How to improve CX-5 handling on corners?

Hello there, wondering if y’all have any info/recommendations on how to improve a 2022 cx5 handling, specifically on corners.

Was thinking of lowering it 1.5” and/or adding 1” -2” spacers to the wheels for a wider stance.

Thoughts?

Thanks y’all
 
Hello there, wondering if y’all have any info/recommendations on how to improve a 2022 cx5 handling, specifically on corners.

Was thinking of lowering it 1.5” and/or adding 1” -2” spacers to the wheels for a wider stance.

Thoughts?

Thanks y’all
The CX-5 is the jack of all trades but master of none(well except for safety. It balances everything. If you want complete offroad get a Jeep, comfortable ride- a lincoln, cornering get a miata.

Others had great suggestions but like they said, it will make your ride- greatly uncomfortable. Definitely not for a daily driver. Any coworkers, friends, family that was in my CX-5 with 19's complained about the bumpy ride.

I actually sacrificed some handling/cornering and went down to 16 inch rims and it still corners fairly well for me but added comfort and better offroad.

You could also try switching up to 20 inch rims. See the posts with members that went larger rims.
 
I installed quality wheel spacers (ca. 25mm), minimal difference but they do reduce the potential for lifting the inside wheel. Rather than replacing the sway bars, consider replacing the bar bushings with firmer delrin bushings. While these give sharper turn-in they do result in a bit rougher ride - as do most any suspension mods.

Tires would be the easiest and probably most effective mod. It really depends on what you mean by “handling”. Do you mean turn-in, maximum g-force, transitions, body lean, what?
 
I installed quality wheel spacers (ca. 25mm), minimal difference but they do reduce the potential for lifting the inside wheel. Rather than replacing the sway bars, consider replacing the bar bushings with firmer delrin bushings. While these give sharper turn-in they do result in a bit rougher ride - as do most any suspension mods.

Tires would be the easiest and probably most effective mod. It really depends on what you mean by “handling”. Do you mean turn-in, maximum g-force, transitions, body lean, what?
Great idea on bushings. Any chance they sell softer bushings for those of us wanting a softer ride?

For spacers, OP needs to check his states regs.

f.i. my states is 6.3 mm(1/4 inch) max spacers. Won't pass inspection here with anything larger. Granted he could always take em off. Or maybe lives in more easy-going state.

Also, would insurance or police possibly find fault and/or place partial blame on spacers contributing to any accidents?
dont know the answer, just asking.
 
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As mentioned lowering is the best single option to improve cornering. Know quite a few who have used the 2" Corksport springs and loved it. Found the ride to be a little firmer of course but nothing remotely harsh as dome have indicated. But I also find a lot of people now a days who complain if their ride is any firmer than super squishy marshmallow. I would not recommend such wide spacers especially as a means to help improve cornering. Instead look into wider wheels with a better offset to get the wheels flush but not poking. This will widen your track a bit and give you more rubber to grip the road and combined with lowering can dramatically increase cornering capability. At that point you could look at upgraded swaybar diameters to reduce a bit of body roll.
 
Tires. Switching to 19" wheels will quicken steering response, as will tires with stiffer sidewalls. You'll get a harsher ride. Tires with softer rubber will stick to the road better and allow higher corning speed (a good, partial definition of better handling), at the cost of shorter tire life.

The CX-5 is already a nice handling, athletic vehicle. What specifically do you mean by "improving handling"?

Wheel spacers are a stupid idea, as they put the wheel studs in double shear and increase the moment applied to the studs further increasing their stress. Then, the additional length gives the tire more leverage over the springs by increasing the motion ratio. That increases body roll.

SUVs have a high center of gravity making them more apt to roll over. Lowering the body on the suspension will lower the center of gravity, but you need to know how that changes the camber gain of both ends of the vehicle, plus, how does that interact with the roll center of each axle? How would it "feel" if the front roll center was above the CG but the rear was below the CG? That distance is the moment arm that causes body roll. How would the vehicle handle if one end rolled to the outside of a turn and the other tried to roll to the inside? I don't know how low you have to go to cause that, do you?

Stiffer springs will also control body roll better. But, less body roll is not the definition of better handling.

If you want handling, you want a Miata, or MS3.
 
You're going to need a comprehensive approach to overcome the front heavy nature. I suggest an actual race shop that tunes real race cars and street stuff. They could soften/stiffen the right components to make it much better without being miserable or prone to poor behaviors at the limit.
 
Whatever the case here, be very careful chasing 'real' cornering ability with this vehicle.

Sway bar upgrade only -CAUTION- This will make the car feel more sure-footed, yes. But if its pushed hard will tend to lift and potentially roll over without warning, leaving little to no chance of 'saving it'.

Tires - as long as you're not putting some crazy R compounds on, is a valid upgrade from the incredibly terrible Toyo A36's (they're black and round, and get cars off the lot). But, -CAUTION- here as well, as depending on how hard you're driving you may be pushing the limits of the suspension. If the spring compresses too far (and bottoms out), the only result is wheel lift and potentially rolling over. - See the moose tests below.

screenshot showing full compression of the front left, so much so that the rear right lifts (not good for an SUV)
1678589329336.png


Handling/suspension is a complicated thing. But for the most part for better handling think lower, stiffer, and wider at the same time. The best option imo (and what I'm doing) is lowering springs with appropriate shocks (or coilovers) and wider/decent tires.

I saw a YouTube video of someone auto-crossing their stock CX-5. They ended up getting removed from the event, and future events as they inadvertedly got it up on 2 wheels (apparently).

