Happy 100k!

[ProtegePower]

I just hit 100k last week, and it's been a fun 7 years. Here's to another 100k and 7 more! (cheers2)

So I'm gearing up for the usual oil change, but also tune up, other cleans/flushes.

I'm only just starting to see that rough idle issue. And I'm not comfortable digging around for the EGR valve myself. Question: is it reasonable to ask my shop to clean the EGR valve, and check the O2 and MAF sensors? Seems like a good thing to do at 100k.

Here's the rest of my 100k laundry list:

Spark plugs
Fuel system clean (BG 44k)
Engine quick clean (BG Quick Clean for Engines)
Transmission flush/fill
Power steering flush/fill
Radiator flush/fill
PCV valve change
Tire rotation/balance
Brake fluid and pads check

 

[slavrenz]

Congrats, man! Start saving up for that timing belt/tension/water pump replacement at 105k miles.

 

[sephiroth]

After taking a look see at my fp-de with just synthetic oil changes at 123k I would say skip the 'engine cleaner' if it goes in your oil. Who knows if that stuff is safe for bearings or similar

 

[ucMP3]

It should just go in the gas, not the oil. Would not be good at all if it went in the oil. lol Even when you do a heavy duty seafoam, you should change your oil very soon after because its not good to have that stuff in your oil.

 

[ProtegePower]

Yeah, the engine quick clean is interesting. You put it in with your old oil, run the engine for 15 minutes, and drain it all immediately afterwards. Definitely not something you leave in there! I did it once before around 50-60k.

 

[ucMP3]

Ya, its the equivalent of seafoam. Thought you were talking about the fuel system cleaner.

 

[slavrenz]

Every 5,000 miles when I change my oil, I buy a can of seafoam and put 1/3 in my gas tank, 1/3 in my vacuum lines to clean out deposits in my intake, and 1/3 in my crankcase for about 50 miles before the oil change. I haven't had any problems in 20,000 miles and the inside of my crankcase looks like the day it came from the factory.

Oh, and I'm averaging 32 miles per gallon on the highway right now during my daily commute.

 

[Mike R]

my 205K mile motor looks perfect inside.... Never did any seafoam or anything to it. Original timing belt.


The EGR is on the throttle body. Pretty easy to get to and find. Just follow the steel pipe on the driver side of the motor that comes of fthe exhaust manifold and you will see it.

Check the o2 and maf? You have a computer that tells you when there is an issue. They will probably just plug a scanner in and read the codes, if that-which can be done at any parts store for free. The rough idle could just be old sparkplugs or bad wires.

 

[ProtegePower]

Awesome tips mike, thanks! Makes a ton of sense! And that's insane your timing belt has held up. I've needed it replaced twice. (Maybe the first time was a different belt, I forget.)

 

[corner-hard]

Thats sweet dude! Glad to see that the mazda has been a faithful ride!

 

[FourMazdas]

Just did the timing belt, tensioner, idler and water pump at 110,000. Must say I was surprised at the good condition of the belt. Depending on driving habits I could see how it could last 200,000 but I wouldn't want to risk it.

 

[Patio]

I'm about to hit 100k and I think I'm burning oil internally

 

[TWISFM]

^^^ We all are...

 

[sephiroth]

Every 5,000 miles when I change my oil, I buy a can of seafoam and put 1/3 in my gas tank, 1/3 in my vacuum lines to clean out deposits in my intake, and 1/3 in my crankcase for about 50 miles before the oil change. I haven't had any problems in 20,000 miles and the inside of my crankcase looks like the day it came from the factory.

Oh, and I'm averaging 32 miles per gallon on the highway right now during my daily commute.

yeah... just something about putting low-grade solvent in an area that's supposed to be well lubricated makes me stear clear from running it in the crankcase, espically driving it. my .02