Greddy BOV w/ NO Stalling

[TX Speed Demon]

Since a lot of people have been asking me how to do this, here's a quick write up.

Tools needed:
7/64th hex wrench/screwdriver thingy (see pic)
pliers - you can use 10mm socket wrench instead, but you'll need to remove the stock airbox to access the stop nut.

Step 1: Loosen the stop nut on top of your greddy by turning it counter clockwise (left)

Step 2: Place your 7/64 hex thingy in the top of your valve adjustment screw

Step 3: Tighten your valve adjustment screw by turning clockwise (right).

Here is where you should test your car at idle. Rev it up a few times and set it off. Tighten and/or loosen the adjustment screw untill it blows off at a setting you like with the amount of stalling you prefer.

Step 4: Retighten you stop nut and go for a test drive.

How much you tighten is up to you.

I tightened it until there were about 5 threads left showing on top of the stop nut when tightened (step 4). I now have NO stalling issues. The car will blow off under idle and the RPMs will drop till around 900-700 then stop dead. No more bouncing, no more stalling, no nothing.

When driving it blows off very quitely under 2500 RPMs, or 2500-3500 RPMs with no acceleration, and doesn't stall.

Under heavy load or high boost it blows off VERY loud, the RPMs drop to around 700-900 and stop. No stalling, no bouncing, nothing.

What happens is the valve spring is now tight enough to reseal itself early enough to prevent an excess amount of air from escaping. When you watch mine under heavy load conditions once the valve blows off the RPMs drop, then it seems to hitch for a split second around 1500 RPMs on its way down before stopping around 700-900 RPMs. My guess is the valve now closes at 1500 RPMs and the time from 1500RPMs -700RPMs is enough for the air pressure to equalize, or for the new air to work it's way through the system.

So now I have no stalling issues or turkey issues, just a clean loud greddy whistle and psssst.

Any questions?

 

[Mark94]

Would this theory work for an HKS SS BOV?

I've been stalling with my HKS and I've tried loosening the screw and quickly tried tightening the screw but nothing seems to work.

Anybody know how far the screw should be in on an HKS?

Thanks for any help....

Mark

 

[TX Speed Demon]

Yes this will work the same on the HKS SS or any adjustable BOV. You just need to tighten your HKS some more. For me, I tightened the greddy about 6-8 full rotations from the stock setting to get it where I wanted.

JDM Sam has the HKS SS on his Speed with no stalling issues.

 

[505zoom]

...So now I have no stalling issues or turkey issues, just a clean loud greddy whistle and psssst.

Any questions?

Good job man, sounds like you got off easy compared to some of us.

... You just need to tighten your HKS some more...

I tightened my SSQV from one extreme to the other and stalled at every setting. After adding the stock BPV back to the system, it will not stall at any setting. I think that our cars being basically built at the ports is the reason for all of these inconsistencies from msp to msp.

 

[TX Speed Demon]

I tightened my SSQV from one extreme to the other and stalled at every setting. After adding the stock BPV back to the system, it will not stall at any setting. I think that our cars being basically built at the ports is the reason for all of these inconsistencies from msp to msp.

Hmmmm.. Don't know what to tell you. I never worked with JDM Sam on putting the HKS on his car. I have seen it since then and when he revs it up at idle it blows off nice and hard and doesn't want to stall. I haven't ridden with him since the install on the hardpipe though, only seen it at local meets. Perhaps using the different outlet fins for the HKS would make a difference? Or perhaps you had a vacume leak using the stock source for your HKS? Either way you've got a good set up for yourself now that works

EDIT: I remember Sam sayign the ECU took a while to learn how to work with the HKS, perhaps time is the biggest factor in getting it to run correctly.

With mine, I ran the Greddy for about 2 months of stalling before I gave up on letting the ECU figure out the problem. After a few minutes of tinkering and a few test runs I got this solution. I've been running this way for about 2 weeks now without one stall.

Perviously the car would bounce/want to stall whenever I went to neutral at anything over 2500 RPMs. It would happen at least 2-3 times a day, now it's no problem at all. The only time it bounced was once when I feathered the clutch on a 2-3 shift up to about 6300 RPMs, shifted to neutral to blow it off and left the clutch fully pushed in. Then it bounced, but didn't stall. Every time I disengage the clutch (take my foot off after shifting to neutral) it stops right where it's supposed to no matter what RPM level it was previously at.

 

[Mark94]

I think JDM Sam has his BOV in a different location along with his MAF.

I'll try putting the screw in as far as possible and then test from there.

What is the exact process for resetting the ECU correctly?

Thanks for the help.

Mark

 

[TX Speed Demon]

I think JDM Sam has his BOV in a different location along with his MAF.

I'll try putting the screw in as far as possible and then test from there.

What is the exact process for resetting the ECU correctly?

Thanks for the help.

