should have WD'd the very first one after you couldn't turn it. or PB Blaster.
your best bet is to chisel them off.
How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix
- Thread starter 122 Vega
- Start date
should have WD'd the very first one after you couldn't turn it. or PB Blaster.
your best bet is to chisel them off.
goodfornothing
Member
- :
- 03 22v P5-T
Damn it -_- 
Anyone had problem with EGR leaking air? I hooked a smoke machine to the intake and saw that smoke are coming out from the EGR. It seem to be coming out by the shaft (the hole where the shaft go through) . Is it suppose to do that?
MY engine was burning lean, and that seems to be the place where air was leaking in.
MY engine was burning lean, and that seems to be the place where air was leaking in.
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
That's the whole point of this thread being created. It gets gunked up and won't shut causing a vacuum leak...so you take it off and clean it!
I'm not talking about that the valve being stuck open. When I took mine off, the valve wasn't stuck at all. I am talking about the EGR leaking air even when the valve is fully closed. And that air is coming into the intake from outside of the EGR (from the engine bay), not from exhaust.
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
Gotcha...I haven't seen or heard this before but maybe some ultra copper permatex silicone on both sides of the cheesy gasket will help.
Here is the picture with the red marking showing where the leak was (smoke was coming out from there when I had the smoke machine hooked up). Theoretically it shouldn't allow any air through, since all the air needs to be accounted for by all the sensors. However, the design of this egr valve seems to be really crappy, so it almost seems like that they didn't really care about this issue (or maybe the amount of air coming through is negligible, I don't know).
I took the EGR off cleaned it as instructed by this thread, also took off the IAC and clean that as well. Put it all back, but engine still idles kinda rough and CEL comes back on. I guess I just need to get a new egr, just hope that the problem will go away after that.
I took the EGR off cleaned it as instructed by this thread, also took off the IAC and clean that as well. Put it all back, but engine still idles kinda rough and CEL comes back on. I guess I just need to get a new egr, just hope that the problem will go away after that.
Attachments
I got one off my car I can let go to you for cheap. Just got to clean it out to run like a champ.
I thought the EGR bolt was stripped and I was going to have to do something drastic to take it off. But when I pulled off the intake manifold to get a better go at it with the wrench it came right off. I purchased a used MSP EGR valve from a member to clean and put back on with zero down time waiting for the old EGR to clean.
PM me or something and I will send you pics and what not.
hi. first post here.
i have a 02 mp5 and its been sitting for the last two years ever since i got my passat. i just never got around to driving it because it needed a few things here and there to be fixed, but finally, my wife needed it for work so i got on the ball and got it running. i changed the front rotors and pads, new battery, and she was good to go. took it and had it inspected and it passed, no problems. this was on saturday. now, starting on sunday, the check engine light came on and it is really rocky at an idle and sounds like it wants to die. searching the net i found this post, which has had a ton of info for me to take in! Im pretty sure the EGR is in need of some serious cleaning, so i planned on doing that tonight.
However... upon going out, popping the hood and trying to take the intake tube off, i noticed that the accordion part of the intake tube had some places that were pretty much dry-rotted and were very brittle. it already had some holes in it, but when i was twisting the tube (before i noticed all of this) i think i made a bigger one in it. Im guessing this is bad....
Im gonna go ahead and pull the EGR and clean it since im this far in, but i was just wondering if when i put everything back together it will be drivable. the holes arent huge, the biggest one being maybe an inch or two. they are actually slits, rather than holes, in between the ridges in the pipe. im guessing that alone could cause an idle problem. any idea how much a replacement costs? i have found all the cold air ones for a couple-hundered dollars but im kinda broke at the moment and really need the car to function tomorrow! yikes! If the factory one isnt too expensive i could try and pick on up at my local dealer tomorrow because it looks like the autoparts stores dont carry stock replacements.
anyway, i just thought id post this up real fast while i go do the EGR cleaning. hopefully ill get some sort of response between now and the time im done.
i have a 02 mp5 and its been sitting for the last two years ever since i got my passat. i just never got around to driving it because it needed a few things here and there to be fixed, but finally, my wife needed it for work so i got on the ball and got it running. i changed the front rotors and pads, new battery, and she was good to go. took it and had it inspected and it passed, no problems. this was on saturday. now, starting on sunday, the check engine light came on and it is really rocky at an idle and sounds like it wants to die. searching the net i found this post, which has had a ton of info for me to take in! Im pretty sure the EGR is in need of some serious cleaning, so i planned on doing that tonight.
However... upon going out, popping the hood and trying to take the intake tube off, i noticed that the accordion part of the intake tube had some places that were pretty much dry-rotted and were very brittle. it already had some holes in it, but when i was twisting the tube (before i noticed all of this) i think i made a bigger one in it. Im guessing this is bad....
