Here is another blown motor

if you are going forged.....go with a used engine....

i just bought a 2003 P5 engine with less than 10,000 km for $900 CDN.


1) go with ARP hardware
2) go with a RCC

if you are going to spend some serious cash... then get everything ceramic coated (piston domes, moly lube the skirts, valves, rockers...etc)

I am in the midst of building a new motor as we speak... forged everything and ceramic coated.


JoeP FCD & FPR = death

(plus 4 people in the car at what I would assume was 10+ psi)

I seriously don't understand why you guys take the MSP to such extreme limits.

After 10psi..the stock injectors are firing at 100%.

the FUEL CUT is put there for a reason..... why would you bypass it?

not a flame...but some this won't be the end of blown motor stories...understand how your car truelly operates.
 
this whole deal about people blowing their engines has me confused.
Here's an e-mail from Kevin from Essential Speed. I don't think it's any top secret information since he shared it with me and he does not even know me and only e-mailed me 3-4 times.

"hey we have over 15 customers with 5spd running 12 psi with our kits.
We have wide band tested several different P5' and Mazda Speed's and know
what they require and what boost they can run savely.
The Mazda Speed is severly rich from the factory...for safety and warranty.
With the mazda speed's stage 1&2 kit you are able to run well over 14psi
after you pick up the vortech FMU.
We suggest thr FMU for safety at higher boost..but its not required for 10
psi and below.
The upgrades will not void your warrany ..we have 4 dealers installing the
upgrades themselves,the car is already turboed,you're just helping it to
breath better.
let me know if there is any other questions,
kevin"
 
lower the boost..... what is the Fuel Cut set at? 10 PSI? than...keep it below that.

Invest in a ELECTRONIC boost controller...preferably a Dual Solenoid version to reduce/eliminate boost spike.

Anything past 10 psi....you need to get proper fuel control and/or larger injectors.

How many HPs the FS motor can handle....no one is EXACTLY sure. But terry from spool had been running is turbo'd Mp3 for well years... i think it was in the 230+ whp range..but he had awesome tuning and proper A/F ratios.
 
running anything over stock boost with more then 2 people in the car is just stupid. Sorry bro to piss in your cheerios man, just gotta say it.

ohh, and the injectors are NOT running at 100% duty cycle, at 10 psi. I dont know where you got that information. I ran 12 and with my HKS CAMP system, monitored a 76-83% duty cycle on the stockers.

On to your issue of fixing the wee beastie. I suggest a used engine, forged internals, and do the work yourslef. ITs not that hard, if your moderatly mechanically inclined. The main issus, is to ensure that all the parts are within tolerance, and installed correctly. There are quite a few resources out there explaining rebuilding an engine, to include some of the recent magazine issues. Granted, they are not for the fs engine directly, but Im sure you can find something out there explaining a rebuild on this weak engine.
 
boostisgood said:

ohh, and the injectors are NOT running at 100% duty cycle, at 10 psi. I dont know where you got that information. I ran 12 and with my HKS CAMP system, monitored a 76-83% duty cycle on the stockers.

thank you for the clarification.... but the point remains the same.
 
Mazda won't be exicted about paying for repairs to any part of your powertrain if you've upped the horsepower at all.

More power=more stress on the powertrain.
 
03MSPRO said:
this whole deal about people blowing their engines has me confused.
Here's an e-mail from Kevin from Essential Speed. I don't think it's any top secret information since he shared it with me and he does not even know me and only e-mailed me 3-4 times.

"hey we have over 15 customers with 5spd running 12 psi with our kits.
We have wide band tested several different P5' and Mazda Speed's and know
what they require and what boost they can run savely.
The Mazda Speed is severly rich from the factory...for safety and warranty.
With the mazda speed's stage 1&2 kit you are able to run well over 14psi
after you pick up the vortech FMU.
We suggest thr FMU for safety at higher boost..but its not required for 10
psi and below.
The upgrades will not void your warrany ..we have 4 dealers installing the
upgrades themselves,the car is already turboed,you're just helping it to
breath better.
let me know if there is any other questions,
kevin"

Hmmm mine runs smooth as a kitten at 12 pSI has been for about 30k miles now.

I wonder if the under drive crank pulley was to blame. I know there are those who would say your a FUCKTARD for not using a balancer. But hey sorry to hear about your motor.
It would seem that not all MSP 2.0's are created equal.
Look at poor Jekcy his was left over casting material, then one guy ran his at 16 PSI, on and on it goes doesn't seem to be just one thing that has killed them.
As far as 4 people in the car goes I made the 7hr treck one way to Amarillo and back two times in the 100+ degree weather with 5 people, all 3 of my kids in the car, My wife, Myself and all of our luggage with nary a prob at 12PSI and of course the AC on.
However, I do not beat on my car so most of the time I am not in the boost. In fact I don't think I ever have gotten on it outside of the first 2 gears with my fam in the car and that was just getting on the highway and then shifting into 3rd then 5th and cruising smooth at 70-80MPH.
You could say it's fairly safe to go 80 there isn't much traffic.
And you can see the road ahead for just a bit.
/members/yashooa/speedstraight2.jpg
 
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YP5 Toronto said:
TheMAN....can you clarify what UDP means...please

Under Drive Pulley...I think they are bad news for balance is a good thing :p

Without dampened harmonics you have bad vibrations say, Confushus.
 
TheMAN said:
hahahah... owned by the UDP

oil pump go kaboom anyone?

Oh Hell yeah that's what I thought to. I'll stick to just an exhaust, ECU/FMU, IC replacment, My Lovely little Joey P MBC, and hmmm that's about it.
 
twiztedjeckel said:
wow. somebody's got a chip on his shoulder and a head up his ass tonight. nice seein ya around Dex

Jecky you're so Beautifull you know that don't you? (k) (puke) (k)
 
I've been running 13psi, peaking at 14, for about 2k miles now with no problems. I had a experienced tuner friend of mine help me do all the installs and tuning. I did have very mild detonation at around 6,500rpm's, less severe after i capped off my FPR. My friend said it was less detonation then his Prelude produces on a daily basis. But shifting at 6k has shown no detonation at all so far, and that is when my car starts losing power anyway. The way I figured ended up running such high boost was that neither one of us realized that my Blitz DTT read hkpa instead of psi, so where I thought I was running 9psi I was actually running 13psi. But since I've had no problems I just left it where it is at. But I do have to admit that I don't hit full boost most of the time when I'm driving I try to keep it at a minimum just in case. But I do get on it when need be. Sorry about your motor, hopefully mine will last, but my friend told me if it didn't that he would "rebuild the hell out of it" fo me at no charge.
 
So what boost was this blown engine at? Also, did it blow around 4k (max boost) or closer to redline?
 
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