Haltech and Closed Loop Control

So as I understand it, Ahmad actually has it up and runnign 100% now?

Can you write up a quick how-to with wire connections and software settings to share with the rest of us?
 
ELEmental59437 said:
Do you know which other corrections need to be disabled? I took off the barometric pressure lock and still do not idle in closed loop. Thanks

i do not sadly. i tried a number of combinations and the instructions from haltech were less than helpful. the manual itself simply states "if some other correction factors are used, closed loop o2 will not work"
 
jrodhotrod said:
So as I understand it, Ahmad actually has it up and runnign 100% now?

Can you write up a quick how-to with wire connections and software settings to share with the rest of us?

In everything other than idle it is running 100%. I am going to give Haltech a call soon with this question and see what they say. I tried the barrometric correction disable, with calibrating the internal barrometric sensor but still nothing.

When I have this all working I will write a how-to up if there is demand. I will pull apart my harness and take pics of how I wired it, and screen shots of the settings.

For tuning, this can come in handy. Set the closed look to work on all throttly positions and adjust to 13.5 or wherever you want to be under boost. Then look at the log and adjust your map to the corrections made at different RPM ranges and throttle positions. Then set the closed loop to work under 25% throttly and adjust to 14.7 and adjust the maps for what is seen off of boost. It may take some time but in theory you should end up with a perfectly tuned map in the end.
 
I will be doing the same once I have mine running again.
 
I think I just stumbled across the problem while looking at my map tonight on my home PC. More information tomorrow after I load this map and try it.
 
SOLUTION FOUND!

I noticed that the TPS readout was fluxuating between 0-2% at idle. This led me to believe that the Haltech was never truely at 0% idle for more than a second or two at a time when completly off the gas. I recalibrated the TPS with the gas pedal depressed slightly - enough to raise the TPS calibration starting point 2-3 points. As soon as this was done, the closed loop at idle was working perfectly.

Barometric pressure lock and settings have nothing to do with closed loop idle. The only thing that would affect the closed loop at idle would possibly be if you had a zero throttle map - but I have not confirmed this as I have no need for one yet, mine is disabled.

I will post a picture of how the haltech and AEM WBO2 are wired together as soon as I take it apart to get a picture. Below are the screen shots of the settings I used - I did not include anything on barometric pressure since it had no effect on my closed loop operation when messing with it.



closedloop.gif




throttlecalibration.gif



inputoutput.gif
http://vividyellow.com/closedloop.gif
 
Thanks for the info, so the key was in re-calibrating the TPS?

Look forward to the full write-up with pictures :D I'll be doing this handy little addition with my AEM wideband before too long.
 
Couldn't you have manually typed in the different numbers?
 
yes, he just had to recalibrate the TPS sensor so at idle he'd see the right position... because before when he was off the accel, it was showing 2% or so. so he changed the 2% to now be 0% :)
 
right, my point is making sure he knows he doesn't actually have to use the pedal to recalibrate the TPS sensor, the values can be entered.
 
oh yeah, where is me brain. Dude, that's totally awesome you got this solved. Nothing like getting rid of a problem like this. The joy helps counter the many moments of annoyance, eh?
 
I just realized you can just enter new values, but you have to click "Set" twice anyways before "ok" becomes active. Either way works I guess. I did this on the carputer, and the mouse and accelerator is a lot easier to use than the keyboard.

pdhAudio83, just to clear it up, I didnt just recalibrate it, because if I did a normal calibration like it says to in the manual I would still get the 0-2% TPS at idle, thats just the way it always ended up when I calibrated it. Adjusting the numbers higher ensured that the variance of about 2% wasnt ever seen since it was below the "low" number.
 
Does anyone know if you can hook in the stock narrowband wire to the Haltech for closed loop control?
 
Well, that's what the stock ECU was using for closed loop right? I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as the Haltech is expecting a NB input.
 
Doesn't the signal of the narrowbands only oscallate due to the stock ECU attempting to control the A/F ratio? Since it no longer has control of the injectors or ignition coils, then the signal would be usable by other sources? The only question left is if the O2 sensors need some type of controller box, or do they only need power?
 

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