How To: 1st Grounding Kit for MSP

Panzozo

Member
:
Yellow MSP
HOW TO: 1st Grounding Kit for MSP

Please move this to the HOW TO since I can't post there. Thanks

Full 1st Grounding Kits (with positive and negative Monster terminals) Installation Guide for MSP

The following is my installation experience for the full 1st grounding kit with positive and negative monster terminals. It does not replace the installation menu that Craig supplies with the kit. Its only for reference and by no mean is the official installation guide. I am not responsible for any damage to your car. If you purchase a different kit, the installation will be different.
Please proceed with caution.

Needed Tools:
neededtools.jpg


  • A big and small ratchet with several extensions. I have a 3 and 6 for the big ratchet and a 3 for the small ratchet. With all these, you should be about to reach all the bolts.
  • Metric sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 17mm. Ideally, you will want to find a regular and a deep socket for each.
  • A 10mm wrench. This will make life a little bit easier.
  • DREMAL brush to clean hardened dirt on terminals. Electric tools are pretty handy.
  • Can of choke cleaner or brake cleaner to remove dirt form ground locations.
  • Can of lubricant to make bolts and nuts easier to be removed.
  • Clean rags or paper towels to wipe the cleaner and clean the connection.
  • Different cutter to cut the wires and electric tapes.
  • A set of Metric hex key for the Monster battery terminals.
  • A hollow steel pole to help you remove the transmission bolt.

Preparation:

Step 1
: Remove 4 engine cover nuts using the 10mm socket. Then take off the cover.
cover.jpg


Step 2: Remove the intake air box.

First, press the clamp on the BPV hose, which attached to the air box intake pipe, and pull the hose out.
clamp.jpg


Second, remove the air temperature sensor and the MAF plug in.
sensors.jpg


Third, remove the two 10mm bolts on the side of the air temperature sensor. Then release the 2 clips on the side of the air box and remove the top of the air box and filter
air_bolts.jpg


Forth, remove the two 10mm bolts. Then remove the bottom part of the air box
box_bolts.jpg


Fifth, remove the 10mm bolt that hold the angled pipe attached to the air box.
ram_bolt.jpg


Step 3: Remove the battery

First, remove the battery positive and negative terminals. Remove the positive terminal will loose all your radio settings. Then remove two battery bracket 10mm bolts.
bracket_bolts.jpg


Second, remove the battery by sliding it out.
battery.jpg


Third, remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the batter tray and remove the tray as well.
bat_bolts.jpg


After all these hard work, now you are ready to start the installation of the 1st Grounding Kit.
Yes, thats right. You are just getting started. All the previous work has nothing to do with the grounding wires. It just makes it easier to install.





Now, lets get ready to ground wires!!!
 

Panzozo

Member
:
Yellow MSP
Grounding Kit Installation:

First Location
: Remove the 10mm bolt that right next to the power steering reservoir. The bolt holds the power steering reservoir bracket. The bracket might bended a little when you untie it but dont worry. Keep applying the torque and the bolt will come loose. You might need a ratchet extension for this.
steering_bolt.jpg


Lift the power steering reservoir to access to the ground wire bolt. You will see the factory ground wire under the reservoir. Use a deep 10mm socket or with extension to remove the bolt. You will need to replace this ground wire with our first 1st ground wire.
first_bolt.jpg


After you removed the bolt, clean the area with cleaner on rag and connect the first wire to the same location. Flat side of the terminal attach to the fender and run the wire same as the factory wire to the engine mount. Tighten the bolt.

Second Location: Remove the 17mm nut on the engine mount. You will need a deep socket and/or long extension to reach this bolt. Then remove the factory ground wire.
engine_bolt.jpg


Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the first wire, flat side up and the second wire with flat side down. Tighten the nut.
second_bolt.jpg


Third Location: By this time you should have your engine cover removed. If not, you will need to do so to get access to the third bolt. Remove the left valve cover bolt using a 10mm socket.
head_bolt.jpg


Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the second wire, flat side up and the third wire with flat side down. Tighten the bolt.
third_bolt.jpg


Fourth Location: Remove the bolt on the left side of the manifold using a 10mm socket. The bolt is attached to a bracket, which holds couple vacuum lines.
fourth_bolt.jpg


Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the third wire, flat side up and the fourth wire with flat side down. Tighten the bolt.

