pHeeL tHiZ ViBe
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed6
haha forged for sure! no way i would slap a turbo on without that first, let alone a turbo that big!
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gt3076r runing as of 9-28-07
- Thread starter MS6mike
- Start date
jcgemt2003
Member
- :
- 06 speed6
its estimated power and an estimated weight done by this calculator: http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/horsepower_calculator.htm, obviously it cant add factors like temperature, tire psi, 60ft times and thats why its an estimate.
Also the GT3076r flows alot more power and cfm then the gt3071r. And they only make similar power levels when the 3076r is operating on lower boost. After 22psi the 3076r shines and can make a little over 525hp at its maximum boost level
Thats all fine and dandy but he ran that 12.8 on his stock turbo bro....as did I run my 12.9 on the stock turbo at 18psi with 268whp....and yes I know that its an estimate....but I was giving you real life numbers....
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- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
Purchase everything separately and have your local Mazdatech do the work to build your current block bottom end. Unless you know how to use a cherry picker and pull the motor yourself and do all the work, it's going to be expensive regardless on just labor.
unless you are really buddy buddy with a mazda mechanic i guarantee you buying all the parts separate and having the dealer do it will cost you as much or more as buying one of our motors.
i would be willing to build an old motor, however i would only feel comfortable doing so after a machine shop inspects the engine and does - if need be - a bore and hone, which i would charge for.
unless you are really buddy buddy with a mazda mechanic i guarantee you buying all the parts separate and having the dealer do it will cost you as much or more as buying one of our motors.
i would be willing to build an old motor, however i would only feel comfortable doing so after a machine shop inspects the engine and does - if need be - a bore and hone, which i would charge for.
Agreed, I don't trust the mazda techs....... unless he happens to be my homeboy and will hook me up on the price.
I'd just as soon spend the 5k and buy one of the built motors from you. and go to my buddy's shop to have him help me drop it in (thumb)
now i dont have nearly as much experience with this specific engine as some of you, but i do have alot of experience elsewhere, and it seems this engine is in the same boat as MANY f/i engines out there.
WEAK stock cooling and an inefficient turbo means either
A. stick with close to stock boost levels, upgrade to a more efficient intercooler (preferably front mount due to heat soak) and take advantage of the boost you are already making instead of adding more.
B. upgrade to a larger turbo, and a front mount or very efficient top mount at the least.
90% of the time on a forced induction engine it isn't power that kills it it is bad tuning, or just high temps in general causing detonation/knock. I dont care what kind of rods you have eventually with alot of knock running high cylinder pressures you are GOING TO BREAK s***. this is not a generality, this is FACT on all engines. 15 psi out of that weak ass top mount that already has major disadvantages when it comes to heat soak, along with it being air-liquid (more heat soak issues) leads me to believe ALOT of you modded guys are detonating grande style. This guy blew his motor because of major tune issues, not much else. I'd be comfortable betting you that you guys would be very impressed by a more efficient turbo with a big front mount and a great tune and it would run for a looong time. it sounds to me like because some people went down the wrong path mod wise (learn from it, dont let it make you afraid) you guys think all your motors are gonna grenade. Well that's what people used to think about the car i currently drive (2006 4.0 v6 mustang). Now we have more than 3 cars running 11's on stock blocks/trannies and one in the 10's consistently on the stock block....MANY in the 12's. Hell one guy was making almost 600 ft lbs on a 75 shot and 15 psi from a big snail for over a year before he blew the #7 piston spraying WAAAY to early (window switch broke). This is with hypereutectic pistons that people were blowing with vortech's on 10 psi at 310rwhp. You know what made the difference? A good tune, and cooling mods.
all of you-
DO THOSE FIRST. boost control = last thing you want to do safety wise on any turbo car. Do cooling and exhaust mods first and you will see good gains, much more safely. Its amazing to me to see how many people do the opposite when i dont even own a forced induction car and i preach this daily to all the ricers at my school driving turbo hondas at 7 psi with no intercooler and new motors within a month.
WEAK stock cooling and an inefficient turbo means either
A. stick with close to stock boost levels, upgrade to a more efficient intercooler (preferably front mount due to heat soak) and take advantage of the boost you are already making instead of adding more.