Mark

JDM Sams BOV is in the same location as mine. We got the pipes made and welded by the same people at the same time. His MAF is in the same location as the stock set up, he just replaced the stock airbox with a cone/semicircular filter.

Re setting the ECU is done by simply removing the negative terminal of your battery and stepping on the brake pedal until the lights go out. Then reconnect the battery and you're good to go.

This won't be an immedeate fix, it just erases whatever the ecu has learned in your car previously, and starts the learning process over. Over time your car will theoretically understand what is happening and attempt to self correct it. It should learn itself even without re-setting, it is just supposed to take longer.

On my car I never reset the ecu, but drove it around for 2 months with it stalling, and it never got better. Tightening up the valve spring was the only solution for me (aside from a dual set up like 505zoom)

 

[ThrillRide]

no Sams is in the sam place and speed demon. before he had the hard pipe it was in th estock location. he has never had it recirc or stall or anything. all i know is it works. i have ridden with him and it is perfect. no tricks just installed correctly and it works. no turkey no stall no nothing just hks.

 

[TX Speed Demon]

no Sams is in the sam place and speed demon. before he had the hard pipe it was in the stock location. he has never had it recirc or stall or anything. all i know is it works. i have ridden with him and it is perfect. no tricks just installed correctly and it works. no turkey no stall no nothing just hks.

Actually this isn't quite true. Last year, when he had the HKS in the stock piping he had the same stalling issues as anyone running a greddy. He ran it this way for several months before we got the hardpipes put on. He's stalling was not as severe as mine was with the Greddy, due to the nature of the BOV itself, but was there in the beginning.

He learned to drive around it as the ECU learned to fix it. Over time it has consistantly got better, and once we put the hardpipes on our cars his had no stalling problems at all, while mine did. This was the first time I had mine on though, and his had been running for several months. Perhaps the ECU learned how to fix it, perhaps the HKS was not sealed properly on the stock piping and was leaking, perhaps he finally adjusted the valve spring on his too.

What matters now is it works, and sound really bad ass.

 

[on point]

so your saying we can replace the stock blv with a greddy bov and if tuned right with screwing and tightening the bolt it will work fine? or we have to get hardpipes?

cant you with teh greddy recirculate?

 

[TX Speed Demon]

so your saying we can replace the stock blv with a greddy bov and if tuned right with screwing and tightening the bolt it will work fine?

Yes, however it will not sound as loud on the stock pipe. It may also be hard to get a really good seal on the stock pipes as they are plastic and expand/contract with heat variances. You will have to construct a way to attach the greddy flange to the stock pipe that has a tight seal, but is also able to expand and contract with the pipe as the temps rise and fall.

Any BOV will not be as efficient as the stock BPV. Since you'll still be venting the air to atmosphere rather than recirculating you'll still run a little rich between shifts, but you'll have a real BOV sound. If you tighten and adjust the valve spring you can make it so the car runs fine, with no stalling, and no noticable change in performance. Will it work "fine", I'd say yes. Will it work "better or more efficient", maybe slightly. I don't have a turkey sound any more, and if that is compressor surge or some other harmful by product of the stock BPV then the Greddy works better, even when venting. You won't be able to feel any differance, just hear it.

However if you plan on raising your boost levels or recirculating your new blow off valve, I would say yes it will perform better than the stock one. I believe it will be able to hold higher boost levels and maintain a better seal than the stock BPV.

Do we have to get hardpipes?

You do not have to get hardpipes, but you will get much better sound and a better seal if you get metal pipes instead of using the stock plastic ones. With metal pipes you can have the flange welded on creating the best possible seal. Plus it's realatively easy to revert to your stock plastic pipes for warrenty work. You won't be able to change back if you mess up your stock pipe.

Can't you with teh greddy recirculate?

Yes, to do this you will need to buy a 19mm outlet adapter ($12) and construct a way to connect the outlet of your valve to the inlet in your air intake. With my set up this is very difficult due to the location of the valve being so close to the stock airbox. I would have to create at least 2 seperate 90 degree bends to get the air back into the stock location on the air intake.

One way around this would be to buy a silicone extender with a 19mm inlet nipple that attaches to your air intake behind the maf. Use some silicone hose to connect the outlet of your BOV to the inlet nipple on the new silicone extender. This would move the maf up ahead of where the air would recirculate into. You would also need to buy a cone filter as the stock box would no longer fit.

Or you could plan out your set up better and have your BOV welded in place in such a way that the outlet of your BOV faces the air inlet on your stock pipe. In my case the BOV would have to be moved to the underside of the pipe and rotated 90 degrees so the outlet faces the correct direction. If you put your BOV on the intercooler - throttle body pipe this might be easier. You'd have to look at your personal set up and figure out the best placement based on your current and future mods.

I've never heard a greddy recirculating on our cars so don't know if the sound would be loud or not.

