How To: 2.0 Header Installation
- Thread starter Captain KRM P5
- Start date
NMMotorsport
Member
o right cool. i'll keep it in mind, cheers for the site, some good info
If you don't have AWR front and rear motor mounts, DO NOT wrap it.
If you do have em, you'll get away with wrapping it... no prob.
I had my AWR header crack a pipe in half mostly because of the added stress of bad stock motor mounts, the lack of a flex pipe, and added heat from the wrap.
After I got motor mounts + welded the header back up, the header(wrapped again) was a whole lot stronger and held up for a good 6 months before I sold it.
Wrap it if you have AWR motor mounts. It looks better IMO.
If you do have em, you'll get away with wrapping it... no prob.
I had my AWR header crack a pipe in half mostly because of the added stress of bad stock motor mounts, the lack of a flex pipe, and added heat from the wrap.
After I got motor mounts + welded the header back up, the header(wrapped again) was a whole lot stronger and held up for a good 6 months before I sold it.
Wrap it if you have AWR motor mounts. It looks better IMO.
- :
- 03' Mazda Protege 5
NMMotorsport said:
cheers for the guide its good. only problemos, was the egr valve, which after some fetterling, we hooked it up first then pushed the manifold into place. i cleaned it before i started it up but it still went purpley, however now its gone a cool silver colour lol
I like the tint color the OBX headers have. Her is a good pic of mine in the light, it is cooler looking than just plane chrome IMO:
I had a hell of a time with the EGR pipe when I installed mine. It never did line up even after some persuasion from a torch and a long pry bar. I ended up pluging it w/ a iron pipe cap and drove it to my local mufler shop where the ended up rebending the damn thing.
Oh well it was worth it, at least untill I have to put the stock one back on come emmisions time.
Oh well it was worth it, at least untill I have to put the stock one back on come emmisions time.
Oh by the way amsgator:
Try this stuff to get the blue off,
http://www.stainlessworks.net/cart/product_info.php?cPath=153&products_id=1305
I haven't personally tried it, but if it bothers you that much it's a pretty cheap fix.
That header company makes really good quality stuff, I plan on getting a pair of their headers for my Mustang.
Try this stuff to get the blue off,
http://www.stainlessworks.net/cart/product_info.php?cPath=153&products_id=1305
I haven't personally tried it, but if it bothers you that much it's a pretty cheap fix.
That header company makes really good quality stuff, I plan on getting a pair of their headers for my Mustang.
Thekid760 said:
yeap me too. didnt have to go to shop but it took a good 15-20 minutes to get it to fit. i hit the header up w/ some steel wool and it made it shiny again but it still needs more. i need to get some 01 steel wool, all i have now is 00 because they didnt have 01 at lowes. so hopefully soon i'll get some 01 to attack it again
Thekid760 said:
i checked for the 01 again and the OTHER lowes didnt have it so i'm going to go check home depot. if they dont have it i'll just scrub the hell out of it w/ the 00. i'll get some up soon hopefully. i am moving back to Jacksonville for the summer so I will probably have some up this weekend or so.
I am having a problem when I first accelerate after starting my 2003 MP5. I just installed OBX headers. I also have a CAI and cat back exhaust. My check engine light is not on or anything. When I first step on the gas and accelerate it's as if the car doesn't mix air/fuel properly. It has trouble accelerating and the RPMs dip down intermittently. This lasts about 30 seconds and then I can drive as usual. It also doesn't happen every time I start my car, just every other or third time. Could this be the ECU still adjusting? I read in this thread that it takes 300 KM, about 150 miles, and I have only driven 50 after my install. Is this anything to worry about? What could it be? Thanks in advance.
My ECU adjustment took about 100 km and I didn't experience such a drastic effect during the adjustment period as you've described. It could be that you have a serious O2 sensor issue or a major air leak somewhere. Did you disconnect the negative battery terminal to reset the ECU?dtone314 said:
In addition, I would highly recommend disconnecting your CAI at the throttle body and spraying some SeaFoam Deep Creep onto your throttle blades while actuating the accelerator to open the throttle (right from under the hood). There may be some dirt on your throttle blades and beyond them that's causing rough idle which is more exaggerated now with the new headers.
I did the SeaFoam trifecta (into the brake booster line/vaccuum, in the fuel tank, and in the crank case) and Deep Creep of my throttle body this past weekend and the results are:
1) no more rough idle
2) acceleration is smoother and engine sounds like it used to when it was new
3) better gas mileage
Good luck!
I just ran 1/2 a quart of new oil through after the old oil had completely drained out. I then waited for the 1/2 quart of new oil to completely drain out before putting my drain plug and oil filter back on and refilling with new oil.amsgator said:
I assume I'll have to change out this oil at 1/2 my usual interval, i.e. 3000 kms
"By pass to the 2nd cat..." (uhm)SKY said:
Sounds like mechanic-speak for they took out the stock manifold & precat and put in the header.
That doesn't eliminate the need to modify the signal to the 2nd O2 sensor. I'm guessing the mechanic didn't do anything about that, which is 99% guaranteed causing your CEL. The simplest way is to drill out a spark plug non-fouler and thread that onto where the second O2 sensor sits.
I doubt the mechanic paid much attention to this thread, FWIW.
