GP Light Weight Protege pulleys

[JPR-MSP]

Since noone answered it: the vibrations from the solid rear mount should get a little better. When I first installed mine, the cab vibrated so badly that the resonance hurt my ears but that only lasted a couple weeks and only during warm-up on really cold days. After a few months, there was a noticeable decrease in vibrations. They will not go away, but you might get used to it. Me, I deal with the vibrations because I know the performance gain and feel that the solid mount gives you. I couldn't stand all the wheel hop I had before, so I deal with the vibes.

THAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANKS!
Hope this go away...do you forums users have a tip(or a how to) for changing
the rear b****y MM?
Thanks !

 

[505zoom]

...do you forums users have a tip(or a how to) for changing
the rear b****y MM?
Thanks !

There is a how to guide for the rear motor mount in the how to section. The bottom bolt on the ECU wiring harness clip takes everyone forever, other than that it's pretty straight forward.

If you have a good arsenal of extensions and swivels you'll be alright.

 

[mazda_pro5_2nr]

Um.......still no crank......I have alt, ps and wp. And no I'm not going to send the original set in order to get the new ones plus my crank since I paid for all of them.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

you only send the crank and P/S pullies. and he already stated to get the newest revised ones you have to send the old one back because in the past when he just sent out the new ones expecting everyone to throw out the old ones, but some people turned around and sold the originals once they received the revised ones.

I'm pretty sure any major company would make you send the old product back first.

 

[Viralphrame]

There is a how to guide for the rear motor mount in the how to section. The bottom bolt on the ECU wiring harness clip takes everyone forever, other than that it's pretty straight forward.

If you have a good arsenal of extensions and swivels you'll be alright.

As soon as I got the nut off of that stud in the firewall, I dremeled that s*** off with a vengeance. Took me a whole half hour just to get that nut out! Had to take a smoke break afterwards, lol.

I'm pretty sure any major company would make you send the old product back first.

+1 on this. mazda_pro5_2nr: Regardless of whether or not you paid for the whole set, you still only paid for one set. If you want the revised pieces, send in the old ones. Not terribly hard.

 

[mazda_pro5_2nr]

you only send the crank and P/S pullies. and he already stated to get the newest revised ones you have to send the old one back because in the past when he just sent out the new ones expecting everyone to throw out the old ones, but some people turned around and sold the originals once they received the revised ones.

I'm pretty sure any major company would make you send the old product back first.

..........I had never got the PS, so he sent me the new PS....and I never received the crank....so.....how the hell am I supposed to send them back.....if I never got them? Explain that one to me....

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

your post wasn't clear. if you have the new PS your good, if you never got the crank you need to contact medieval. theres nothing for you to send back

 

[mazda_pro5_2nr]

Yeah.....my bad....just....I was in the original bunch and got rid of the car due to total loss and never received the crank....

 

[JPR-MSP]

I made it last night,started @ 5.06pm finished @7.17pm (only the rear b****y MM)

First, thanks to everybody that contribute to the HOW TO...
Second, the wheel hop hasn't gone away...don't know if I definetely need the tranny mount(SUGGESTION ON THIS?) In my ex-DSM I only installed the front and rear and the hop was elliminated...

Back to topic:
IMO,Is not that difficult if U have lots of extensions and a swivel drive(3/8) and a reducer from 1/2 to 3/8 drive so you can apply the force more easily! (I even took the center bolt for the MM,without taking the wheel out...hehehehe) With lots of extension it was easy Like 505zoom said...


But I think the bottom bolts is not that difficult, it was more difficult for me (I was alone) to leave the harness out of the way while working in the 3 bolts of the MM than taking the two harness bolts out(which most poeple complainns about).

Ahhhh other thing,I didn't remove any tape from the harness... it just need to be unclipped from a metal bracket attached to the tranny and is free(to get in your way...hehehehe)

Talking about the vibrations in the engine...well look at the pictures you will notice how bad my MM's were,so in conclusion it got a little better in iddle, but when you accel. while passing the analog dial of the tach from iddle to 1,100 RPMS it rumbles very hard for that period of RPM's...but now the rear wing won't break @ iddle ... hahahaha


In the picture a drew a red line to show the way I went for removing the bottom bolt of the harness I took it out like in 20 secs...but i did remove the intake/bov/charge pipe/air filter/ coolant resorvoir brackets...i didn't remove the battery or the battery tray though(didn't want to turn of the music)(breakn)

Thanks and good luck for people going in to this mod...

