How-To: Gauge Pod (MINIMAL to no damage method)

zinger002

Member
:
2006 Mazda Mazdaspeed6
I also put this togeather becasue after about an hour of searching, i said to hell with it and just started removing parts lol. I know that sounds like a bad idea but it worked for me.

Difficulty = 2. If you have no faith in your pop clip pulling or screw turning abilities, stop reading now lol.
Tools = Phillips Screwdriver, 10mm Socket and about 4 inch extension, 1 Screw (drywall type screw works perfect)
Cost = Cost of gauges and pod. Perhaps Time if your ego is big :)
“O” Factor = You be the judge... but I say 4.
RISKS = Almost all of the possibilities for damage are ignorance such as; Pulling too hard and breaking a part, Losing a screw, Scratching any piece, Cutting any stock wires, etc...

*Please note that i did not take pictures the first time around becasue i was basically doing this blind the first time. Some steps I do not have pictures of but I will describe them as best I can untill i get pictures once the oil pressure gauge is done.*

1.) First step is to remove the cup holders.
Pull up the e-break and get a finger in the front of the hole. Pull up firmly untill the clips disconnect. Then pull up on the rest. Set aside in safe location.
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2.) Now remove the shift knob and pull up on the rear section thats holding the shift boot. You will now need to wiggle the piece around in order to unscrew the light from the rear of the piece. The bulb pops out by pressing down the small tabs that are holding the bulb in place. once you can pop these down just pull the bulb out. Also disconnect the Cig Lighter by using your trusty phillips screw driver.
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3.) Once this piece is off, put back the shift knob to avoid killing any interior pieces on the threads.

4.) Open the Glove Box and remove the string on the right hand side.

5.) Pull in the sides firmly to get the box past the stops and set the box aside.
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6.) Remove the 10mm bolt from the radio.
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7.) Loosen the 4 screws holding in the radio and then pull firmly on the bottom of the radio trim to get it out. It does not need to be disconnected from anything really. I just wrapped it in a cloth and let it sit there.
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8.) There are 2 screws holding in the Dash Console whatever you wanna call it thinger, once those are out pull it towards you the pop out the last 2 clips and remove the connector on the drivers side.
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Dont worry, your on the home stretch.

9.) To remove the door for the console, follow these instructions from another user named TiGreySpeed6. Since i was an idiot and did not take pictures, i am shamelessly stealing his work for this part.

NO MORE-
The hinges are way easy-
and here are the pics to prove it.

just your basic rollpins, very light grade
one on each side
use any pointy tip screw like a drywall screw
twist into the pin just barely finger tight
then pull
- - not too tight, just enough to get a grip or you will actually make it harder to pull out as the pin expands and pressure holds the pin in place
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Pin removal:
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Here's the same lame picture of a lotek in place
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This user used double sided foam tape. thats what im gonna use when walmart or canadian tire opens back up.

*Day Pictures*
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*Night Pictures*
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NOTES: *Removal of the door also allows you to run all the necessary wiring up through the space where the pivot for the door was. This eliminates cutting of any type needing to be done because you can just run the wires up where the door hinges were.

If i missed anything else please feel free to chime in at any time so i can add it to the origional post. Please dont nell me i need pics as i have explained why i do not have any yet.
 
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sorry, but the oil change is about 1000 km's away so i still need to do the oil pressure gauge. all the wiring is done but i just need to pop the pod back off and hook up the oil pressure. then i will once again take more pictures to fill in the gaps.

are you planning on doing gauges? i was so shocked that i couldnt find a full write up about this.
 
i see u said canadian tire.. so that means u live in canadaland. want to come down my gauges for me lol :p
 
is this the lotek piece that pg used to sale.

whaddaya think of the fit and finish. and the build quality. still tryin to figure out if its neccesary to spend 200 on cp-e's piece.
 
i see u said canadian tire.. so that means u live in canadaland. want to come down my gauges for me lol :p

haha, if you meet half way lol.
is this the lotek piece that pg used to sale.

whaddaya think of the fit and finish. and the build quality. still tryin to figure out if its neccesary to spend 200 on cp-e's piece.

I bought it from a guy locally here in edmonton, he said he got it off street unit. but it looks nothing like the cpe's pod from underneith so i say its lotek.
fit is not perfect, but with some foam tape it centers nicely. so all in all i would say spending 200 on a pod is so not worth it. i could fiberglass right ontop of this and make it a bit bigger then it would fit perfect.

oil change coming up at the end of the week so moar pics will be up then.
 
nice work zinger. my pod and gauges are on the way and your how-to will come in handy when i do the install so thanks very much for your efforts.

question? are the gauges hard to see during the day? did your gauges come with hoods and are you considering puting them on? if so would you post a pic.

if not i may decide to go with the hoods and could post a pic on your thread if you dont mind. ya know, for the greater good.
 
Yeah i found this thread after I spent way too much time trying to figure out how to remove that top panel. Love how I find them after I need them. That bolt holding the radio in via the glovebox was a real pita to locate. Glad I didn't break the radio.
 
nice work zinger. my pod and gauges are on the way and your how-to will come in handy when i do the install so thanks very much for your efforts.

question? are the gauges hard to see during the day? did your gauges come with hoods and are you considering puting them on? if so would you post a pic.

if not i may decide to go with the hoods and could post a pic on your thread if you dont mind. ya know, for the greater good.

im writing this from my phone so sorry for errors. I personally hated the look the hoods give. it may help visibility during the day but I don't know for sure. the gauges are hard to see without the hoods when they are red. easy to see when they are white but I have yet to wire them up to do the color switch. the hoods are a personal preference really.
 
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maybe i'll just wire up both colors.

zinger you gonna post a pic of the white during the day? i'd like to see that.

whered you get the signal for the voltage? do you go straight of the batt. or any power source?
 
i cant wait till my last gauge gets in and the pod so i can do this myself, this write up will be very helpful. yea id like to see the whites lit up during the day also.
 
the white during the day is stupid easy to read, but i dont think it looks as good as the red.

i will get picutres of the white on thursday.
 
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