Guide How-To Fix for Bose. Photo Essay

I'm sorry, but the outcome of having a sub sitting on my back seat would not happen for me; glad you like it though and a very nice write up.
 
Another update.

the Visonik 15 band Eq seem to be the source of the cracklys, and the horrible turn-on transient, I just ran a little test with the EQ out of the loop and have rid myself of the crackels
I put it and the new tweets in on the same day, so until now, had never heard the tweets without the EQ
thinkin I will sell this eq (and fund a steathjack box) haha

I do now have this ultra faint alt whine GRRR hope to rid it when I clean up the wiring and uninstall the EQ

Pics of the tweets crossed at 1600hz below the vertical line is a photo artifact, and I tidyed up the edge of the tweet itself post install

Oh, and since no one has chosen to comment on the metallica pics, I added a couple others

all pics now with a sammy a737 thanks to crappy canon quality
 

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My only concern here is about those tweeters. They look like home speakers, which are designed for a different audio environment. I hope they don`t end up sounding wrong in the car. What are they, exactly?
 
My only concern here is about those tweeters. They look like home speakers, which are designed for a different audio environment. I hope they don`t end up sounding wrong in the car. What are they, exactly?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho... &FTR=264-526&CFID=15756718&CFTOKEN=85853601

they are mebbe a bit directional for a car, the sound though is quite good, and they are bright enough I was able to lose the EQ and I am screwing around with the fader treble and bass in the plus minus 2 range for tweeking

just mebbe move the seating position to the middle of the listening environment(silly)

Just gotta find a replacement for the basslink on the rear seat (flame2)

Ya know, I was gonna mount on of those tactile transducers on my chair, but the basslink sitting right there hits me so hard as it is I forgot all about it
 
The jack box is my alternate choice, for sure, but I just do not see getting enough volume to make a correct enclosure and stay flush. Though sticking out there would be minimally intrusive.

If I could get the jack box volume to tune to a f3 of say, 25, or even 30 would be tolerable I would go that route.

If you haven't seen it, the jack box is completely flush and matches the interior perfectly. I was told my the builder that it measures .7 cu ft which is plenty for the 8" that it was built for. I'm thinking of modifying it slightly to fit a square kicker to add a little more surface area. Not sure about the box tuning though. For 100% stealth, I'm pretty happy.

Where do you think your whine is coming from? I routed the power down the passenger side and while it's only grounded to the chassis, I have no whine.
My low level input is tapped from the stock amp location and run down drivers side.
 
If you haven't seen it, the jack box is completely flush and matches the interior perfectly. I was told my the builder that it measures .7 cu ft which is plenty for the 8" that it was built for. I'm thinking of modifying it slightly to fit a square kicker to add a little more surface area. Not sure about the box tuning though. For 100% stealth, I'm pretty happy.

Where do you think your whine is coming from? I routed the power down the passenger side and while it's only grounded to the chassis, I have no whine.
My low level input is tapped from the stock amp location and run down drivers side.

proly sloppy wiring on my part. The whine, I am not so worried about. I know whine, and I will win. its this wierd spaky crackle that comes and goes that is buggin me
 
Grand finale

I have finally completed the stereo tweakage to the MS3 GT
The last step will offend some more purists, as I have this amp http://www.ecusad.com/display_product.aspx?ProductsID=119 and this subwoofer http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_372_Infinity+BassLink.html?gclid=CN3Ys7SLmJ8CFQTyDAod0m9yEw all running off the red wire that feeds the stock bose amp. it is now feeding, cranked up to holy crap loud, amps rated at 1400 watts total. no sweat. I bought a 1000 cap, and have that evening out the demand from the two amps. to fix that noise problem I had, I also bought the adjustable ground loop isolator from Sonic, removed the "power booster wire" I had running over the hump from a prior sub install, and disconnected the remote wire from the basslink setting it to "auto on"

the sum of these changes is a removal of the super faint alt whine, and the odd crackly noise that came and went with throttle application

The final tally for the speakers, amp, sub, crossovers, cable, dymat, cap, etc is appx $780

I would like to get someone local to check it out, and post back to the group
 
Well, the crackle has dissappeared, mebbe a winter thing
runnin steady with the big cap, without the visonik EQ
usually set at +1 bass -2 treble fade R1 or 2 basslink gain at oh, say 60%

12 is loud, 16 is pretty rockin 20 pisses off the neighbors

wish I knew the output voltage of the "lineout" wires to get the amp gain set better than by ear, I have old ears
 

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