home from the dyno, results inside

there's not many shops here in Houston, the place i went to packed their shop and moved to Dallas.

What was your base line stock on that dyno?
 
there's not many shops here in Houston, the place i went to packed their shop and moved to Dallas.

What was your base line stock on that dyno?
this was the baseline. I never got around to dynoing it in stock form. i'm just considering it a pre-tune baseline.

regardless, it's still "houston stock"
 
this was the baseline. I never got around to dynoing it in stock form. i'm just considering it a pre-tune baseline.

regardless, it's still "houston stock"

OK, its amazing how results differ on different machines and different days, i have similar go faster mods as you and i got 273.9whp last sept/oct. I dont think for one minute my car is any faster that yours, i just wish dyno's were more consistent.
 
OK, its amazing how results differ on different machines and different days, i have similar go faster mods as you and i got 273.9whp last sept/oct. I dont think for one minute my car is any faster that yours, i just wish dyno's were more consistent.

the whole 17 fall to 11 would be the cause of his lack luster numbers......
 
yes, which is what the fan was doing.

i know the dyno dynamics are pretty conservative dynos, and it was humid(93%) and mildly warm which are all contributing factors.

i will, however, continue to use this dyno because it's where my baseline was done. it'd be silly to go to another shop and gain +- 60whp when i add a downpipe and cobble accessport.

edit:
i should note that after every run i felt the intercooler to make sure it wasn't heatsoaking. the intake side of the intercooler was significantly cooler than the turbo side.

those dynos are not conservative dynos your numbers just suck. Figure out why you boost is maxing and falling low and solve your problem. Also even if it was a hot pull with no cool down your numbers shouldn't be that low. those are stock numbers your putting out there. Me and a bunch of others on different dynos have put out those numbers stock. And since you didnt get any base line runs you REALLY ****** your self cause now you have no idea if you gained or loss anything......
 
those dynos are not conservative dynos your numbers just suck. Figure out why you boost is maxing and falling low and solve your problem. Also even if it was a hot pull with no cool down your numbers shouldn't be that low. those are stock numbers your putting out there. Me and a bunch of others on different dynos have put out those numbers stock. And since you didnt get any base line runs you REALLY ****** your self cause now you have no idea if you gained or loss anything......

key phrase bolded.

each dyno is different and will read differently. i have ever confidence that my "boost problem" will be resolved once i'm accessport'd
 
yep, dyno to dyno is impossible, number set to number set is impossible only if on the same dyno, of course, and to me more exact, within somewhat the same time period, unless it's a notoriously well maintained dyno OR a dynapack ; ) because dyno fall into various states of wear and miscalibration if they are not maintained.

the best bet, and i'm guilty of not doing this myself with the ms3 though i always did it with my honda, is to go get a bone stock baseline at your favorite dyno by which all future mods can be compared. my favorite tuner is Jeff Evans of Evans Tuning in PA (dynapack ftw) and i really should had seen him before i did my intake, but i'll hopefully do that now before i do anything add'l so i have a quasi-baseline.

again, numbers on the 'net really mean nothing because of the varying states of calibration of the numerous types of dynos out there.
 
yes, which is what the fan was doing.

i know the dyno dynamics are pretty conservative dynos, and it was humid(93%) and mildly warm which are all contributing factors.

i will, however, continue to use this dyno because it's where my baseline was done. it'd be silly to go to another shop and gain +- 60whp when i add a downpipe and cobble accessport.

edit:
i should note that after every run i felt the intercooler to make sure it wasn't heatsoaking. the intake side of the intercooler was significantly cooler than the turbo side.

Thanks for your help thats the line I was thinking along exactly! Yes I want to agree with staying consistent with dyno only way be sure about a shift in performance from tuning and bolt ons. Then take her to the track to see what she'll really do! Good luck and thanks again.
 
those dynos are not conservative dynos your numbers just suck. Figure out why you boost is maxing and falling low and solve your problem. Also even if it was a hot pull with no cool down your numbers shouldn't be that low. those are stock numbers your putting out there. Me and a bunch of others on different dynos have put out those numbers stock. And since you didnt get any base line runs you REALLY ****** your self cause now you have no idea if you gained or loss anything......

Sounds like boost leaking. What do you think Darksun?
 
Sounds like boost leaking. What do you think Darksun?

my numbers are relatively consistent with stock numbers(unless someone can prove me otherwise). i'm not suprised i spiked at 17.4 PSI because of the race pipe.
 
Sounds like boost leaking. What do you think Darksun?

Hey I thought my car was fine but my boost kept falling bad. I had one of my friends look over my car to double check my s*** and he found

1. Hot side stock clamp wasn't tight it sure looked it though. (it probably was expanding under boost.)

2. Both nipples on my boost solenoid the zip ties weren't tight at all.

3. My SRI the freaking clamp over the stock inlet pipe was loose (MY dumb ass fault).

I went from a 24 spike to pegging the gauge out on my test pull and the rest is history, check sig......
 
my numbers are relatively consistent with stock numbers(unless someone can prove me otherwise). i'm not suprised i spiked at 17.4 PSI because of the race pipe.

Yeah stock numbers but you have mods.......You got a gremlin man at least thats my opinion. I wouldn't keep adding mods over a problem if you do have one. The only way you'll know for sure is to take the time stock it out and dyno then remod and dyno. Your not going to believe that something is up until some car that you should destroy walks your ass on the highway or whoops you on the track. Like some stock 92 accord or something......
 
Yea I thought you knew 280 I think that something everyone could check easily. Maybe thats a good idea KPms3 just to be sure about the gremlins! No insult to you sir I justed hoped for a little more from those mods
 
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Yea I thought you knew 280 I think that something everyone could check easily. Maybe thats a good idea KPms3 just to be sure about the gremlins! No insult to you sir I justed hoped for a little more from those mods
i'll check over the car this weekend, but i'm pretty confident that everything is a-ok
 
i'll check over the car this weekend, but i'm pretty confident that everything is a-ok

Have some one else check too just for a second eye. My friend found 3 of my boost leaks himself after i looked at the same spots. two zip ties had 3 clicks left in them. I guess i was being too gentle with the vac caps to realize that.
 
Hey I thought my car was fine but my boost kept falling bad. I had one of my friends look over my car to double check my s*** and he found

1. Hot side stock clamp wasn't tight it sure looked it though. (it probably was expanding under boost.)

2. Both nipples on my boost solenoid the zip ties weren't tight at all.

3. My SRI the freaking clamp over the stock inlet pipe was loose (MY dumb ass fault).

I went from a 24 spike to pegging the gauge out on my test pull and the rest is history, check sig......

You do realize you could have your intake completely off and it would not affect your boost one bit? OMFG you're dumb
 
moved to dyno specific sub forum... left a week long re-direct so you don't get lost...
 
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