How many are running J&S safeguard?

[shane02pro5]

All that wire is doing is giving a TPS voltage reading it will not hurt anything by sharing the signal with both the AFC and J&S and telling it when to look for knock.

 

[Knox Joe]

Hooked up the TPS, started running overly rich, so we re-tuned the AFC, now it's running real good under partial throttle.

One problem, now when I go to get on it partial throttle I hit 0 psi, getting out of vac, and it goes full lean on my w/b, then bogs. If I go WOT it moves like a ***** ape, so I dunno WTF is going on.

My mechanic thinks it's just because the throttle position, and because I'm not driving it hard it is switching back and forth between the three signals. Factory ECU, J&S, and SS AFC. He thinks the factory ECU is messing things all up.

My style of driving won't allow it either. I drive mostly curvy, mountain roads, at partial load a lot so I need help!!!!

 

[shane02pro5]

The J&S should only intercept the spark if knock is detected and the TPS wire only lets it know when to start looking.

Your AFC is controlling the injectors. Two separate things that should not cause a problem. What other wires are used for your AFC? Do you have timing control with your AFC?

 

[Knox Joe]

The J&S should only intercept the spark if knock is detected and the TPS wire only lets it know when to start looking.

Your AFC is controlling the injectors. Two separate things that should not cause a problem. What other wires are used for your AFC? Do you have timing control with your AFC?

No timing control. It's the only one that works for our car, the Split Second.

The AFC is tapped into MAF, O2, and boost I believe.

The TPS on the J&S goes to the O2 with my AFC, and it works as a voltage clamp.

Maybe you don't know what allt it does? Because I was told it tricks the ECU into going into OPEN loop at a certain throttle position.

 

[shane02pro5]

Try contacting Turfburn at NSN or user name "John at J&S". I wish I could help more but I am only familiar with how mine works with the Haltech with its own map sensor to put it into open loop and is also wired into my PLX wideband for closed loop at under 30% throttle.

 

[Knox Joe]

i'm thinking of saying f it, and going stand alone.

 

[shane02pro5]

Any of you guys with the J&S could you check wires going into the knock sensor at the connector. There is a black wire a clear wire and a shield which is just a braded bare wire. Is the shield wired with the black wire into the contact in the connector or is it just unattached. I know it is tied to ground in the unit but I wasn't sure at the other end by the sensor???

 

[apocman]

The J&S does pull timing per cylinder dynamically. John from J&S created patented algorithms to detect actual knock and disregards false positives. it can pull up to 20 degrees per cylinder by intercepting the signals going to the coils and the J&S can determine which cylinder is firing at that very moment and take corrective action on that specific cylinder and and at the same time is trying to put it back as fast as possible when it is safe to do so. If you want to know the actual science behind it you will need to talk to Turf-burn or John from J&S directly.

you can even buy a knock gauge that uses a row of lights to represent each cylinder and depending on the number of lights lit up and by how bright and fast they flash it tells you which cylinder is being pulled and by how much.

In addition, to dynamic pulling from knock being detected by the aftermarket Bosch knock sensor, you can in conjunction or by themselves pull timing by various methods such as you engines current boost PSI reading you can adjust a little knob and the more you turn the knob up the more degrees the J&S will pull via boost rating or even a predefined RPM range that was designed specifically for our cars by John using a boosted Protg for R&D to determine what RPM ranges our boosted 2.0L Protg engine would create actual engine damaging levels of knock and for how long up the RPM range (I think it was like RPM through 5600 RPM or something like that what when our engine created the most amount of knock under normal to aggressive boost load) John from J&S used an actual boosted Protg for the R&D work to confirm this. You can set the Pull-By-RPM map to pull by degrees, 6 degrees or even 9 degrees per cylinder during the specified RPM range while under boost.

So you have quite a few ways to protect your engine from possible detonation.

I only ran the Dynamic knock setup for street use while running 17.7-21 PSI daily on a "stock internals!" highly modified Mazda Speed Protg and had it set to up to pull a total of 20 degrees if necessary,

While if I was ever to have taken my Protg to the Dyno after I had finished modding it I would have all of the settings enabled set at their maximum settings and all running concurrently with each other to provide as much protection as possible to prevent things like for example, to assist in avoiding what happened to BlackZoomZoom on the dyno with his perfectly built forged engine that went boom-boom due to a critical part failure at the very moment he reached WOT at full boost while being on the dyno.

P.S. I will have my J&S, MPI piggy-back ECU tuner unit with maps installed, full 3" TURBO-BACK!!! ION Racing exhaust, The ION Exhaust was and is the best exhaust ever created for the boosted Protg. It was created by Precision robotic welder units and was featured in top magazines who did a year and a half long review/write-up/test of a Mazda speed Protg as they installed ION Racing specific performance parts. No other exhaust was ever able to produce any higher Dyno'ed proven WHP&WTQ gains. The ION Exhaust turbo-back system includes the S-Pipe, $400 racing cat and muffler the very same ones used on racing series BMW's and it even comes with the optional "Test-Pipe" which allows for you to take the cat off and put on a custom made to fit straight test pipe for additional WHP&WTQ gains on top of what you already had gained from the ION system. and I am including two sets of Kart Boy exhaust hangars to ensure the system is on right.

I also have a complete custom made FMIC and a s*** load more parts, but some have been already spoken for by my brother and local car club guys.

I still have the Mazda speed and will be keeping it, but it is being retired to being my wifes car and will be going back stock.