Based on the 'moose tests' 47 mph swerve/lane change, the CX-5 seemed to have fared pretty well compared to other vehicles. But, it still dives pretty hard, and raising a tire on an SUV is not a good thing.

Several moose test videos to see/compare how the different vehicles respond.

CX5

BMW x3

BMW X5

Audi Q5

Mazda Miata

VW GTI

Toyota GR Yaris

Porsche Turbo S
 
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My plan is a 2" drop with bilistein b6 setup and a rear bar. Wheels are going from 19x7 to 19x8.5. Tires from 225 to either 245 or 255. Then I will be moose testing.
 
My plan is a 2" drop with bilistein b6 setup and a rear bar. Wheels are going from 19x7 to 19x8.5. Tires from 225 to either 245 or 255. Then I will be moose testing.
I'm chasing the same setup I have the Corksport spings, Bilstein B6, and adjustable control arms ready to be installed later in the spring along with the JB4. I'm also researching wheel options, probably going for 20" with 245/45R20.

Digging these, but $600/wheel isn't in the budget
1678590957474.png


I'm a bit leery to be the test mule trying random sway bar mods (not that I've seen any that are actually available for purchase anyway).

Note: I've been down this path in the past with my '98 CRV. I had Eibach springs, Koni Yellow shocks front and rear strut braces, and decent tires... it was a lot of fun. It definitely hit the limits of what I was comfortable with. However it was a known issue with upgraded swaybar mounts tearing out of the vehicle. As it wasI broke 2 end-links on the stock rear sway bar.

I read about an instance of an upgrade rear sway bar tearing out on a CX5, and the mounts needing to be welded back on... not something I want to deal with.
 
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Well I won't be doing scca in my CX-5 lol but I am a very "spirited driver. Haven't heard of a rear swaybar mount tearing out of a 5 so that would be a concern. I'm about to order the B6's but eta is not until late June so no hurry there. But when I have the shop install it all we will look into the swaybar links and mounts and maybe proactively address beefing them up if needed. They have a lot of race background so should be able to advise.
 
Mine might come faster then....maybe. just depends on the distributor my shop orders from. Not worried about it since I'm in no hurry.
 
Whatever the case here, be very careful chasing 'real' cornering ability with this vehicle.

Sway bar upgrade only -CAUTION- This will make the car feel more sure-footed, yes. But if its pushed hard will tend to lift and potentially roll over without warning, leaving little to no chance of 'saving it'.

Tires - as long as you're not putting some crazy R compounds on, is a valid upgrade from the incredibly terrible Toyo A36's (they're black and round, and get cars off the lot). But, -CAUTION- here as well, as depending on how hard you're driving you may be pushing the limits of the suspension. If the spring compresses too far (and bottoms out), the only result is wheel lift and potentially rolling over. - See the moose tests below.

screenshot showing full compression of the front left, so much so that the rear right lifts (not good for an SUV)
View attachment 317735

Handling/suspension is a complicated thing. But for the most part for better handling think lower, stiffer, and wider at the same time. The best option imo (and what I'm doing) is lowering springs with appropriate shocks (or coilovers) and wider/decent tires.

I saw a YouTube video of someone auto-crossing their stock CX-5. They ended up getting removed from the event, and future events as they inadvertedly got it up on 2 wheels (apparently).

Based on the 'moose tests' 47 mph swerve/lane change, the CX-5 seemed to have fared pretty well compared to other vehicles. But, it still dives pretty hard, and raising a tire on an SUV is not a good thing.

Several moose test videos to see/compare how the different vehicles respond.

CX5

BMW x3

BMW X5

Audi Q5

Mazda Miata

VW GTI

Toyota GR Yaris

Porsche Turbo S
That's why I tell people a RSB on a stock height car is a waste. There is still too much suspension travel. A lowering set even the H&R (which work well with stock dampers) work fine.
The body roll in that video is laughable. With the right set up you can pretty much eliminate the chance of that happening, aside from impacting something.

I can overtseer mine so far as the DSC will allow it, and with the fuse pulled I can oversteer as far as the (now ) open diff and available power allow.

There is a J turn exit I use that turn from one highway to another. It's starts under a bridge and you loop around to be on top. At the apex is a single exit and merge lane (for a j back to the other highway, opposite direction) and then 1 travel lane leading to another on ramp which both connect to the target highway.

If I go hard in a corner like that ( sharp decreasing radius) power on and lower gear/higher rpms (for actual awd grip and not braking) if I don't let off before I make the final sharper adjustment, the DSC will literally modulate wheel speed such that if I don't let off, I would go into the wall at about a 45* angle, with the wheel tilted full right. It's like being in a spin in airplane; you cant just move the control stick in the opposite directions, it won't have any effect.

. I've tested it several times and it's actually dangerous in itself. But on a constant radius high speed sharp turn I can actually get lift off oversteer mid/high 3rd gear to control understeer and stay power on in my lane. The DSC is more sensitive/biased towards rapid changes in wheel speeds. On a slick enough street you can oversteer a bit (maybe 25* 30* in my experience) even with the dsc on, because the wheel are not dragging as much during the first part of the turn.

Someone actually sideswiped me once going about 80 on a rainy day, and my car did a full 360 with no lift. I might have even been on the H&R at the time (now on adjustable coils). Their license plate actually got stuck in the door gap they spun me around. I only went about 1 lane off the highway (grass) and if it was a wider highway I could have kept driving.

One of many reasons I don't want fake utility height on my vehicle which is on paved roads 99% of the time, and 1% on some gravel road suitable for any stock car.
 
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