B. upgrade to a larger turbo, and a front mount or very efficient top mount at the least.
90% of the time on a forced induction engine it isn't power that kills it it is bad tuning, or just high temps in general causing detonation/knock. I dont care what kind of rods you have eventually with alot of knock running high cylinder pressures you are GOING TO BREAK s***. this is not a generality, this is FACT on all engines. 15 psi out of that weak ass top mount that already has major disadvantages when it comes to heat soak, along with it being air-liquid (more heat soak issues) leads me to believe ALOT of you modded guys are detonating grande style. This guy blew his motor because of major tune issues, not much else. I'd be comfortable betting you that you guys would be very impressed by a more efficient turbo with a big front mount and a great tune and it would run for a looong time. it sounds to me like because some people went down the wrong path mod wise (learn from it, dont let it make you afraid) you guys think all your motors are gonna grenade. Well that's what people used to think about the car i currently drive (2006 4.0 v6 mustang). Now we have more than 3 cars running 11's on stock blocks/trannies and one in the 10's consistently on the stock block....MANY in the 12's. Hell one guy was making almost 600 ft lbs on a 75 shot and 15 psi from a big snail for over a year before he blew the #7 piston spraying WAAAY to early (window switch broke). This is with hypereutectic pistons that people were blowing with vortech's on 10 psi at 310rwhp. You know what made the difference? A good tune, and cooling mods.
all of you-
DO THOSE FIRST. boost control = last thing you want to do safety wise on any turbo car. Do cooling and exhaust mods first and you will see good gains, much more safely. Its amazing to me to see how many people do the opposite when i dont even own a forced induction car and i preach this daily to all the ricers at my school driving turbo hondas at 7 psi with no intercooler and new motors within a month.
staples187
Member
- :
- 2007 MazdaSpeed 3
The only reason why I said Mazda to install it was because they'll actually warranty the work done. If there's any issues in the future and you had them install it then it's their responsibility to fix whatever issues you have without charging you. I got a quote for a clutch install of $200 (family works for the dealership). Around my area they seem to know what they're doing since they pulled my friends MS3 engine apart and rebuilt it in 2 days due to engine/tranny issues.
- :
- MazdaSpeed 6
im pretty sure any good performance shop warrenty's there work..
pHeeL tHiZ ViBe
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed6
now i dont have nearly as much experience with this specific engine as some of you, but i do have alot of experience elsewhere, and it seems this engine is in the same boat as MANY f/i engines out there.
WEAK stock cooling and an inefficient turbo means either
A. stick with close to stock boost levels, upgrade to a more efficient intercooler (preferably front mount due to heat soak) and take advantage of the boost you are already making instead of adding more.
B. upgrade to a larger turbo, and a front mount or very efficient top mount at the least.
90% of the time on a forced induction engine it isn't power that kills it it is bad tuning, or just high temps in general causing detonation/knock. I dont care what kind of rods you have eventually with alot of knock running high cylinder pressures you are GOING TO BREAK s***. this is not a generality, this is FACT on all engines. 15 psi out of that weak ass top mount that already has major disadvantages when it comes to heat soak, along with it being air-liquid (more heat soak issues) leads me to believe ALOT of you modded guys are detonating grande style. This guy blew his motor because of major tune issues, not much else. I'd be comfortable betting you that you guys would be very impressed by a more efficient turbo with a big front mount and a great tune and it would run for a looong time. it sounds to me like because some people went down the wrong path mod wise (learn from it, dont let it make you afraid) you guys think all your motors are gonna grenade. Well that's what people used to think about the car i currently drive (2006 4.0 v6 mustang). Now we have more than 3 cars running 11's on stock blocks/trannies and one in the 10's consistently on the stock block....MANY in the 12's. Hell one guy was making almost 600 ft lbs on a 75 shot and 15 psi from a big snail for over a year before he blew the #7 piston spraying WAAAY to early (window switch broke). This is with hypereutectic pistons that people were blowing with vortech's on 10 psi at 310rwhp. You know what made the difference? A good tune, and cooling mods.
all of you-
DO THOSE FIRST. boost control = last thing you want to do safety wise on any turbo car. Do cooling and exhaust mods first and you will see good gains, much more safely. Its amazing to me to see how many people do the opposite when i dont even own a forced induction car and i preach this daily to all the ricers at my school driving turbo hondas at 7 psi with no intercooler and new motors within a month.
i honestly stopped reading this ramble. sorry dude (laugh). /handsthemanacapt.obviousaward
i honestly stopped reading this ramble. sorry dude (laugh). /handsthemanacapt.obviousaward
yea thanks for that. It's too bad it's obvious because that just makes half this forum look retarded.
fourthmeal
Banned
Do you even have an MS3 / MS6???
None of that made sense. This is an AIR to AIR Intercooler my man. We don't have cooling issues like most cars. We have DISI, which negates most of the detonation issues (not ALL, naturally), we have a throttle plate that tends to control itself. We have a pig-rich fuel trim. We have a cam-driven fuel pump that tends to be too weak for its own good, and thus will run the engine lean the second it gets overworked.
I have a lot of experience with turbo cars too (mostly older Supras), and damnit this car really has nothing to do with them. I don't mean to sound derogatory to you, so don't take it that way. But, you're going to have to throw out a lot of standard logic on this one, and embrace new theories.
None of that made sense. This is an AIR to AIR Intercooler my man. We don't have cooling issues like most cars. We have DISI, which negates most of the detonation issues (not ALL, naturally), we have a throttle plate that tends to control itself. We have a pig-rich fuel trim. We have a cam-driven fuel pump that tends to be too weak for its own good, and thus will run the engine lean the second it gets overworked.