 

[on point]

coudl i just go to a muffler shop and have them remake a copy of my stock ic piping..?

second.. i could just keepo the stock bpv and then attach the greddy on the ic piping correct?

thrid.. i could just get an aftermarket bpv liek the turboXs and still raise my boost....

let me know if i am on the right track here...

 

[Mark94]

Thanks for trying to help my out guys.

I definitely don't think JDM Sam's is in the same location as mine. Can you verify if it is. Here is a picture of my car in the attachment.

Can you also see anything out of the ordinary why I would be stalling AND the fact that I am experiencing the "turkey" or compressor surge - whatever you want to call it.

Thanks

Mark

 

[TX Speed Demon]

coudl i just go to a muffler shop and have them remake a copy of my stock ic piping..?

Yes. You don't need all the pipes remade, only the one you want to put the valve on.

second.. i could just keepo the stock bpv and then attach the greddy on the ic piping correct?

Yes, on the intercooler-throttle body pipe. This is the dual set up like 505 has. It will work with no stalling, but won't be as loud since you'll only be venting part of the air, the rest will recirc.

thrid.. i could just get an aftermarket bpv liek the turboXs and still raise my boost....

Yes. Do some research on the BPV you plan to buy and make sure it is rated to hold more pressure than you're newly raised boost will be. IE: Some valves are only rated to 10psi and could fail/leak at higher levels.

 

[jersey_emt]

I've never heard a greddy recirculating on our cars so don't know if the sound would be loud or not.

I'm going to play around on my lunch break with a bunch of things...I have everything I need to run

GReddy alone open vent
GReddy alone recirculating
GReddy open vent, stock BPV recirculating (current setup)
GReddy recirculating, stock BPV venting

I'll report my findings

 

[505zoom]

I'm going to play around on my lunch break with a bunch of things...I have everything I need to run

GReddy alone open vent
GReddy alone recirculating
GReddy open vent, stock BPV recirculating (current setup)
GReddy recirculating, stock BPV venting

I'll report my findings

It will stall really bad with the stock valve open. It will also idle like crap.

 

[TX Speed Demon]

I definitely don't think JDM Sam's is in the same location as mine. Can you verify if it is.

You are correct. Sam and I have our BOVs on the turbo-intercoller pipe. You have yours on the intercooler-throttle body pipe.

Can you also see anything out of the ordinary why I would be stalling AND the fact that I am experiencing the "turkey" or compressor surge?

Nothing looks out of the ordinary on your set up. You may be experiencing the turkey sound because your HKS is too tight. Since you are recirculating you should have you HKS at a very loose setting. If it's too tight it will not open quickly enough to catch the backlash of air. Try loosening it up a bit.

Also the HKS SSQV releases the air in stages, not all at once. So the sound isn't really a pppsssssssttttt. It's more like ppssstt ppsstt ppsstt in a very quick sequence and could possible be misinterpreted.

Since you are recirculating I don't see any reason why you would be stalling. Do the RPMs drop very rapidly and sometimes it stalls and sometimes it bounces and comes back to life? If so check your connections for leaks, research the HKS to make sure you have it recirculating correctly (you may need to buy some sort of adapter). If thoses don't work the replace it with the sotck BPV and see if that works, perhaps you just got a crappy valve.

 

[TX Speed Demon]

It will stall really bad with the stock valve open. It will also idle like crap.

This is probably very true. With the Greddy recirculating you need to have the Valve spring very loose for it to open soon enough. The stock BPV is allready set very loose since it's supposed to recirc. If you combine a loose greddy recircing with a loose stock venting, you will probably send air through the recirc and vent air through the stock BPV accidentally when you don't intend to. With just the greddy recircing you should be fine since there will be no place for the air to escape the system.

 

[505zoom]

...Nothing looks out of the ordinary on your set up. You may be experiencing the turkey sound because your HKS is too tight...

When I had only the SSQV recirculating, the turkey was the worst out of any of my setups. This is what it sounded like: http://www.wpi.edu/~jck15243/MOV00495.MPG

It sounds like Mark94 could benefit from the dual valve setup.

...Since you are recirculating I don't see any reason why you would be stalling...

It looks to me like his return is too close to the maf. The maf could be getting getting confused by the rush of air that is coming back into the intake.

 

[jersey_emt]

GReddy alone open vent - works fine when valve is tight enough. But there is a very slight bogging right after shifting...but it's barely noticeable at all. No turkey at all. A very good choice.

GReddy alone recirculating - No stalling or bogging, but it's all turkey. Not recommended.

GReddy open vent, stock BPV recirculating - No stalling. A bit of turkey (one or two 'gobbles') when shifting below 3500 RPM. None whe shifting above. NO noticeable bogging after shifting. The best choice for me.

GReddy recirculating, stock BPV venting - runs like crap! Rough idle, stalls very easily. Not recommended.