Hard to get in to 2nd gear...
- Thread starter vw mofo
- Start date
For you guys that have manual 5's... Is first gear sometimes a bit tougher to engage than others? This transmission issue has been going on for so long, I can't remember what the heck is normal and what isn't.
I find out today just how good this dealer is with customer service when I bring the damaged wheel and tire to them. I tell ya, if they don't replace the tire AND wheel, you might see a headline on the news about a guy going bezerk inside a Mazda dealership! LOL!
And yes, I still laugh at the walnut thing everytime I tell someone about it. Fricken squirrels!!!
I find out today just how good this dealer is with customer service when I bring the damaged wheel and tire to them. I tell ya, if they don't replace the tire AND wheel, you might see a headline on the news about a guy going bezerk inside a Mazda dealership! LOL!
And yes, I still laugh at the walnut thing everytime I tell someone about it. Fricken squirrels!!!
axisboldaslove
Member
- :
- 07 MS3 GT Heavily Modified
if you need tranny parts for your transmission..i'll have my stuff for picked apart by the end of the day check my signature for my FS thread
As a semi-truck driver I can shed some light as to why it may require somewhat of a tug to get the shifter into first gear. The tug is the syncro trying to spin first gear (the actual gear inside the transmission) to the same speed as the motor in order for it to slide in without grinding (Actually you are spinning a dog up/down to speed...but thats immaterial). In a semi, the transmission has no syncros to match the gear speed to the engine speed. The driver has to do that with his right foot.
Up shifting is easy in a semi. Use the clutch to unload the drivetrain and pull the transmission out of gear. Release the clutch. When the revs have dropped to the point they should be if the next gear was engaged the clutch is used and the shift into the next higher gear occurs smoothly (ideally).
Down shifting is a little bit more complicated. Use the clutch to unload the drivetrain and pull the transmission out of gear. Release the clutch. Rev the motor to the rpm the next lower gear would have the engine reving at. Use the clutch to shift into the lower gear.
This double clutching sound complicated, but once you are used to it its not hard. Actually, most semi drivers dont even use the clutch to shift gears, they use their right foot on the throttle to match engine speed to the next gear.
Now, on to answering the question about the tug needed to get the transmission into first gear. When you are at rest and you push your foot down on the clutch, the first gear is still spinning and needs to be stopped. This takes the syncro for first gear a second or two. While the syncro is stopping the gear you may notice a pause, or a tug needed. Once the gear is stopped it easily slips into gear. If you pressed down on the clutch and waited a second or two you would notice no tug necessary to get it into first gear.
If you are rolling and slowing down coming up to a corner and you want to put the transmission into first gear you can sometimes have quite a tug. If you are rolling even 15-20km/hr and press down on the clutch, the first gear syncro tries to spin first gear up to say 2000-2500 rpm (what ever the engine speed would be in first gear at that speed). It is more difficult for the syncro to speed up a gear than to slow down a gear so the tug is longer. One way to have it slip into first gear easier is to wait until the vehicle is stopped. If you are not going to stop, try using second gear. The second gear syncro will not have to work as hard bringing the gear up to speed because second gear would naturally be spinning slower at a given speed than the first gear would be.
In driving my Mazda 5 I have yet to come to a corner that cannot be taken in second gear. The only time first gear should be used, in my opinion, is when starting from rest. Also, the 5 has a very responsive engine and double clutching a downshift can save the syncros in the transmission. A correctly done double-clutched downshift virtually removes any tug required on the shifter as all the gears inside the transmission are already at the correct speed (or at least very close). Not that you need to do that all the time (or at all) but its a fun way of getting better connected with your vehicle. Yes, you can double-clutch going into first gear to make it easier as well.
Of course it should go without saying that the more you make the syncros work, the quicker they wear out and the tougher it gets over time to get the transmission into the desired gear. Dont force the transmission into gear; let it go into the desired gear with just light pressure on the shifter and be patient. Your transmission will thank you by lasting much longer. It is usually the 1st or 2nd gear syncros that go, not the higher gears because they dont generally have to work as hard.
I hope this helps clarify whats going on inside the transmission. I await the discussion that will follow!
Up shifting is easy in a semi. Use the clutch to unload the drivetrain and pull the transmission out of gear. Release the clutch. When the revs have dropped to the point they should be if the next gear was engaged the clutch is used and the shift into the next higher gear occurs smoothly (ideally).
Down shifting is a little bit more complicated. Use the clutch to unload the drivetrain and pull the transmission out of gear. Release the clutch. Rev the motor to the rpm the next lower gear would have the engine reving at. Use the clutch to shift into the lower gear.
This double clutching sound complicated, but once you are used to it its not hard. Actually, most semi drivers dont even use the clutch to shift gears, they use their right foot on the throttle to match engine speed to the next gear.