I have a lot of experience with turbo cars too (mostly older Supras), and damnit this car really has nothing to do with them. I don't mean to sound derogatory to you, so don't take it that way. But, you're going to have to throw out a lot of standard logic on this one, and embrace new theories.
now i dont have nearly as much experience with this specific engine as some of you, but i do have alot of experience elsewhere, and it seems this engine is in the same boat as MANY f/i engines out there.
WEAK stock cooling and an inefficient turbo means either
A. stick with close to stock boost levels, upgrade to a more efficient intercooler (preferably front mount due to heat soak) and take advantage of the boost you are already making instead of adding more.
B. upgrade to a larger turbo, and a front mount or very efficient top mount at the least.
90% of the time on a forced induction engine it isn't power that kills it it is bad tuning, or just high temps in general causing detonation/knock. I dont care what kind of rods you have eventually with alot of knock running high cylinder pressures you are GOING TO BREAK s***. this is not a generality, this is FACT on all engines. 15 psi out of that weak ass top mount that already has major disadvantages when it comes to heat soak, along with it being air-liquid (more heat soak issues) leads me to believe ALOT of you modded guys are detonating grande style. This guy blew his motor because of major tune issues, not much else. I'd be comfortable betting you that you guys would be very impressed by a more efficient turbo with a big front mount and a great tune and it would run for a looong time. it sounds to me like because some people went down the wrong path mod wise (learn from it, dont let it make you afraid) you guys think all your motors are gonna grenade. Well that's what people used to think about the car i currently drive (2006 4.0 v6 mustang). Now we have more than 3 cars running 11's on stock blocks/trannies and one in the 10's consistently on the stock block....MANY in the 12's. Hell one guy was making almost 600 ft lbs on a 75 shot and 15 psi from a big snail for over a year before he blew the #7 piston spraying WAAAY to early (window switch broke). This is with hypereutectic pistons that people were blowing with vortech's on 10 psi at 310rwhp. You know what made the difference? A good tune, and cooling mods.
all of you-
DO THOSE FIRST. boost control = last thing you want to do safety wise on any turbo car. Do cooling and exhaust mods first and you will see good gains, much more safely. Its amazing to me to see how many people do the opposite when i dont even own a forced induction car and i preach this daily to all the ricers at my school driving turbo hondas at 7 psi with no intercooler and new motors within a month.
pHeeL tHiZ ViBe
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed6
yea thanks for that. It's too bad it's obvious because that just makes half this forum look retarded.
?? what is your IQ seriously i'm curious
?? what is your IQ seriously i'm curious
127 average of all the tested types of intelligence when i took the test. Highest was i believe a 132, lowest was around 105 why do you ask? I have been on the msp forums, these forums, etc. and i see MANY people with boost control with no form of tuning. That's not a great idea in ANY car let alone an msp or ms6/3. Obviously, it wasn't too obvious because you are following suit...
since it wasn't obvious enough for you even though you feel like being a smart ass and talking about how obvious everything i said was-
1. do cooling mods first, you will gain power just like everything else, you will need them eventually and they may save you in the long run.
2. don't get # greedy, and never turn up the boost without a tune. Is 15whp worth increasing your risk of internal engine component failure even by 5%?
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2. don't get # greedy, and never turn up the boost without a tune. Is 15whp worth increasing your risk of internal engine component failure even by 5%?
Yes....... LMAO
J/K
Seriously though I would only do something like that if I was having a "hp war" to win a dyno contest at some competition. But alas that's not something you should be attempting with your daily driver, more like a project/race car
chriscecc914
Member
- :
- 06 MS6
there is plenty of fuel to add 2-3 psi of boost without a tune. You can even take it to a dyno after you add the boost and get your a/f read for safety.
pHeeL tHiZ ViBe
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed6
127 average of all the tested types of intelligence when i took the test. Highest was i believe a 132, lowest was around 105 why do you ask? I have been on the msp forums, these forums, etc. and i see MANY people with boost control with no form of tuning. That's not a great idea in ANY car let alone an msp or ms6/3. Obviously, it wasn't too obvious because you are following suit...
since it wasn't obvious enough for you even though you feel like being a smart ass and talking about how obvious everything i said was-
1. do cooling mods first, you will gain power just like everything else, you will need them eventually and they may save you in the long run.
2. don't get # greedy, and never turn up the boost without a tune. Is 15whp worth increasing your risk of internal engine component failure even by 5%?
HAHA noob, i haven't changed my boost!! (boobs) rofl. if you read these threads you would know that i agree, an ECM is more important to me than a MBC. also a FMIC is more important to me than a turbo upgrade. so i don't know what your talking about.
and on top of that, i have modded my car to lower exhaust temperatures extremely and intake temps also (if only pre-turbo, it doesn't hurt)
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