I did that, actually first I did it from a ground bolt to see if the unit will power on and it did, then I hard wired it to the ebrake. but the thing is, if you release the brake the unit shuts off like it's suppose to so I know it's definately grounding. I know the 12v constant is getting power, cuz with the key out I metered it and sure enough 12.63vdc. So that's why I'm guessing it has something to do the either the acc or ign wire.??
How-To install a turbo timer * Write up *
- Thread starter mazdaspeedjay
- Start date
NiteRunner
Member
- :
- MazdaSpeed3 GT
Yeah, I thought that too, but I expect to save the additional 30$ pretty fast by cutting down all that extra idling time, plus the extra logic will add cool down if I've been running harder. We all paid an extra 4K for this turbo, no reason to cheap out now right.
mazdasp33d
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 3
if followed right will my doors still lock if install a apexi tt?
nighthawk358
Member
- :
- 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3
ignition wires
e-brake sensor
Finished product
Now im confused, in the instructions that mazdaspeedjay made it says that the Green with yellow striped wire is used for Ignition On and in this picture it says that its used for ACC. Also the yellow wire in the instructions says that is used for the ACC and the picture says its used for the Ignition On. Can someone tell what is the wire im supposed to splice cuz im confused and dont want to **** up my install. thanks
Not to cross post guys but here for you Apexi guys:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123721643
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123721643
I got mine from Autozone. I think it was about $5 to 4 taps (4 clamps and 4 spades). You just use pliers to snap them down, crimp the wire onto the spade, and insert the spade (it locks in place). Tah-dah..... hope this helps! This was a SUPER CLEAN install!!
i followed this picture and i sed the HKS turbo timer special edition type 1 and followed this picture actually the wires where the exact colors. but just in case they arent
if you follow this picture you can see that the green (12v ignition) is connected to green/yellow tracer wire. the red (12v constant) is connected to the black/red tracer. and blue/red tracer (12v acc) connected to solid yellow . now the gray one for the hand brake connect to a black /green wire single wire on the outside of the hand brake toward the bottom of it. just splice into it and it will work this is what i did, along with dont forget the ground and it will all work. now if we can only get the colors to tap into for the rest of the features like the RPM and SPEDOMETER.
(Blitz DTT DC install)
Well, after 6 hours, I was able to finally get my year old TT installed. Yes, as you can tell by the pictures, I'm a procrastinator and I really need to clean my MS3 ...
Jay's write up is solid and I tested the wires to be correct as stated before ('08 here as well)
Black/Reds strip = 12v constant
Green/Yellow stripe = Ignition wire
Yellow = ACC wire
Also to add, these wires are all 12 gauge wire on the car where the Blitz had a 12 gauge 12v red, but the other 2 where 14 gauge. You can use the 10-12 Gauge splicer clams on this smaller wire and still get a solid contact.
So to clear up some things that stumped me. The Hood release should be the 3rd or 4th thing you take off.
1st = driver door skid plate (just pull it off .. it's just plastic pop clip things)
2nd = bottom left panel next to your clutch (you will see a pull out clip right above the foot rest skid plate
3rd = the hood release (just push that button while you pull it towards the driver seat .. that's how it comes out.. not straight down like I tried to do)
Next is the panel below the steering column. The one screw that holds it in (that was covered by the hood release) will now be visible. Just take that out and start pop'n it off.
Then the steering column. The top of the steering column just pop's up (I took a flat head and pop'd it up in front of the key insert.
The bottom column has 3 screws holding it in place. 2 of which you can see and the 3rd is visible after you take that panel off below the steering column.
Here are some pics of my install and hopes this clears up some confusion that others might be having as I did.
Also to add, to get the center console out,
step 1 = unscrew your shift knob
step 2 = pop out the cup holder (they are just attached by plastic clamps and it comes straight up, start by pulling on the end closest to the E-break
step 3 = pull off the shift cover in the same manner
step 4 = unscrew the 2 screws holding the ash tray / lighter assembly in. Pull this out, there is a plastic bracket that hold the upper right corner and I had to pry on this for about 3min before mine actually came undone. After it's out .. just lay to the side, I didn't bother undoing the wires and it has enough slack in it (after the console is out) to be out of the way.
Now you should see the 2 (4 in total)8mm screws holding the console in up front. There are 2 more in the holder at the back(they are in the bottom of that bottemless holder where your aux plug in is.). Once these are undone you can just pull this whole thing out. Don't forget to unbuckle the lighter cable from the harness.
Here are the pics... Yes, it's dirty in there...
Here is all the panels off as a whole.
Here is that stupid hood latch .. this is just to show you how that clip works.
Bottom panel and steering column off. Don't worry the top of the column is attached with some rubber. So it kinda just hangs there in limbo and will totally get on your nerves as you take the harness in and out of the key switch.
Here is the shot of the E-brake. The wire is on the side of the passenger seat, and I actually unscrewed the one screw that was holding that switch in place to get my splice clamp on correctly. 18 or 20 gauge I think.. it's small.
This is the ground I used which is on the left side if seated in the driver side seat.
Harness splice in. My volt meter showed the Red and Black/Red stripe(the wire I use here) to be constant 12v. Yellow showed 12v when key was moved to ACC position. Green/Yellow stripe showed 12v when key was moved to ON position.