Im gonna go ahead and pull the EGR and clean it since im this far in, but i was just wondering if when i put everything back together it will be drivable. the holes arent huge, the biggest one being maybe an inch or two. they are actually slits, rather than holes, in between the ridges in the pipe. im guessing that alone could cause an idle problem. any idea how much a replacement costs? i have found all the cold air ones for a couple-hundered dollars but im kinda broke at the moment and really need the car to function tomorrow! yikes! If the factory one isnt too expensive i could try and pick on up at my local dealer tomorrow because it looks like the autoparts stores dont carry stock replacements.
anyway, i just thought id post this up real fast while i go do the EGR cleaning. hopefully ill get some sort of response between now and the time im done.
Jeepwheelin02
Member
Just thought I would add my two cents in here as well.
I bought a 1995 Mazda Protege DX with the 1.5L DOHC an auto tranny and 152,000 miles back in February. Got it for a steal cause it wouldnt start. Getting it to run cost me a $17 fuel filter. It always had a rough idle, and shifted a little harder than I thought it should. I started searching the net and I found this post, and thought well one day I will get around to cleaning that. Well that day finally got here.
This past Saturday morning the car would not start. Which really sucked since I had to make the hour and a half drive to Denver. Ended up taking my jeep (and gas mileage in that thing SUCKS). Finally got a chance to take the EGR out today. The EGR valve on teh 1.5L is in the same location as the 2.0, not sure about the other engines. I was gonna go ahead and clean my IAC while I was at it. Well the easiest way I saw to get the IAC off was to take the entire throttle body off. 4 bolts, a bunch of vaccum lines, throttle cable, throttle return cable, and 3 electrical connectors and it was off. I then took the IAC apart and cleaned it. Well guess what, when you take the entire throttle body off, it is VERY easy to get to the EGR. That thing came out so quick it was a dream. It was also VERY disgusting. I had a nice size puddle of carbon on the ground when I was done cleaning it.
Once I got everything back together, the car fired right up. It idles very smooth now, and shifts like it should.
So thanks for the info on how to fix the rough idle. And for any one out there that had a rough isle and now your car wont start, yet it gets spark, fuel, and air. Clean those two things and see what happens.
I bought a 1995 Mazda Protege DX with the 1.5L DOHC an auto tranny and 152,000 miles back in February. Got it for a steal cause it wouldnt start. Getting it to run cost me a $17 fuel filter. It always had a rough idle, and shifted a little harder than I thought it should. I started searching the net and I found this post, and thought well one day I will get around to cleaning that. Well that day finally got here.
This past Saturday morning the car would not start. Which really sucked since I had to make the hour and a half drive to Denver. Ended up taking my jeep (and gas mileage in that thing SUCKS). Finally got a chance to take the EGR out today. The EGR valve on teh 1.5L is in the same location as the 2.0, not sure about the other engines. I was gonna go ahead and clean my IAC while I was at it. Well the easiest way I saw to get the IAC off was to take the entire throttle body off. 4 bolts, a bunch of vaccum lines, throttle cable, throttle return cable, and 3 electrical connectors and it was off. I then took the IAC apart and cleaned it. Well guess what, when you take the entire throttle body off, it is VERY easy to get to the EGR. That thing came out so quick it was a dream. It was also VERY disgusting. I had a nice size puddle of carbon on the ground when I was done cleaning it.
Once I got everything back together, the car fired right up. It idles very smooth now, and shifts like it should.
So thanks for the info on how to fix the rough idle. And for any one out there that had a rough isle and now your car wont start, yet it gets spark, fuel, and air. Clean those two things and see what happens.
after going back out there, my intake tube is now cracked in half. basically its almost in two pieces now, cut across the middle where the flexy part is. i had absolutely zero luck even getting at the two bolts to remove the EGR valve so i threw the intake tube back on and moved it out of the garage. now the car will barely stay alive at all. it shakes and the lights dim every time the RPMs drop. This really sucks.
^ its supposed to do that. Basically your feeding the car un-filtered air, not enough air is passing through the MAF sensor and it (the MAF) is telling the car to shut down...
Here are your options...
1) Search junk yards for a good intake tube
2) Search FS threads for a good intake tube (where I bought mine, was missing from previous owner putting a crappy aftermarket intake on it)
3) Buy intake tube new from dealer
4) Buy an aftermarket intake
I believe your problem is not related to the EGR, just related to the big holes in your intake tube. Hopefully none of the brittle plastic was allowed into your engine, that would be bad...
Good Luck!
Here are your options...
1) Search junk yards for a good intake tube
2) Search FS threads for a good intake tube (where I bought mine, was missing from previous owner putting a crappy aftermarket intake on it)
3) Buy intake tube new from dealer
4) Buy an aftermarket intake
I believe your problem is not related to the EGR, just related to the big holes in your intake tube. Hopefully none of the brittle plastic was allowed into your engine, that would be bad...
Good Luck!
