How to fix ALL SPUTTER ISSUES!!!

[nig3]

Working on it. (shady)

has anyone considered maybe the fact we are actually running too rich causeing the sputtering issue, espesically sense the car dumps even more fuel when its cold outside, that and all the black soot on the back of my car too, hahaha. i wonder if leaning out the ms3 abit would fix the sputtering, hmmmmm...
i was going to try and use a MAF extender to make the car run at a 11to1 instead 10to1 afrs and see what the results were. I just wish there was a real EM system available or at least a reflash to fix this damn sputtering nonsense, aaaahhhhhhh......(dunno)

 

[tru-boost]

the car dumps more fuel because it needs more in the cold. that doenst make the car more rich, thats just what it needs to go along with the dense cold air. laloosh logged his cuts a while back. he said it happend when the car went 12.5 or higher on the A/F....too lean.

 

[redrocketz]

the car dumps more fuel because it needs more in the cold. that doenst make the car more rich, thats just what it needs to go along with the dense cold air. laloosh logged his cuts a while back. he said it happend when the car went 12.5 or higher on the A/F....too lean.

We run Jason's car at those AFR's and he is running just fine...

 

[whooosh]

considering there are no speed6s doing a **** hair better than our **** hair, tuned by anyone else or making the same WHP, i'd say thats ample room to brag. and we've managed to do it without blowing a stock motor for well over 15,000 miles on the mods and boost level. so bite your lip and make high school remarks all you want, because at the end of the day neither yours or anyone else's mazdaspeed6 is at this point.

i challenge people and hell i welcome people to push this car beyond that and will be the first in the line to pat the champ on the back when it happens.

so you are advocating running a GT turbo on a stock fuel system?

I wasn't attempting to make high school remarks to get your Pokemon all bunched up - just voicing my opinion

If the wager is good enough,
I'll accept your challenge w/o a tuner on my car

PM your offer

 

[driver311]

it is a 5V map sensor. i have mine clamped at 3.9V . i dont feel you need to go as low as 3.5 or less. with my tests i saw that 3.9V is about 16.5 psi. if you still cut at that point you know you have a fuel issue. that is my problem as of now. the ecu sees 16.5 psi, i actually have 19psi. the car pulls solid for a few seconds then it sputters and cuts out. i just ordered my pluds from PG today. i will change them in a few weeks when my new TRZ intercooler gets here. i am giving PG a few more weeks to work out their CDFP issues. if they dont move forwars, i will just get one from "mrlilguy".

did you try the coil wire stretch? Did you try going down to 3.5v to see if it helped? Try those two things and get back with us.

 

[knowledge007]

has anyone considered maybe the fact we are actually running too rich causeing the sputtering issue, espesically sense the car dumps even more fuel when its cold outside, that and all the black soot on the back of my car too, hahaha. i wonder if leaning out the ms3 abit would fix the sputtering, hmmmmm...
i was going to try and use a MAF extender to make the car run at a 11to1 instead 10to1 afrs and see what the results were. I just wish there was a real EM system available or at least a reflash to fix this damn sputtering nonsense, aaaahhhhhhh......(dunno)

So far there is two updates. I just received my second two weeks ago. And sputtering during idle still exists.

 

[aliencx7]

you recieved your second what?

 

[knowledge007]

you recieved your second what?

Reflash update. And I meant the sputtering during idle still exists.

 

[Bravnik]

Reflash update. And I meant the sputtering during idle still exists.

Maybe a stupid question, but have you checked your Turbo Intake Connection to ensure the clamp is tight?

If so, just ignore me

 

[knowledge007]

Im not sure what clamp that would be??? Is that the clmap that connects the CAI to the engine?

 

[Tagkat]

No trace that pipe to the intake on the turbo if you look where the pipe connects for the CAI and go back and underneath that you'll see another clamp. Hidden down in there. Check if that's loose.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

so you are advocating running a GT turbo on a stock fuel system?

