How To: MP3/P5/MSP Front & rear Pad/Rotor Change (No 56K)

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

Chaps: you probably arent going to find anything in stock, most auto parts stores have an overnight option that wont cost youmuch more if at all anything. They had to order all the parts for mine from dallas and they came in the next day.

JoJo: I dont know if this is the same on the speed 3 because i havent encountered one yet, but most disc brake setups are the same so this should still mostly apply.

 

[chapsme]

Just an update... it seems the previous owner, a sales guy at Mazda upgraded the wheels with 2003 equipment. Autozone had the right parts, they were just listed for an 03 Protege.

 

[poundNP5owner]

Listen you guys are studs who did this in a short time. This is by far the hardest car(p5) to change brakes in that I have ever dealt with including old school drum brakes. That hidden allenhead bolt in the rear is straight up retarded.

I wanted to add something to the rear brakes that I didn't see mentioned here, might be specific to the wagons.

After you loosen the 10mm bolt/slide for the caliper you won't be able to open it all the way to switch out the pads because the parking brake line and brake line will not let you open it all the way. You have to remove the bolt holding the parking brake line, which is right next to the HIDDEN allenhead bolt. Then you need to go to your brake line follow it to the frame holder of the line. It's held on their with a horseshoe clip, with a flat screw driver and hammer just tap the horseshoe clip off. This will give you enough line to move the caliper all the way.

These job took me freaking hours because it was all new to me, but this thread was great in helping me figure it out. Kudos to TXmazda speeder and everyone else who takes the time to make HOW to's.

 

[clicknext]

Question, how did you guys remove the caliper mounting bolts? My ratchet/stocket is too big and won't fit, it's hitting an adjacent bolt on the side.

 

[worldglider]

poundNP5owner, you said it! I spent nearly $50 in quarters for the cuss jar and the dog left the garage multiple times for fear of his life. I have placed an even more evil curse on the !@cker that stole my 94 Civic Si as that car never gave me the problems this MP5 came to me with.

Point is I didn't raise this MP5 and the previous owner's maintenance is questionable at best. So now I deal with six years of rusted and seized bolts that you deal with on every car of a certain age.

TX, thanks for the shot of the M-Clips. During my spat of rage there was no way I was going to keep one side together to see how to put it back together. I won't say where they are now, but I'll have those little buggers back proper tomorrow.

I contemplate the DYI of the rear breaks. Filing down bolts to make bolts again isn't as fun as it sounded years ago. At what cost will inner peace be worth? The cuss jar alone is an hour's worth of work at the local garage.

Painting was fun though, therapeutic really. I got a small PAIL of caliper paint from AutoZone that comes with a brush. Just brush on as much as you want and all that ugly rust (I wired brushed first of course) is covered up. You'll be able to cover everything anyone will ever see and no one will be the wiser you have a hidden screw behind a screw on the dark side of the caliper!

 

[clicknext]

Another question.... did anyone find that on the outside pad, the little metal tab that sticks out prevents the pad from fitting into the caliper? The oem mazda pads didn't have that on that particular side.

I've got the posi quiet ceramic pads, but my previous aftermarket pads were the same, and I cut the tab off.

Just wondering what you guys did with those.

 

[worldglider]

The pads that came off my MP5 (just got it from used car dealer) had what you describe with the tab only on one pad. My aftermarket ones had the tab on both pads but they fit just fine for me. What did happen is the tab shifted (probably in my fit of rage) on one and caused the metal glider to push into the rotor. SCREECH!!! Fixed that right quick like.

 

[worldglider]

See my previous post on fit of rage, but essentially I took a hammer to a socket and off they came after soaking the bolts for about an hour in WD-40. In fact, the hammer was the best tool I used all day! Yep, the bolts will round a bit and I've got to take a file to the rear caliper bolts on my next try, in order to make a bolt a bolt. Try cussing!

Still contemplating the shop down the street doing the dirty deed for the rear breaks. The LR come off fine but the RR is possibly not a DIY street job.

 

[GIJana]

What happens if you let the caliper hang from the break line.

 

[meGrimlock]

What happens if you let the caliper hang from the break line.

maybe nothing, maybe the brake line cant support the weight of the caliper and you have brake fluid all over you. i'd play it safe

 

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

yeah considering how easy it is to supprot the brake caliper, risking having to replace one of more extra parts you didnt intend on buying just seems kind of dumb.

 

[dkarthik]

Rotor wont come off

Hi everyone,
I tried to replace my rotors and pads today on my 01 protege LX 2.0 and the rotor just would not come off... (uhm) I tried everything WD 40 sprayed all over, tapping it with a mallet, Just did not budge.... any suggestions?... im really desperate here, need the car running by Monday to go to school.
Thanks in advance
Dushyant

 

[Pmpkinhead]

What about leaving the lugnuts a little loose and letting the tire hit the ground slowly (with the jack) or worse case actually move slowly back and forth (push or under engine power) with the same condition and all the wheels on the ground.

367 (mp3yellow

 

[meGrimlock]

Hi everyone,
I tried to replace my rotors and pads today on my 01 protege LX 2.0 and the rotor just would not come off... (uhm) I tried everything WD 40 sprayed all over, tapping it with a mallet, Just did not budge.... any suggestions?... im really desperate here, need the car running by Monday to go to school.
Thanks in advance
Dushyant

use the bolt holding the scissor jack in the boot in place. it should be a brass bolt with a T handle. turn the bolt into the extra hole clockwise until you hear the rotor make a "ping" noise as it breaks loose.
-meGrimlock

 

[dkarthik]

Rotor STILL wont come off

use the bolt holding the scissor jack in the boot in place. it should be a brass bolt with a T handle. turn the bolt into the extra hole clockwise until you hear the rotor make a "ping" noise as it breaks loose.
-meGrimlock

I dont have any extra holes in the rotor!... (scratch)

Ill try somethin tonight... If it don't come off today, To the stealership it is... (bang)

Thanks guys

 

[meGrimlock]

I dont have any extra holes in the rotor!... (scratch)

Ill try somethin tonight... If it don't come off today, To the stealership it is... (bang)

Thanks guys

i've never tried it, but PB blaster is supposed to be good
-meGrimlock

 

[Pmpkinhead]

I just finished replacing my front pads and hardware (oem kit) and I have a lingering question in my mind. Does the "worn pad squealer" go on the inside or outside pad? I placed them with the inside pads.

I have 82,000 miles and I had "even" front brake pad wear, both rotors look pretty good too. The excessive amount of brake pad grease I apply is paying off I guess.


367 (mp3yellow

 

[Madmot]

If my memory is right, the squealer goes on the piston side (inside). Yeah grease is all we need there...

 

[Pmpkinhead]

If my memory is right, the squealer goes on the piston side (inside). Yeah grease is all we need there...

Excellent! (ughdance)

 

[CTpro5]

just finished installing the brake pads on the front and try to run the car without the wheels and i hear the pads rubbing on the rotor is that normal?