how do you remove the rear door panel
- Thread starter Matthew
- Start date
ill work on it this afternoon in hopes that it gets above zero with the wind 
hey i went to pic up some differnt terminal connectors and realized i indeed have the right ones. but the wires dont really fit, and i dont have a soldering gun...i cant pry them apart either then put them back together, theyre like solid brass...what did you do?
hey i went to pic up some differnt terminal connectors and realized i indeed have the right ones. but the wires dont really fit, and i dont have a soldering gun...i cant pry them apart either then put them back together, theyre like solid brass...what did you do?
Are you talkuing about battery terminals or like ring ends? It's sometimes a pretty tight fit, My best advice is to try to strip your wire as clanly as possible and twist it down as small as it'll go. If that's still too big, it doesn't hurt toomuch if you can't get all of the wire strands inside of the connector as long as you can get most of them, just try to clip the remaining little ones off to make sure they don't touch anything they shouldn't. What terminals are you talking about, though? I'm a little unclear.
sorry i meant the ring end things. i can only get like 50-60% of the wires in..these things are biatches. they might as well be made of CAST iron because even if i can get the wire IN, i cant get it to budge as far as clamping...i dont know what to use. i tried sticking a pair of pliars inside and holding each end of the handles with one hand and using all my strength to pull them apart and they didnt move a nanometer.
Hmm... something's not sounding right there. you got a digicam bychance? If you're having problems, you can always go down to the local hardware store, you could even pick up like a 2gague ring end, and jus clamp it down farther. They aren't pretty or anything, but they're like $.25 each or soemthing. WHile you're there, see if the guys'll help you out. It does take a BIGASS pair of pliers to clamp the things. I ended up buying a cheapie pair of 10" handled ones for the job (Figured I'd use them elsewhere anyways) And I still had to clamp one-side at a time. Anyway, as always, hope this helps a bit possibly, and let us know what else you might need to get it done. I find it odd that the kit you got doesn't all work together.
ok i got one end of the ground into the connector and almost 99 percent of the wires (had to be VERY careful). so i just electrical taped the end of the connector to the end of the plastic piece of the uncut wire and slipped the rubber thing over it so you cant tell...seems to work, but now i have to redo the other end which is gonna be a b****.
*phew* alright, well I guess everything's alright, yea It's never fun. but did you manage to get it crimped down alright? Hey another hardware-store item that'd be nice for you at this point would be shrink-wrap. once you get most of your wire in the end, and crimped down, then you just slide a tube of shrink wrap over and hit it with a heatgun/blow-dryer/lighter. It'll look and stay WAY better than electrical tape.
Matthew said:
EEK! umm, you REALLY wanna try to crimp that thing or something anyway. even if you have to lay it flat on the ground and pound in the side with a hammer or something, but make SURE that puppy cannot and willnot ever move. Electrical tape will do precisely nothing to hold it together. Generally those rings are sort of conical shaped, meaning the side you shove the wire into is a bit larger than the one that it rests in. Meaning that over time, the wire will eventually want to work its way out. Large power wires are scary things when they're not doing only what they're intended to. They like to cause fires and such. I know it's tempting to call it good as you've struggled thisfar and made it work, but I really don't want to see you endup with anything but a nice, cleanly installed, good-sounding, and safe system. Do whatever you can to get it crimped somehow. Like I said, alot of times hardware store guys are AWESOME with this kinda thing. They just like to see what kinda crazy stuff us kids like to run, and they've got the stuff make it work right. Sure it's indended for things like grounding rods, etc, but it accomplishes the same thing in the end.
yep
wat speakers are you putting back there? I actually went back to my stocks run off the deck, but if they're 6.5's you're likely going to have to trim back the rings that extend back from the door panel, and then for mounting holes, you'll just need to drill some through. NOTHING ever anywhere will line up with the stock ones.
wat speakers are you putting back there? I actually went back to my stocks run off the deck, but if they're 6.5's you're likely going to have to trim back the rings that extend back from the door panel, and then for mounting holes, you'll just need to drill some through. NOTHING ever anywhere will line up with the stock ones.
well im "moving" the holes on the bostons with my dremmel...the holes are too close to the center and the adapter didnt work so i figure wtf ill just move the holes outward. almost done with number one speaker...this is ridiculous but at least i feel like im making progress.
NX67s...low line bostons, but better than stock at least
NX67s...low line bostons, but better than stock at least
Ah, that works as well as long as it lines up okay, it didn't on my infinity refrences.
Now, l mentioned the rings... make sure to trim back those. They extend backwards form your door panel. or at least check for clearance. If your speakers' surrounds don't fit inside of them (and I doubt they will with any 6.5) You'll need to trim that plastic back enough so that they don't make contact. I think I ended up taking about a half inch off of mine with a dremel, I think most just cut them all the way off.
Bet you're glad you've got a whole weekend to be messing with this stuff now, eH? it's amazing how long it takes for what seems such a simple end-result. Props to you for sticking to it and asking questions and getting it done right.
Now, l mentioned the rings... make sure to trim back those. They extend backwards form your door panel. or at least check for clearance. If your speakers' surrounds don't fit inside of them (and I doubt they will with any 6.5) You'll need to trim that plastic back enough so that they don't make contact. I think I ended up taking about a half inch off of mine with a dremel, I think most just cut them all the way off.
Bet you're glad you've got a whole weekend to be messing with this stuff now, eH? it's amazing how long it takes for what seems such a simple end-result. Props to you for sticking to it and asking questions and getting it done right.
Matthew said:
Nope, don't fret it man, you're cool. The trimming is prettymcuh just so it's got room to move when you're playing music.
Ohyea, Servo. how're those plates coming along? you got any pics bychance? I'd Love to see a real pic of it. I've sketched it out a time or two, but haven't had time to actually do it yet.
tomorrow...I'll have nothing to do tomorrow so they'll get done. We're also haveing a bad cold snap here, which affects my will to complete work, but this should be fairly simple. I just want to remeasure the left side again to make sure I clear the front pop-tab and its support. I didn't the first time that I made that spacer and rotozipped it off. I don't want Matt to have to deal with that.
Also...with the bridge mounting of the tweeter...I just need an easier way to actually mount it and give it an offset, because it just wont fit on the spacer...that doesn't mean I have to make it right over the speaker though. I'll experiment.
Also...with the bridge mounting of the tweeter...I just need an easier way to actually mount it and give it an offset, because it just wont fit on the spacer...that doesn't mean I have to make it right over the speaker though. I'll experiment.
