Higher revving = better gas mileage?

So you are saying that if I go WOT all the way up to 50 and then stay there, every time, that should yield the best mileage? Better than getting up to 50 slowly and staying there?
 
correct (Mythbusters potential, eh?).

WOT (or close to it) to 5th and then minimum gas to hold minimum (safe) speed.
 
Wow, I still can't quite wrap my head around how that would work with all the primitive newtonian equations swirling around in my head, but thanks, I'll have to try that.
 
Again, we are talking efficiency: output per unit of input. Since there are less pumping losses at WOT, there is the most opprtunity to be efficient. In an engine that means more energy to turn the crank-gears-wheels. The limiting factor seems to be very high revs where miriad factors seem to prevent most engines from being most efficient. It is possible the an increase in internal friction or drag through the intake or whatever removes WOT efficiency at high RPMs.
 
P-Funk! said:
WOT (or close to it) to 5th and then minimum gas to hold minimum (safe) speed.

This may be the most efficient way to operate in terms of the output/input ratio, but it's not the most economical way to drive.

Your engine does not need to operate at it's peak output in traffic. Hence you can back off the input also. Sure your engine isn't running at peak efficiency at partial throttle, but you'll use less fuel by easing up to speed, resulting in greater economy.

It's important to differentiate the terms efficiency and economy.
 
Longer dwell in the 'inefficient gears'=more fuel consumed per distance

Get to the efficient gears quickly and then stay in them.
 
You may have been completely right on that. This past tank I drove like that and got 29.5 mpg, 100% city. Basically accelerate moderate-hard, and always cruise in 5th. Next time I'll try being a bit lighter on the gas pedal but still cruise in 5th, and see if that makes a difference.
 
Find the sweet spots rpmwise/gearwise & live it. This car is magical to some extent but if you want 40+ mpg buy a different one. If you want more than 200 useful practical hp buy a different one. If you want one that handles much better then you're s*** outta luck for less than $100k. There isn't one that'll do it all so you have to deal with one thing or another no matter whatcha get.
 
JoshP5 said:
I'll find out in June. My fabulous wife saw fit to bless me with a "driving" weekend in Miata's at Texas World Speedway in College Station as part of an anniversary present. Can't wait.
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
IMO, it's somwewhat of a balancing act on rpms. Too few & build up carbon & make mpg progressively worse. Too much & well just less carbon buildup, sooner on maintenance items & less mpg just because of the nature of things. Somewhere there is a happy medium between the 2 that'll getcha the most mpg & longevity. Sometimes drive like driving test or granny & other times drive it like you stole it & most of the time stay between those. It'll balance out.

For some reason I seem to remember this exact post and live it every day
 
i have heard that driving manual will give you better mileage then auto

does anyone know if manumatic/tiptronic would give better mileage over using fully automatic?
 
Always drive mine in manual mode. Was told that the clutch pressures were higher in manual mode but not sure how much of that I believe. Haven't really compared that to driving in automatic all the time tho.
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
Always drive mine in manual mode. Was told that the clutch pressures were higher in manual mode but not sure how much of that I believe. Haven't really compared that to driving in automatic all the time tho.

Clutch pressures in the Sport Auto box? Automatic gearboxes, no matter how you signal a chnage in gear, have complete mechanical disconnect called a torque converter where the clutch goes in a manual (with clutch pedal) style transmission.

Please do not believe anything about clutch pressures in a automatic transmission.
 
Please don't believe I did. I know the difference. Been driving manual (with clutch pedal, pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing, master cylinder, etc.) since 1975. I guess sarcasm doesn't translate well when typing, sorry.
 
I'm pretty sure the guy who told me clutch pressures actually meant fluid pressure being higher in manual mode. I heard what he said, not what he meant hence the sarcasm thinly disguised as ignorance above. Thanks for playing along tho.................It's not like it really feels any different. Maybe Theman can shed some light on this for us.
 
I know that I get 25-30 and the gas down here in Houston Texas is required to have ethonal in it, which lowers gas mileage. And I always get on it, well most of the time. But I do shift around 4-5 and I get pretty decent mileage. But the only thing I have to compare it to is my old truck where I got 12 mpg which was gay.
 
I know that i get a solid 28-31 mpg's. Completely stock ot3 P5. I have 20XXX miles on the motor, brand new stage II clutch, lightwieght flywheel, new coil packs, wires, and plugs. My buddy with a Ot-3 P5 has 80XXX miles on his. His is lowered, Cold air intake, and Thermal Dynamics exhaust. He gets 33-38 MPG on his. I drive mine like a granny, he drives his like mad. He also is burning a little oil....I do cruise in fifth all the time.(dunno) just some thoughts for everyone.
 
Replying to the original post, I noticed an improvement too and thought it was weird.

I do get better mileage when I drive the car moderately hard than when I baby it.
 
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