Well i just pulled 12 gauge into the rear doors and it was a snap. The pic below shows where i pulled the wire through the plug. Basically its right on top rather than through the small holes. The only problem with this way is that the rubber cover doesn't quite fit flush to the car. I haven't figured out how to remedy this yet, maybe seal it up with some silicone? I used Crankin Cable (I think that's what it's called) and it is some heavy duty s*** - makes Monster look like dental floss or something!
How to pull Front door speaker wire...
- Thread starter Poseur
- Start date
When I did this, instead of "cutting" the brackets or drilling into them, I was able to "puncture" the little holes where the wire goes with a small screwdriver.
I simply went larger and larger until the hole was large enough to run the wire through.
I didn't have any great tools sitting around, so this was my quick fix.
I simply went larger and larger until the hole was large enough to run the wire through.
I didn't have any great tools sitting around, so this was my quick fix.
I just ran my wires using this how-to, and it worked out just fine. I did the dremel thing with a drill bit, and my biggest fear was my fingers in the tight spots, but they're all accounted for.
Thanks for this how-to, greatly simplified my set up.
Thanks for this how-to, greatly simplified my set up.
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- 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3
Just pulled the wires this weekend and it wasn't bad, took me about 2 hours for both doors. There were a couple more things that would help a lot if you took them off. One is the pin that holds the door-return thingy, it can simply be popped out by hammering unneath it, using moderate force. The door will open about 5-8 more degrees, which helps a lot giving the space is so tight. See attached photo.
Also, the panel to the very left of the dash can also be removed by inserting a flat screwdriver and pry it out, (shown at the right side of the photo) giving you acess inside the dash to help wiggle the wires or push the molex out.
Also, the panel to the very left of the dash can also be removed by inserting a flat screwdriver and pry it out, (shown at the right side of the photo) giving you acess inside the dash to help wiggle the wires or push the molex out.
Attachments
- :
- 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3
Poseur said:
Good point, it was actually ok for me, the door was wide open and not touching anything...but should still be careful.
Silver Streaker
Member
- :
- protege5
hey, i got a question for y'all. why in the world are all the pictures all x'ed out?! its driven me crazy cuz i've got an install comin up pretty soon. i need to see how this is done!
Alright, so I don't know howlong those pics have been down, but I've had a couple of requests. Had to go pull 'em out of an old harddrive, but they should all be good and reliably hosted now. Please let me know if they go down again, I've got them readily backedup now.
Just did this for the second time this year. Johhny two times all over again. First time took 2 hours, 2nd time took about 15 min.
Huge gains due to -
door pin, take it off. My door also didn't hit anything but I took my molding off a while ago. watch it when the pin comes loose it will shoot about 7 feet in the air. learned the hard way. You have plenty of time to be prepared takes quite a few wacks before then.
clipzilla - once you get the clip loose, i took the rubber surrounding off it first. anyway pull that sucker all the way out and turn it towards you and it will come out even further. helps to get to the green clip. use a tiny flathead and release the door side tab on the green thing before you try and pull it up. It comes way up and doesn't come out so you can pull it up pretty far until you can tell it won't go any further.
grommet on the other end - take it out of the door and make sure the rubber slides up and down and a coat hanger works like a charm. i just bent the end into a ring with some pliers and taped my wire below that and it was all good.
if you got questions lemme know. I speak joe schmoe.
Huge gains due to -
door pin, take it off. My door also didn't hit anything but I took my molding off a while ago. watch it when the pin comes loose it will shoot about 7 feet in the air. learned the hard way. You have plenty of time to be prepared takes quite a few wacks before then.
clipzilla - once you get the clip loose, i took the rubber surrounding off it first. anyway pull that sucker all the way out and turn it towards you and it will come out even further. helps to get to the green clip. use a tiny flathead and release the door side tab on the green thing before you try and pull it up. It comes way up and doesn't come out so you can pull it up pretty far until you can tell it won't go any further.
grommet on the other end - take it out of the door and make sure the rubber slides up and down and a coat hanger works like a charm. i just bent the end into a ring with some pliers and taped my wire below that and it was all good.
if you got questions lemme know. I speak joe schmoe.
Okay, sorry kids, the pics have been up and down. THis site only hosts them for so long, which kinda bugged me since this is somethgin that will never lose it's usefulness, but I've got a fairly reliable host now, so assuming it doesnt get swamped, photobucket should have us covered.
KMac
Zoomin' since 2003
- :
- Mazda Protege5, 02
Hey this was perfect, installed 14g wire with no problem. And as long as you are careful you can pull the pin for the door and swing it farther open which helps a ton when using the dremel on the open spots on the connector for the body side. Thanks for doing this.
This tutorial is great but i've ran into a little problem. After spending an hour and a half just trying to get one molex plug undone via the 4 pins and failing, i locked the car up, went back inside with raw and slightly bloody fingertips.
The top 2 pins push in fine and it comes apart but the bottom pin closest to me is slightly shorter and doesn't stick out ad much as the rest. This has been making things extremely difficult.
Any suggestions?
The top 2 pins push in fine and it comes apart but the bottom pin closest to me is slightly shorter and doesn't stick out ad much as the rest. This has been making things extremely difficult.
Any suggestions?
