Guide How To Remove/Install Tranny and LSD or Disassemble Gears

I would think the same thing as far as labor goes, but some of those guys will **** you and charge for two jobs. The clutch, while everything is out anyway, should only be another 30-45 minute job.
I used exactly 3 qts and it was right at the bottom of the fill hole.

Edit: That stage I should be killer! Anybody else have this or stage II clutch and use it as a daily?
 
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just 3 huh. ok i did have 4 in my cart. so ima get rid of one.

$450 for the labor. sheesh. i hope its not that bad for the clutch. hell, i will go down there and do it myself i was allowed. "sarcasm" but for insurance reasons, you not allowed.

i don't want to go over $1000 in labor alone. im going to tell them that. if its more than $1000, cut me a break.
 
depends on the mechanic. stuff like clutch/flywheel, and motor mounts, nick didn't charge me for, since the tranny and motor were out already
 
smo0f said:
depends on the mechanic. stuff like clutch/flywheel, and motor mounts, nick didn't charge me for, since the tranny and motor were out already
Click to expand...
wow. thats a deal.

i will let him know. i'm not stupid, i'm actually a technician myself. i would do it myself but i don't have the right tools for the job. can't afford them.

it would make sense not to charge me labor for tranny removal when its already out. he should only charge me for clutch installation. which i would hope to believe half or a quarter of the labor charge.

also. he's telling me that it could be many many things wrong. not the lsd. i told him that my kind of car is notorious for this and from the people i've heard and spoken to "u guys" it is the lsd because my gears grab, just there is no power to my wheels, hence it being the lsd. i've seen many threads of lsd being blown. i have the same symptoms.

but he needs to check himself. o well. i know he's going to tell me its the lsd.

edit: 1000 post! woot!!!
 
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Same thing with mine. I told everybody it was the LSD and they asked, "how do you know?" I said, I just do, from this forum. :)
Congrats on your 1000 posts (*****) ;) j/k
Just make sure he understands that you know what the hell ur talking about and there is no reason to charge a bunch more just to do the clutch while everything is out anyway.
 
Ha guess what? Before the car was being taken apart, he was saying all this stuff about it may not be the differential and what not. All of a sudden I call him today and he goes... uh, so when are you expecting that lsd in? PWNED!

He said he's not going to double charge me on labor for the clutch. So I'm happy about that. Just for the install.
 
Did my tranny this weekend with new welded LSD and a few other parts along with my clutch.


I'm popping out of 5th gear!!!
The only part of the re-assembly that I left to my buddy and did not verify with a drawing(argh) (argh) (argh)

But now looking through drawings I see the Collar part that the 5th/reverse shift fork moves is flipped with the chamfered edge facing opposite each other. These are the two drawings that show different orientation.

Anyone with helpful information will be greatly appreciated!!!
 

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The pic on the left is a 2003.5 msp trans.
The pic on the right is a pre-2003 trans.

Mazda updated the top-side of the transmission with a different set-up.
 
The gear selector ring was in backwards. In the pic above showing the parts in order the selector ring is backwards also! Runs like a champ now!
Knock on wood!!!
 
Is it possible to strip the part on the tranny that slides into the middle of where the clutch is? I'm thinking this is the driveshaft.. I've tried to line it up, but cannot tell if it is in or not.. and I don't want to tighten it if it has to lock in the grooves of each one. It has been close enough to where it is about a 1/2" around and I could have put the bolts in to hold it, then move it some more to make sure it was in there..

TurfBurn said:
To put the tranny in the car you will have to very carefully work to get it up and over the driveshaft and the passenger side half shaft without damaing the oil seal on the differential casing. I used a rag to help out on that a little bit. After a lot of fiddling around and grunting you'll probably get it in place. It will not seat all the way up to the engine though more likely that not. Both times that I worked on this I could not get the half shaft to seat easily and had trouble with the driveshaft as well making it quite difficult. What i did was get it as close as possible and then used the 19mm bolt on the back side by the rear engine mount and the 19mm bolt on the front side by the front engine mount. I threaded them both in a little bit and progressively tightened them down until the tranny seated. Do this carefully so that you do not pinch, bend, or break anything.

After you get the tranny seated, just put all your bolts back in and parts back on in the reverse order.

Fill the tranny up through the front fill location which is a 23mm bolt as well. Make sure you do it with the car on the ground and level. Fill it up until a little drips out the hole and you should be all set. It took about 3 quarts even for me.

Good luck with your install!

Steve
Click to expand...
 
by the time you get it to within a half inch of seated you are probably already in the splines. I have not had any problems ever with them stripping or getting damaged. usually that last half inch is fighting the pilot bearing if you are misalinged and the alignment sleeves on the block. If you get it so you can get the big 19mm bolts in you can carefully work it to try to seat it and then little by little seat it down with those bolts keeping the gap even all the way around. That has usually worked well for me in the past on the ones I have done.

If something feels like it is binding up and is not a consistent pressure or you feel seems excessive, then back it off and try to reseat things.

Hope that helps.

later,

Steve
 
I had the same problem my first time around...
I really didn't want to damage the splines.
 
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