garretts77
Member
- :
- 2007 WRX VF39'd
Ok, this is my instructions on how to install a Racing Beat rear sway bar on a Protege5 or ES (assuming that the ES is the same as a P5). This may also work on other 3rd gen models, but I could not say for sure. This how to: is for installation using AWR's mounting brackets, not the MSP rear subframe. Mods feel free to move this to the How To section if you so desire.
First things first. What you will need:
Racing beat rear sway bar
AWR brackets
AWR Poly bushings (the ones that Tony at AWR sent to me were 19mm)
Socket wrench and 14mm socket
Lithium grease
Mountain Dew Live Wire cause it's tasty...
Not pictured: 14mm box wrench, 5mm (I think) allen wrench
Will also need new endlinks, either MP3/MSP should work, or some adjustables like AWR will work. The P5 endlinks are too short. See bottom of post for more info.
Step one: Remove lower end link bolt from factory sway bar. This is using the 14mm socket wrench. The first one came off rather easily. The second one was a bit tougher. I found that I was able to spin the nut, but the whole bolt was spinning with it. This is when you will need the 5mm allen wrench and 14mm box wrench. The bolt has a hole in it for an allen wrench. Hold the bolt in place and turn the nut. Then slide from the factory sway bar.
Step two: Remove the factory brackets from the rear subframe. There are two brackets. Each one has a nut and a bolt. These are 14mm as well. Remove both brackets.
Step three: You are now finished with the removal process. Easy huh? Pull out the factory rear sway and set aside. You are going to use the horseshoe brackets from this bar.
Step four: Install AWR brackets. The new bracket will fit over the bolt that was left in the subframe. Tighten the nut and bolt that you removed back on the subframe.
Step five: Lube up the poly bushings. I used a crap load. It may possibly be too much, but I figured it was better than not enough. I lubed both the bushings and the bar.
Step six: The horseshoe brackets that wrapped your stock bushings are re-used over the newer (and bigger) poly bushings. The 19mm bushings do not fit exactly as they probably should due to the fact the bar is a 20mm bar. The Mazda bushings may fit better, but I used what Tony suggested. We will see how they hold up. Anyways fit the horseshoe brackets over the poly bushings and slide back under the car. The horseshoe brackets will line up with the holes in the AWR bracket. Secure them with the 4 bolts provided with the AWR brackets.
Step seven: Re-connect the end link to their new home. Use the allen wrench and box wrench if necessary.
Viola! You are finished. I have never done this mod before today, and from start to finish, including the time it took to take pictures took me about 45 minutes. And that was taking my time. It was very simple to do. Once you get under there, it is very obvious what needs to happen. Here is the finished product.
A couple of things to note: The Mazda bushings may fit the bar better. In fact I am sure that they would, however I do not know if they would perform better or worse than the polyurethane AWR bushings. I also do not know if they would fit in the stock horseshoe brackets. You might need to upgrade to the MP3/MSP horseshoe brackets, but I do not know for sure.
Also the end links do seem a bit weak once you get under there and look at them. They are supposed to work fine, but the AWR end links would make a fine upgrade I am sure.
That is it. If anybody else has done this mod and sees something blatantly wrong with what I posted here, let me know. The car handles fantastically! I did a little Indy car style tire warm up swerving down my street ant it felt like a slot car. Very little body roll. And the cloverleaf on-ramp to the freeway was no match for the RB bar. Good times!
Update(June 14,2004) <-- see update on post 14
Update(December 09,2004) <-- Problems were encountered while using the factory P5 endlinks. They are too short and cause the bar to rotate 180 degrees towards the front of the car. This has happened to a few people. Longer endlinks are needed. I assume that the factory MP3/MSP endlinks would be fine, but I used the AWR endlinks since the cost is about the same from the dealer. I adjusted them so that they are slightly down (5-10 degrees) from parallel to the ground. I have been driving on these for a while and it is great. I added this info later in the thread, but forgot to put it here.
Enjoy!
First things first. What you will need:
Racing beat rear sway bar
AWR brackets
AWR Poly bushings (the ones that Tony at AWR sent to me were 19mm)
Socket wrench and 14mm socket
Lithium grease
Mountain Dew Live Wire cause it's tasty...
Not pictured: 14mm box wrench, 5mm (I think) allen wrench
Will also need new endlinks, either MP3/MSP should work, or some adjustables like AWR will work. The P5 endlinks are too short. See bottom of post for more info.
Step one: Remove lower end link bolt from factory sway bar. This is using the 14mm socket wrench. The first one came off rather easily. The second one was a bit tougher. I found that I was able to spin the nut, but the whole bolt was spinning with it. This is when you will need the 5mm allen wrench and 14mm box wrench. The bolt has a hole in it for an allen wrench. Hold the bolt in place and turn the nut. Then slide from the factory sway bar.
Step two: Remove the factory brackets from the rear subframe. There are two brackets. Each one has a nut and a bolt. These are 14mm as well. Remove both brackets.
Step three: You are now finished with the removal process. Easy huh? Pull out the factory rear sway and set aside. You are going to use the horseshoe brackets from this bar.
Step four: Install AWR brackets. The new bracket will fit over the bolt that was left in the subframe. Tighten the nut and bolt that you removed back on the subframe.
Step five: Lube up the poly bushings. I used a crap load. It may possibly be too much, but I figured it was better than not enough. I lubed both the bushings and the bar.
Step six: The horseshoe brackets that wrapped your stock bushings are re-used over the newer (and bigger) poly bushings. The 19mm bushings do not fit exactly as they probably should due to the fact the bar is a 20mm bar. The Mazda bushings may fit better, but I used what Tony suggested. We will see how they hold up. Anyways fit the horseshoe brackets over the poly bushings and slide back under the car. The horseshoe brackets will line up with the holes in the AWR bracket. Secure them with the 4 bolts provided with the AWR brackets.
Step seven: Re-connect the end link to their new home. Use the allen wrench and box wrench if necessary.
Viola! You are finished. I have never done this mod before today, and from start to finish, including the time it took to take pictures took me about 45 minutes. And that was taking my time. It was very simple to do. Once you get under there, it is very obvious what needs to happen. Here is the finished product.
A couple of things to note: The Mazda bushings may fit the bar better. In fact I am sure that they would, however I do not know if they would perform better or worse than the polyurethane AWR bushings. I also do not know if they would fit in the stock horseshoe brackets. You might need to upgrade to the MP3/MSP horseshoe brackets, but I do not know for sure.
Also the end links do seem a bit weak once you get under there and look at them. They are supposed to work fine, but the AWR end links would make a fine upgrade I am sure.
That is it. If anybody else has done this mod and sees something blatantly wrong with what I posted here, let me know. The car handles fantastically! I did a little Indy car style tire warm up swerving down my street ant it felt like a slot car. Very little body roll. And the cloverleaf on-ramp to the freeway was no match for the RB bar. Good times!
Update(June 14,2004) <-- see update on post 14
Update(December 09,2004) <-- Problems were encountered while using the factory P5 endlinks. They are too short and cause the bar to rotate 180 degrees towards the front of the car. This has happened to a few people. Longer endlinks are needed. I assume that the factory MP3/MSP endlinks would be fine, but I used the AWR endlinks since the cost is about the same from the dealer. I adjusted them so that they are slightly down (5-10 degrees) from parallel to the ground. I have been driving on these for a while and it is great. I added this info later in the thread, but forgot to put it here.
Enjoy!
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