I wasn't attempting to make high school remarks to get your Pokemon all bunched up - just voicing my opinion

If the wager is good enough,
I'll accept your challenge w/o a tuner on my car

PM your offer

oh man, a snipe at my avatar. someone get me a box of tissues!

where was there a wager? challenging someone to the task doesn't imply monetary reward or bets. then again, most of us learned reading comprehension in high school or before that.

advocating running it? we're doing it and doing it successfully by more than mere **** hairs as you so eloquently put it. where's the issue? could the same or better results be achieved with a smaller turbo or reworked stocker? honestly yes i think they could and hindsight being what it is we would probably have gone that route knowing now what the end results would be.

reality of the situation is this; we're running it, it works well, works safely and is faster and better proven on the street and dyno than any other proven mazdaspeed6 without a fuel system upgrade, without a built engine and without alot of other expensive BS people have thrown on these cars in an effort to make them faster. if you're not impressed and can do no better than sling mud, then that's your prerogative.

 

[ronniekarn]

i currently have no sputters or boost/fuel cut issues. i just helped a friend install his downpipe and he was getting sputters. after stretching his coils, sputters are all gone.

 

[whooosh]

oh man, a snipe at my avatar. someone get me a box of tissues!

where was there a wager? challenging someone to the task doesn't imply monetary reward or bets. then again, most of us learned reading comprehension in high school or before that.

advocating running it? we're doing it and doing it successfully by more than mere **** hairs as you so eloquently put it. where's the issue? could the same or better results be achieved with a smaller turbo or reworked stocker? honestly yes i think they could and hindsight being what it is we would probably have gone that route knowing now what the end results would be.

reality of the situation is this; we're running it, it works well, works safely and is faster and better proven on the street and dyno than any other proven mazdaspeed6 without a fuel system upgrade, without a built engine and without alot of other expensive BS people have thrown on these cars in an effort to make them faster. if you're not impressed and can do no better than sling mud, then that's your prerogative.

let's not get into education "mud slinging"
You'll come up a bit short as does your ET's on that big huffer - Xede mistake

I honestly was just trying to drum up some friendly competition between us speed owners

 

[knowledge007]

No trace that pipe to the intake on the turbo if you look where the pipe connects for the CAI and go back and underneath that you'll see another clamp. Hidden down in there. Check if that's loose.

So this is not the clamp for the recirc were talking about right? Just want to clarify?

 

[Bravnik]

That is correct. If you follow your CAI (if you have one) or your stock airbox pipeing, it will run along side the battery box and down. It will then make a left turn into your Turbo. This is where you need to check to ensure it is tight.

I had bad sputtering in 3rd through 6th at about 5k RPMs. It was driving me mad. I then checked this connection and it was about 20 turns lose 0.o

I still get some stuttering every now and then under WOT but its not even close to the same. Also my turbo spools way faster now and at crusing I run about -5 PSI in 6th instead of like -15 at 80MPH. The sputtering I have left now seems to be the dreaded lack of fuel. However, I'm replacing my BCD tomorrow and putting on a Map Clamp to see if that makes any differance.

 

[enganear]

OK, what's a BCD? This forum really could use a TLA sticky.
-enganear

 

[ATE BALLER]

ATP boost cut defender.

It's made to bleed off manifold pressure at the map sensor to keep the ecu from seeing boost beyond what atp set it up to bleed off at. It's also a pos.

 

[Rotus8]

ATP boost cut defender.

It's made to bleed off manifold pressure at the map sensor to keep the ecu from seeing boost beyond what atp set it up to bleed off at. It's also a pos.

What's "pos"? (smoke)

 

[Captain KRM P5]

let's not get into education "mud slinging"
You'll come up a bit short as does your ET's on that big huffer - Xede mistake

I honestly was just trying to drum up some friendly competition between us speed owners

so to clarify, if you consider the XEDE a mistake, then your opinion of the more widely used standback from CP-e must be pretty low considering not one of those cars has replicated our results.

you know nothing about my level of education so you're as unqualified to make that remark as you were to make your other remarks, not surprisingly. perhaps i misunderstood, but trash talking and phrases like "**** hair" don't equate to "friendly competition" where i come from.

if you can or anyone can do better, like i said i would applaud it in a heartbeat. the community stands only to gain from achievements like that. i'd like to see these cars in the 10s and 11s, and it doesn't matter to me how its done or who does it.