have to tighten the nut.

What am I missing?

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

The rod of the strut (on top) gets covered up by the deep socket I have to tighten the nut.

What am I missing?

then you will have to remove the strut off the car.

 

[piotrek91]

The rod of the strut (on top) gets covered up by the deep socket I have to tighten the nut.

What am I missing?

This is from the service manual.
They show an SST (special service tool) for holding that nut. You can find the manual for download in PDF format in the HOW-TO section. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123825111-Full-Service-Manuals-PDF

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

Eh, too bad no one lives near each other. There are a couple of guys on m3r that get together when they have issues like this. Oh well.