Help with issues from Greddy RS install please

RC08MS3

Member
:
08 Mazdaspeed 3
Installed my Greddy RS BOV last night, and i think i might have an issue with it. It seems to whistle and close the valve very slowly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZZOuP-xyyg

I adjusted it and it seems to be ok when in high boost, but on low boost it tends to have that "turkey" sound to it. Also if you boost, and shift at around 5k or so, its a very violent shift and feels like someone slammed the brake. now i used to have a 92 Talon TSI, so ive worked a little on boosted cars, but never ran into something like this. It is in VTA, but would that cause all the issues? Any help would be appreciated.
 
CP-E CAI, SU Rear mount, and that'l do it. I just got her like 2 weeks ago and wanted a decent BOV becuase ive heard the stock ones leak at high boost.
 
It holds boost. I started out almost all the way soft to see what it would do and it wouldn't hold boost worth crap, so i started to stiffen it to see if it would take care of the whistle i get from the valve closing slowly. It got to the point were i would get a turkey and had to back it off, but still got the whistle.
 
i have the greddy type-s, i used to get that type of after-whistle but tightening it made it go away. That bov sounds loud, it is recirculaed or vta?

it its vta, its probably the idle coming back up after the blow off keeping the car from stalling. You'll get that if you VTA that greddy.

but is it recirc or vta?
 
I've had both greddy valves. For the rs (I am running that right now in recirc) I have it almost all the way on soft. First thing I did was drive around tightening it time and again, and always seemed to run worse, someone said leave it almost all the way soft and guess what, runs and sounds fantastic
 
it is currently in VTA, and i will try and play around with it some the next couple of weeks to see how it does. but man does the exhaust ****** smell now, dont know what it did to the gas milage though. it is more than half way to the stiff so i will bring it down and see how it fights with me.

appreciate the replies, i couldn't get anything on another forum.
 
i have this valve and mine is towards tight like 5 threads showing and does nothing but sweet woooshes all day.

I would love to have sweet whooshes all day long ;) Wait so its almost all the way on tight but you have about 5 threads showing?? I seem to remember (while ago when I first adjusted it) that the tighter it got the slower it took my turbo to spool and then I got amazing sounding surge. Why does something so bad need to sound so incredible??
 
i dont know. surge is interesting, but i dont get any surge unless its like 3 psi which greddy said is normal. are you running vta lestat13?
 
Nope, I've been vta with different valves, but I'm going recirc with the rs

EDIT: oh yeah, and I was full boosting when I got surge. that made me drive home at about 15mph before I fixed it
 
Teflon tape sounds like a dmn good idea. i hope to get a boost gauge soon so i know what kinda flow ive got goin, but of course mazda didn't wanna give a factory one...

Were would you recommend i hook the feed for the BOV to? should i T the line closer to the Waste gate? or is the stock location fine? I softened the adjustment, and the ride seems to be alot smoother now, no jerking or hard clutches. But i still get the whistle, and its when you clutch and the RPM drops between 2k and 1k.
 
since its VTA i seriously was thinking in your video it was from when you rev and then let off, your engine wants to stall and die because it's in vta mote and the engine does a little idle jump to keep itself alive and that lets out that baby whistle sound. I had that when i ran my type-s vta.

Just because I want to know, how does your run as vta because mine with the greddy type-s the car hates it and backfires to death, gives rough idle and wants to stall. Also what did you plug your recirc hose with???

As far as hooking up a boost guage, you can T into the part that goes to the top of the bov, just cut that and then T into it and the long single end of the the T will go back into the car for your boost guage. Run it through the hole in there firewall where the hood latche cable goes through
 
This is a picture from when I installed my boost gauge. I just made a T off of the vacuum line to the bov, and took that to the control box which I velcro'd onto the battery box. Then just run the wires from the control box into the cabin through the hood pop cable. That's the hardest part

0926081649.jpg
 
Back