Haltech Generic Duty Map

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Background:

Belt Driven Water Pump turns at the Speed Of the Engine. The time you need it the most (Stopped at a Light) it is turning the least. The Time when you need it the least, (Blasting down the highway with full air passing the radiator) it is at maximum.

A water pump robs HORSEPOWER, it is a Draw on the crank through the Belt.
A alternator robs HORSEPOWER, it is a Draw on the crank through the Belt.

An Electric Water Pump robs the same as belt driven Water Pump unless... it is only on as much as needed.

A normal cooling system has a thermostat to allow the engine to maintain a set temperature. The coolant is always flowing very quickly and as required the thermostat opens to let some cool off in the rad. If the engine gets hotter, more coolant is passed through the radiator.

MP5T:

Has No Thermostat or Heater Core.
100% Of the coolant must travel through the radiator.
normally that would mean that the car would never reach an operating temperature unless it was very very warm outside.

The Haltech knows what the engine temperature is and can control an output known as a Digital Pulsed Output. (Duty Cycle)

It is a variable output based on a table.

I am using the speed of the pump to replace the thermostat.

Every ounce of power that can go to the wheels will go there and only what electricity is required to run the coolant pump will.

It also lets me unload the pump in times of extreme throttle position (When I am Accelerating hard, less power is used by the pump and more is allowed to go to the wheels)

A Screen capture of ECU Management. This Map is what I designed to control the Electric Cooling System in the Mazda Protege 5 Turbo. It Has TPS and CTS as X and Y. The Z is the Pump Duty Cycle. If there is a large application of Throttle, the pump reduces in speed leaving more HP to make the car move. Once the acceleration is done, the pump returns to normal. The Large hump seen in the near area is to check the pump before starting the car. I can turn on the ignition and push the TPS to 20% with the engine cold. This should make the pump run up to 60% and clear out any air trapped in the system before the car is started.

 

[Kooldino]

This is really smart.

To me, the difference between turning the extra pulley vs the alternator doing more work is negligible.

The true genius here is the fact that it gives you the same advantage as running an electric fan instead of a belt driven one - the fact that your cooling is not dictated by engine speed. You can now control that pump and make it cool better at idle, you can turn it off completely to force the car to warm up faster (although that is kind of a combination between that and your thermostat), etc.

Really cool idea. Way to think outside of the box.

I reckon you can also use that haltech driver to control water meth or even a boost control solenoid.

 

[Spiced MSP]

pretty cool

 

[AusOrion]

Excellent! I have been waiting for this write-up for a while now
Great start Brian.

While there will always be arguments as to whether or not running an electric water pump will give significant power gains the greatest benefit is obivously removing the dependency of the water pump on engine speed.

The Haltech obviously gives a great amount of control in the form of a RPM vs CTS map. I intend to go with an electric water pump but I will be using a slightly "dumber" unit to control the water pump (as well as my electric fans). Here is what I want to use:
http://diftech.com/dif-thermostatic-pwm-true-variable-speed-electric-fan-controller-black.html

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

The Level of support is INSANE. I have been getting awesome help from Haltech HQ

I literally explained what I wanted.

They Made it for me...

This was something that I proposed to them in an email.

I drafted up a fairly detailed plan and when they updated the Firmware, it was available for me to use. (And others)​

 

[Spiced MSP]

that's pretty sweet.

 

[Protege03ak46]

Get a clutched alternator pulley while your at it

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Can't

I would get a voltage drop and everything would start to suck

I run 15.5 volts, that would drop low as soon as the clutch was turned on

 

[Protege03ak46]

Absolutely, didn't realize your equipment is that sensitive. Most cars will run fine as long as they get atleast 10.5v

 

[AusOrion]

Are you going to run the PWM signal through a solid state resistor (SSR) on the ground side of the electric water pump? And therefore have a constant (or switched) 12v on the positive side?

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Are you going to run the PWM signal through a solid state resistor (SSR) on the ground side of the electric water pump? And therefore have a constant (or switched) 12v on the positive side?

The system requires several relays to operate

The power that is sent to the relay is supplied by a relay that is key controlled in the A position ( ACC and RUN, Not START)

If not, the shut would never turn off with the key out​

 

[AzteCypher]

Subbin for real good info.

 

[AusOrion]

The system requires several relays to operate

The power that is sent to the relay is supplied by a relay that is key controlled in the A position ( ACC and RUN, Not START)

If not, the shut would never turn off with the key out

I would agree that you would not generally want 12v supplied constantly to the pump, there are some advantages to having power available after the key is removed - such as being able to run the pump to continue cooling similar to a turbo timer.

By running the PWM signal along on the ground side of the pump, it also means that a smaller SSR can be used because the power running through it would be lower.

Where are you going to be mounting the water pump?

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Are you going to run the PWM signal through a solid state resistor (SSR) on the ground side of the electric water pump? And therefore have a constant (or switched) 12v on the positive side?

The system requires several relays to operate

The power that is sent to the relay is supplied by a relay that is key controlled in the A position ( ACC and RUN, Not START)

If not, the shut would never turn off with the key out​

 

[AusOrion]

The pump is running after the exit and before where the thermostqat would be.

I have plans to install a switch that would force the fump and one fan to 100%. it would let me drop the temperature of the engine as I am getting ready to pull into my driveway to park. Lets say the last 1 minute of my drive home.

Ahh. I was also wondering where you would physically be mounting the pump. i.e. behind the passenger headlight?

Thats a nice simple (but effective) way of doing a cooldown.

The unit I have has a signal input for when the a/c comes on (not that this is problem for you) and ramps out the load to 50%
It also has an input that turns the fans/pump on to 100%.
It is supposed to do a 2 minute cooldown after the key is removed but I hear that it doesn't work so well on my unit

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Ahh. I was also wondering where you would physically be mounting the pump. i.e. behind the passenger headlight?

Thats a nice simple (but effective) way of doing a cooldown.

The unit I have has a signal input for when the a/c comes on (not that this is problem for you) and ramps out the load to 50%
It also has an input that turns the fans/pump on to 100%.
It is supposed to do a 2 minute cooldown after the key is removed but I hear that it doesn't work so well on my unit

Do you still have a thermostat?

 

[AusOrion]

Do you still have a thermostat?

Well, I will say upfront that I am still building my engine so I have some of this stuff (i.e. the PWM controller) but I am still planning other bits or researching parts.

My intention is have two AN-16 ports welded onto a water pump core (with the pulley and impeller removed). With this setup the coolant will move through the engine pretty much as it would with the stock and so I would retain the thermostat to aid in the engine warm-up process.

The PWM controller runs at a minimum 20% load (no matter what the coolant temp is) and then adjusts the load to try and maintain a pre-set temperature level, which can be adjusted.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Here is the Cooling System that is planed for the MP5T..

It requires the following parts.

Electric Cooling Pump
Solid State Relay x2 (Fans and Pump)
Haltech SP500/PS1000/PS2000 Standalone ECU
Coolant Temp Sensor
AluminumAN16 Weld On Fittings X4
Aluminum AN4 Weld In Fittings x2
Blanking Plate on Coolant inlet and Outlets
Gutted Stock Pump (No Blanking Plate as the Timing Belt Idler sits on it)

The basic idea is simple.

This car has no mechanical thermostat, No Heater Core and No Primary Coolant Loop
This works only because the coolant must pass the radiator.
The temperature is maintained by actively and precisely adjusting the speed of the pump based on the program.

 

[SaUcE]

Very very cool stuff.

 

[AzteCypher]

Holy Crap!! That will be one bullet proof cooling system. Great work.