Fifth Location: Remove two bolts on the right side of the manifold using a 10mm socket. The bolt is attached to a bracket.
fifth_bolts.jpg


Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the fourth wire, flat side up, to one bolt and the fifth wire with flat side up to the other bolt. Tighten the bolts.
On these 2 connections, it doesnt matter if you have flat side up or down.
 

Panzozo

Member
:
Yellow MSP
Sixth Location: Remove the 14mm engine bolt on the right side of the engine head. The engine bolt holds a large metal loop and some sensors. Remove the bolt and loop. You will need a deep 14mm socket or an extension for this because the loop is in the way.
sixth_bolt.jpg


Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the fifth wire, flat side down, and the sixth wire, flat side down, as well. Run the sixth wire vertically down to the transmission. Do not put the metal loop back. You dont need it.

Also it will be easier to leave this bolt loose until the connection at the transmission is made.

Seventh Location: Remove the transmission bolt shown below, which is 12mm and is only an inch from a ridiculously large bolt that is a 19mm. Only remove the 12mm. You will need a deep 12mm socket and a strong ratchet.
seventh_bolt.jpg


This bolt is very long and very hard to remove. If you cant remove this bolt with just the ratchet, like me, you will need the Hollow Steel Pole.
Hold the ratchet in place, and put the hollow steel pole on top of the ratchet. Thats why the pole cant be solid. See how long the pole is.
pole.jpg


Now pull the steel pole towards your body to untie the bolt. It should work.

Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the sixth wire, flat side down, and the seventh wire, flat side down, as well.
Run the seventh wire in a 90-degree angle towards the driver side firewall. Now tighten the 14mm engine bolt on the sixth location. Then tighten the 12mm transmission bolt.

Eighth Location: Remove the 10mm bolt, which holds the factory negative ground wire. This bolt is underneath a huge 3 way split in the loom. Push the movable tab outward and lift the clip that holds the loom.

You should have your battery removed by now. If not, remove the battery to give you more space. You will also need to remove the battery bottom tray to get access to the factory ground wire, which you will need to remove later.
eighth_bolt.jpg


Now you will need to remove the negative battery ground wire. Remove the 2 clips that hold the wire loom from the brackets, one from the black bracket and one from the metal bracket. Open the loom of wire by either cutting it open (be careful not to cut other wires) or unwrap the electric tape. I unwrapped the tapes because its a lot cleaner.
ground.jpg


After you unwrapped the loom of wire, locate the factory ground wire, which is black with yellow stripe. This ground wire should be connected to the battery negative terminal. You wont miss it.

Remove the ground wire from the loom of wire. Re-tape the wires and clip it back to the metal bracket and the black bracket.
ground2.jpg


Now go back and clean the metal bracket area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the seventh wire, flat side down, and the eighth wire, flat side down, as well.
Run the eighth wire in a 90-degree angle towards the negative battery terminal.
The factory 10mm bolt might be too short for the new wire. Use the long bolt supply by the kit to connect them. Tighten the bolt.

If you are having problem putting the new long bolt back to the position, like me. To make life easier, you could connect the wire on the second hole of the same metal bracket. If you do so, you will need to get a M6-1.0 metric hex nut. You can get it in any auto store or hardware store.
eighth_bolt2.jpg


Ninth Location: Remove the factory ground wire and the negative terminal all together by removing the 10mm on the bracket next to the strut bar.
ninth_bolt.jpg


Clean the metal bracket area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the end of the ninth wire, flat side down.

Now connect the eighth wire and the ninth wire to the Monster negative terminal with a hex key. Tighten the bolt. Then put the battery back in place. First the battery tray, then the battery itself and then the battery mounting bracket to tighten the battery. DO NOT CONNECT THE BATTERY.
negative.jpg


Tenth Location: Open the fuse box besides the driver side fender location and locate the positive battery terminal wire bolt. Remove this bolt with a 10mm socket.
fuse_bolt.jpg


Clean the area using cleaner on rag. Connect the end of the final tenth wire, flat side up. Tighten the bolt.

Cut the wires off of the positive terminal as close to the terminal as you can. Untie all the clips or plastic strip. Then the positive battery wire from the fuse box will come lose.
Now you will have 2 wires remain. Strip those 2 wires and secure then to the 8 gauge direct inputs into the base of the Monster positive battery terminal with a hex key.
positive.jpg


Connect the other end of the tenth wire to the Monster positive terminal with a hex key. Tighten the bolt. And reconnect the terminals to the battery.
all_connected.jpg


Now you have done all the connections. Go back and check if all the bolts and nuts are tighten especially for the positive monster terminal. Make sure the wires are tightened. Otherwise, your car wont start.

