Has anyone changed their front lower control arm bushings/ball joints themselves?

[Dimitrios]

Bumpage.

Looking at the Mazda parts list, it seems that the shaft on the lower control arm isn't replaceable (pressed/cast in) but there's a replaceable piece on it (have to get the part number...)

Thoughts otherwise? I'd really hate to replace the arm entirely if the pivot surface is replaceable.

 

[red95_240sx]

yah u have to remove the entire arm, and the pin does run through.

 

[Dimitrios]

So remove the pin, remove the ball joint? Did you replace it?

 

[red95_240sx]

yea. ur removing the whole arm though

 

[Dimitrios]

I'll be doing that anyway as I'm installing Pedders poly bushings as well.

Thanks

 

[Dimitrios]

I had a hell of a time impacting off (never got if off) vertical control arm bolt.

Any thoughts there? I probably need an impact gun with more torque, though I can just see that bolt shearing off...

 

[red95_240sx]

mines wasnt that hard. i used a breaker ratchet.

 

[Dimitrios]

mines wasnt that hard. i used a breaker ratchet.

I guess I need to find a bigger gorilla; holy balls.

 

[red95_240sx]

u cant get the bolt to turn?

 

[Dimitrios]

Update; can't get the right lower control arm off.

The front control arm bolt into which it threads into a welded nut "nut" (#33) (seems like it broke off and just spins; I'll cut it off tomorrow but what a PITA).

 

[red95_240sx]

uummm. i cant remember u shudnt have to cut it.

a BOLT shud come out, and the nut shud stay on

 

[Dimitrios]

uummm. i cant remember u shudnt have to cut it.

a BOLT shud come out, and the nut shud stay on

Agreed; the left bolt came out but the right nut just spins freely. I'm not concerned so about cutting as I am figuring out a way to get it from spinning when I put the new bolt in.

 

[Dimitrios]

I cut the bolt out tonight with an angle grinder and cut off wheel through the front [horizontal] bushing. Rust welded to the nut.

Now I need to replace the bolt, nut, and get something on there that will resist corrosion (yet not be stainless necessarily) and then have it tack welded on.

It's great how a 3-4 hour job turns into 72 hours....

 

[red95_240sx]

on my second attempt, i changed it out horribly fast...like 45 min.

 

[Dimitrios]

As far as replacing the bolt, would you think a class 8.8 should suffice (may as well go to Mazda and get a new bolt)? I need to find a Class 10.2 or 12.1 otherwise (thinking socket head cap screws instead of flange hex, though torquing may be a bit of a problem as I don't have hex bits...).

Yeah, had I even bothered to just unbolt that first I'd never would have had this fiasco.

 

[red95_240sx]

bolt class(scratch) sorry i lack knowledge of that. haha

 

[Dimitrios]

Update (to avoid redundancy)

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4043832&postcount=15

 

[spotthedogg]

So has anybody removed their bushings yet? I took one of my C/Arm off but haven't looked at how to press the stock bushings yet.

 

[Reffoxel]

We tried last night. The bushing with the steel collar around it. What a PITA. Ended up pressing the rubber part out with a socket and then used a hacksaw to cut the collar out by hand. We're still trying to figure out how or what to use to press the Pedder bushing in.

 

[aMaff]

We tried last night. The bushing with the steel collar around it. What a PITA. Ended up pressing the rubber part out with a socket and then used a hacksaw to cut the collar out by hand. We're still trying to figure out how or what to use to press the Pedder bushing in.

maybe a press?