Haltech Generic Duty Map

The Cooling System at 100%.

Checking For Leaks

Making sure that the system will not create cavitation in the coolant.

 
The Map has been updated.

Mobne_s13 said:
What type/model of solid state relay did you use for the pump?
I need some sort of modelname/id number.

Could you upload the temp/duty cycle 3d map that's working for you?
Would help me out a lot!

Thanks in advance.

http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Solid-State-Relay-HT030202.pdf
Wiring Diagram

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Haltech-Soli...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c90059f6
Relay Part

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Pull-Up-Resi...210?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b4f43622
Pull Up Resistor Part


Here is a screen capture of the map

There is a ZERO Spot at 0 Vac when cold so that the pump does not turn when the car is cold but the key is on.
This lets you upload and edit a map without killing the main battery.

I found that I needed to have an aggressive slope for when on Boost to offset the heat that is generated.

Cruising requires very little cooling.

You Can Not use this in conjunction with a mechanical thermostat. Please don't be insulted but I need to stress this to be 100% sure.
The Variable pump IS the Heat Control

Note: The Power that feeds the pump and fans is on a third relay that is activated by the ignition "RUN and START" positions. If you do not do this the pump and fan will go to 100% with the key out.

(Standard BOSH) when there is no power, a Solid state relay will go 100% On.


The Pump Relay is triggered off of DP#18 50Hz Never go below 2% Duty Cycle because you do not want the pump to stop turning, It will make hot spots and kill the motor FAST
I have a second relay controlling the fans. DP#17 Set to come on at 90C 0% and and 105C 100% Setting at 40Hz

DutyCycle.jpg
 

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