Finished .. finally.
I actually mounted my TT box behind the steering column and attached it to the top of the floor vent with 2 sided tape.
Just to add, I can lock my doors with my keyless entry while this is running as well.
I did not hook up the vacuum line though. I need to get a boost gauge anyways and wouldn't feel like moving the line again.
Again I hope this helps anyone that might be having the same difficulty with the panels and that stupid center console as I was. And the wire confusion ('08 sport model).
Well, after 6 hours, I was able to finally get my year old TT installed. Yes, as you can tell by the pictures, I'm a procrastinator and I really need to clean my MS3 ...
Jay's write up is solid and I tested the wires to be correct as stated before ('08 here as well)
Black/Reds strip = 12v constant
Green/Yellow stripe = Ignition wire
Yellow = ACC wire
Also to add, these wires are all 12 gauge wire on the car where the Blitz had a 12 gauge 12v red, but the other 2 where 14 gauge. You can use the 10-12 Gauge splicer clams on this smaller wire and still get a solid contact.
So to clear up some things that stumped me. The Hood release should be the 3rd or 4th thing you take off.
1st = driver door skid plate (just pull it off .. it's just plastic pop clip things)
2nd = bottom left panel next to your clutch (you will see a pull out clip right above the foot rest skid plate
3rd = the hood release (just push that button while you pull it towards the driver seat .. that's how it comes out.. not straight down like I tried to do)
Next is the panel below the steering column. The one screw that holds it in (that was covered by the hood release) will now be visible. Just take that out and start pop'n it off.
Then the steering column. The top of the steering column just pop's up (I took a flat head and pop'd it up in front of the key insert.
The bottom column has 3 screws holding it in place. 2 of which you can see and the 3rd is visible after you take that panel off below the steering column.
Here are some pics of my install and hopes this clears up some confusion that others might be having as I did.
Also to add, to get the center console out,
step 1 = unscrew your shift knob
step 2 = pop out the cup holder (they are just attached by plastic clamps and it comes straight up, start by pulling on the end closest to the E-break
step 3 = pull off the shift cover in the same manner
step 4 = unscrew the 2 screws holding the ash tray / lighter assembly in. Pull this out, there is a plastic bracket that hold the upper right corner and I had to pry on this for about 3min before mine actually came undone. After it's out .. just lay to the side, I didn't bother undoing the wires and it has enough slack in it (after the console is out) to be out of the way.
Now you should see the 2 (4 in total)8mm screws holding the console in up front. There are 2 more in the holder at the back(they are in the bottom of that bottemless holder where your aux plug in is.). Once these are undone you can just pull this whole thing out. Don't forget to unbuckle the lighter cable from the harness.
Here are the pics... Yes, it's dirty in there...
Here is all the panels off as a whole.
Here is that stupid hood latch .. this is just to show you how that clip works.
Bottom panel and steering column off. Don't worry the top of the column is attached with some rubber. So it kinda just hangs there in limbo and will totally get on your nerves as you take the harness in and out of the key switch.
Here is the shot of the E-brake. The wire is on the side of the passenger seat, and I actually unscrewed the one screw that was holding that switch in place to get my splice clamp on correctly. 18 or 20 gauge I think.. it's small.
This is the ground I used which is on the left side if seated in the driver side seat.
Harness splice in. My volt meter showed the Red and Black/Red stripe(the wire I use here) to be constant 12v. Yellow showed 12v when key was moved to ACC position. Green/Yellow stripe showed 12v when key was moved to ON position.
Finished .. finally.
I actually mounted my TT box behind the steering column and attached it to the top of the floor vent with 2 sided tape.
Just to add, I can lock my doors with my keyless entry while this is running as well.
I did not hook up the vacuum line though. I need to get a boost gauge anyways and wouldn't feel like moving the line again.
Again I hope this helps anyone that might be having the same difficulty with the panels and that stupid center console as I was. And the wire confusion ('08 sport model).
holy s*** man... good job on the install and all but damn!! that's a lot of time... Maybe I'm in the minority but I don't really mind sitting in my car for the 1-2 minutes. I usually just catch up on emails, call someone or... space out. I used to be one of those types that was always in a rush to get somewhere. Those are the people that need this sort of thing the most imo. Nowadays... lol I just leave a couple minutes earlier.
Eh, it was kinda one of those "Can I actually do this?" moments.
This was the first time I've ever done anything on a car, well besides the Cobb cold air intake. Probably why it took me 5 or more hours. Not including the four trips to auto zone and radio shack. Being that I've never worked on cars before, this really helped with "am I doing to muck something up" fear.
This was the first time I've ever done anything on a car, well besides the Cobb cold air intake. Probably why it took me 5 or more hours. Not including the four trips to auto zone and radio shack. Being that I've never worked on cars before, this really helped with "am I doing to muck something up" fear.
guitarsoloist87
Member
- :
- 2007 Mazdaspeed 3
I just installed a greddy turbo timer on my 07 speed 3. I put the red with black/red, green with green/yellow, and blue with the yellow. It works fine but my check engine light is on now. Is that normal? Because it turned on after I got some lines tapped into for my subs but then it went away early that day. I gotta know I'm freaking out I bought the speed yesterday and I put the turbo timer on today lol ahhh freaking cel light! Help me please.
Chech this thread http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123733642