Now, on to answering the question about the tug needed to get the transmission into first gear. When you are at rest and you push your foot down on the clutch, the first gear is still spinning and needs to be stopped. This takes the syncro for first gear a second or two. While the syncro is stopping the gear you may notice a pause, or a tug needed. Once the gear is stopped it easily slips into gear. If you pressed down on the clutch and waited a second or two you would notice no tug necessary to get it into first gear.
If you are rolling and slowing down coming up to a corner and you want to put the transmission into first gear you can sometimes have quite a tug. If you are rolling even 15-20km/hr and press down on the clutch, the first gear syncro tries to spin first gear up to say 2000-2500 rpm (what ever the engine speed would be in first gear at that speed). It is more difficult for the syncro to speed up a gear than to slow down a gear so the tug is longer. One way to have it slip into first gear easier is to wait until the vehicle is stopped. If you are not going to stop, try using second gear. The second gear syncro will not have to work as hard bringing the gear up to speed because second gear would naturally be spinning slower at a given speed than the first gear would be.
In driving my Mazda 5 I have yet to come to a corner that cannot be taken in second gear. The only time first gear should be used, in my opinion, is when starting from rest. Also, the 5 has a very responsive engine and double clutching a downshift can save the syncros in the transmission. A correctly done double-clutched downshift virtually removes any tug required on the shifter as all the gears inside the transmission are already at the correct speed (or at least very close). Not that you need to do that all the time (or at all) but its a fun way of getting better connected with your vehicle. Yes, you can double-clutch going into first gear to make it easier as well.
Of course it should go without saying that the more you make the syncros work, the quicker they wear out and the tougher it gets over time to get the transmission into the desired gear. Dont force the transmission into gear; let it go into the desired gear with just light pressure on the shifter and be patient. Your transmission will thank you by lasting much longer. It is usually the 1st or 2nd gear syncros that go, not the higher gears because they dont generally have to work as hard.
I hope this helps clarify whats going on inside the transmission. I await the discussion that will follow!
rweatherford
Member
- :
- Mazda 5
On older GM FWD cars we used to change to Redline MTL. I can't recommend this for Mazdas, but perhaps there is a better fluid than stock.
The other thing is that sometimes the gears stop internally and the gears are not lined up properly to mesh. Slightly letting up on the clutch pedal while pulling will spin the gears just enough to allow the shift when sitting still.
Not sure any of that helps.
The other thing is that sometimes the gears stop internally and the gears are not lined up properly to mesh. Slightly letting up on the clutch pedal while pulling will spin the gears just enough to allow the shift when sitting still.
Not sure any of that helps.
Changing transmission fluid may help shifting action in general (I use Red Line MT-90, but their 75W90NS or one of Amsoil's (forgot which letters) would also be an appropriate replacement), but the fluid is not the reason for the erratic behavior you're experiencing. That erratic behavior is the result of a linkage problem (to include a walnut jammed in the linkage 
), a motor mount issue, or potentially a clutch or clutch linkage/hydraulics issue. The first 2 options are the most likely ones.
My guess is that the walnut(s) that the squirrels were stashing away are not all cleared out of the linkage, but it could be simultaneous motor mount issues as well. The mtx fluid change just demonstrates that someone somewhere is not paying attention to the symptoms described. This would be complicated by the fact that they apparently haven't had it happen to them. Once they feel it and realize you're not insane (you're not, right? ), they should be smart enough to determine that it's linkage, motor mounts, or maybe clutch-related.
), a motor mount issue, or potentially a clutch or clutch linkage/hydraulics issue. The first 2 options are the most likely ones.My guess is that the walnut(s) that the squirrels were stashing away are not all cleared out of the linkage, but it could be simultaneous motor mount issues as well. The mtx fluid change just demonstrates that someone somewhere is not paying attention to the symptoms described. This would be complicated by the fact that they apparently haven't had it happen to them. Once they feel it and realize you're not insane (you're not, right?
), they should be smart enough to determine that it's linkage, motor mounts, or maybe clutch-related.They have replicated the issue and I'm thoroughly convinced that they just don't know what's wrong with my car.
Now we're on to a new issue that was never present. Getting this car into first gear when the transmission is cold is extremely difficult. Get a little heat built up in in and it shifts like a hot knife through butter...
I have to say, if I was a little closer to being right side up on this car it would be history already. I'm done with it. I'm just gonna muscle the thing into first gear through the winter and as soon spring hits and I hit the break even point on my payments, this car is gone.
Now we're on to a new issue that was never present. Getting this car into first gear when the transmission is cold is extremely difficult. Get a little heat built up in in and it shifts like a hot knife through butter...
I have to say, if I was a little closer to being right side up on this car it would be history already. I'm done with it. I'm just gonna muscle the thing into first gear through the winter and as soon spring hits and I hit the break even point on my payments, this car is gone.