Now we need to cut your fuse box because it wont fit the new wire. Cut the fuse box with the saw and/or the DREMEL cutter.
fuse_box.jpg


Put the fuse box cover back.
box2.jpg


Now you will have to put back your stock air box, and the engine cover before you can take your car out for a test drive.
done.jpg


These are the parts that come out of your car. Hopefully, not more and not less.
junk.jpg


Start your car and let it idle for about 3-5 minutes and you are DONE!!!

Now you can enjoy the smooth right. And dont forget to send Craig an email to thank him for the great product.
 
Last edited:

1sty

Member
Contributor
:
2006 Toyota Tundra DC
It is for the MSP. I haven't had time to read it all but thats one hell of a write up (thumb)

Also the how to for the MSP, MP3, P5 or sedan will all be basicly the same. All share the same locations.
 
Most excellent write up very well done, extremely detailed with pics better than those found in your average chiltons. Unless regulard Proteges come with the plastic turbo piping and a MazdaSpeed engine cover this is a writeup for MSPs. BTW does this seem to help in anyway and is it legal for SCCA D stock or STX class racing?
 

t3ase

Banned
Contributor
Maniac0301 said:
Most excellent write up very well done, extremely detailed with pics better than those found in your average chiltons. Unless regulard Proteges come with the plastic turbo piping and a MazdaSpeed engine cover this is a writeup for MSPs. BTW does this seem to help in anyway and is it legal for SCCA D stock or STX class racing?
I don't recall the plastic turbo piping or MazdaSpeed cover having to do with anything major in this howto so it could be for ANY protege.

*think outside the box*
 

Panzozo

Member
:
Yellow MSP
Thanks all for the kind word. I hope the HOW TO can help those who bought Craig's kit.
I think the installation is general for Protege and MP3. My brother has a Yellow ;) MP3. I haven't install a kit on his but the location looks the same. I said the grounding kit guide is for MSP basically because it's installed in MY MSP :D

Hope the HOW TO will save some time and hair scratching for those who ordered the kit.

I recommanded to install the kit together with the intake or FMIC or hardpipe if you plan to get one in the future. It's a lot easier to do it all together.

Craig: I have the write up in .doc format. If you want it, I can email it to you. You could ship it with your product.
 

DeadAir

Member
Contributor
:
2003 Protege 5
Damn fine write-up... I put a ground kit with 8 guage on my 2003 P5, and I'm gonna switch to 4 guage... I picked up some Tsunami power wire from a local car audio place, and I've got a few days off from work so it's time to play :)
 

1sty

Member
Contributor
:
2006 Toyota Tundra DC
From me, $120 + shipping for the full kit which is what he had. Its a bit more for Yellow, green or purple wire.
 

1sty

Member
Contributor
:
2006 Toyota Tundra DC
"Craig: I have the write up in .doc format. If you want it, I can email it to you. You could ship it with your product. "

PLease do.
 

Panzozo

Member
:
Yellow MSP
Yeah, I got it from 1st MP3 in NH. Great product. Great quality. I highly recommand it.

Craig: just emailed the file to you.
 

aftershock63

Member
:
2004 G35 Sedan 6mt
I PMed him a while ago but he said he wasn't really making them you can ask again because I would LOVE to have one!
 

1sty

Member
Contributor
:
2006 Toyota Tundra DC
aftershock63 said:
I PMed him a while ago but he said he wasn't really making them you can ask again because I would LOVE to have one!
I'm making them again!
I just can't get battery terminals right now.
 

1sty

Member
Contributor
:
2006 Toyota Tundra DC
a223818 said:
1st MP3 in NH

How much and when do you expect to make more?

Thanks
I make them to order.

You order....I make :D

$75 + shipping for the basic, $87.50 + shipping for the full negative side kit without the battery terminal, $100 + shipping for the full kit without the battery terminals

Add $10 for Yellow or other hard to come by colors. Blue, silver, black and red add no charge.
 

rktktpaul

Member
:
02 POS Ford Explorer
Ok Craig -

I bought the basic kit from you, but am now wishing I had gone with the full negative side kit. Can I still get the pieces necessary to make it a full negative side kit?