 

[Medieval]

Yeah.....my bad....just....I was in the original bunch and got rid of the car due to total loss and never received the crank....

Send me a Pm with your info. I will look up the tracking. When I ship out a part, we assume you will receive it unless we hear from you. A lot of time has passed since then, but in either case you will receive your CP.

 

[Medieval]

I made it last night,started @ 5.06pm finished @7.17pm(only the rear b****y MM)

First, thanks to everybody that contribute to the HOW TO...
Second, the wheel hop hasn't gone away...don't know if I definetely I need the tranny mount(SUGGESTION ON THIS GUYS?)

Back to topic:
IMO,Is not that difficult if U have lots of extensions and a swivel drive(3/8) and a reducer from 1/2 to 3/8 drive so you can apply the force more easily! (I even took the center bolt for the MM,without taking the wheel out...hehehehe) With lots of extension it was easy Like 505zoom said...


But I think the bottom bolts is not that difficult, it was more difficult for me (I was alone) to leave the harness out of the way while working in the 3 botls of the MM than taking the two harness bolts out(which most poeple complainns about).

Ahhhh other thing,I didn't remove any tape from the harness... it just need to be unclipped from a metal bracket attached to the tranny and is free(to get in your way...hehehehe)

Talking about the vibrations in the engine...well look at the pictures you will notice how bad my MM's were,so in conclusion it got a little better in iddle, but when you accel. while passing the analog dial of the tach from iddle to 1,100 RPMS it rumbles very hard for that period of RPM's...but now the rear wing won't break... hahahaha




In the picture a drew a red line to show the way I went for removing the bottom bolt of the harness I took it out like in 20 secs...but i did remove the intake/bov/charge pipe/air filter/ coolant resorvoir brackets...i didn't remove the battery or the battery tray though(didn't want to turn of the music)(breakn)

Thanks and good luck for people going in to this mod...

If you still are having wheel hop issues, you either need the transmission mount (we have them on out site and ready to ship in 2 weeks) or different driving skills : JK
Wheel hop is affected not only by the motor mounts, but by road and tire conditions.

 

[JPR-MSP]

I ride Kumho tires in front(maybe they have too much air...) my car is not boosting more than the 7psi that come from factory...maybe the road is not the best...hahahahaha

Anyway,when I visit the track again(i tried the launch in the internal street of the company that i work for) I will drop down the tire press. and see how it goes!

 

[mazda_pro5_2nr]

Send me a Pm with your info. I will look up the tracking. When I ship out a part, we assume you will receive it unless we hear from you. A lot of time has passed since then, but in either case you will receive your CP.

I mean I udnerstand that once its gone out of your hands its out of your control....but I'm not the type that also loves to bug the sh*t out of the "shipper" since they have no control. I'll PM you when I get home.

 

[BinoMP5]

how long does the average install take for those who did it themselves? the shop is charging me ~$300 for all 4 pulley install so.... i'm looking at doing it myself... and difficulty?

 

[Medieval]

how long does the average install take for those who did it themselves? the shop is charging me ~$300 for all 4 pulley install so.... i'm looking at doing it myself... and difficulty?

I can knock out the PS pulley in 45 minutes, Water pump pulley in 30 minutes and the ALT in 1 hour. It is not hard, just time consuming.

 

[Tzar177]

anyone have the newer design crank yet?

 

[SIBalla23]

Will the new trans mount work on an automatic protege?

 

[Medieval]

Will the new trans mount work on an automatic protege?

I have yet to test in on the automatic. Do you have an automatic?

 

[SIBalla23]

Yes I do thats why I am asking

 

[carbonkid]

Medieval,
Just FYI, I returned my CP on Thursday to you via USPS Priority. Hopefully you can kick back a "v.3" CP shortly after receiving mine, all contact info is included inside the package. Cheers.