Got the dreaded check engine light!

I would have to go out and look at the spark plugs. I changed them a little over a year ago. I used the same plugs as was what was originally in there.
 
Might also try running some injector cleaner through your car with a full tank of gas, also i run 93 octane in my MSP, might try running this for a tank and see how your car runs.
 
I had been thinking about that. I suppose changing the fuel filter would not hurt either. I don't think it has ever been changed. I have never changed it and I imagine it was never chnaged by the dealer when I used to have it serviced. That was way back when it used to be under warranty. Fuel issue is what I have been leaning towards. Possible bad fuel injector?
 
mines is due to the o2 sensor...could be your problem also bc mine shakes like crazy at lights/when stopped, but when check engine light goes off it runs fine
 
Some ideas from the net

P0171

What does that mean?
Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.

Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

Symptoms
You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

Causes
A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

•The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
•There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.

Possible SolutionsPossible solutions include:
•In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
•Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
•Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure
 
I had been thinking about that. I suppose changing the fuel filter would not hurt either. I don't think it has ever been changed. I have never changed it and I imagine it was never chnaged by the dealer when I used to have it serviced. That was way back when it used to be under warranty. Fuel issue is what I have been leaning towards. Possible bad fuel injector?
ehh if it was an injector you would probably see problems elswhere than just idle. But yeah it could possibly be the pump i guess if your willing to spend the money then go ahead. but really your gonna want to make sure your plugs are at the right gap for sure and maybe get some heat range 6 plugs because stock is 7 and that can be a bit hot if your getting on her specially if they are gapped wrong. Also maybe hook a boost gauge up and make sure at idle your vaccum is at 20-22 if it is less than this than you have a vaccum leak and it is your problem.
 
Have you checked any of the intake and turbo piping for cracks or one that may have come loose? Also if the guy you bought it from told you about the gas cap and the cel went off when you got gas did you ever think about replacing it?
 
I have owned the car since new. Thought about replacing the gas cap. Just have not done it yet. But I doubt that would cause the car to have a rough idle. I also cleaned the MAF sensor and still no improvement. I will change the front O2 sensor next week. I really don't want to have to go through the trouble of changing the fuel filter after I realized it is in the gas tank. Sounds like a pain to get it out. But if I have to go that route I will. I will have to check the turbo piping.
 
Ok. I changed both o2 sensors. So far so good. Check engine light has not come on since Friday. Hope that fixes my problem.
 
Ok, Car still is not running right. Idle has been rough. Not up and down idle until today. CEL came back on. Still reading bank 1 running lean. Cleared the code. Just pulled my spark plugs. They were all at about a .40 gap. I re did them down to .30. Just put a new fuel cap on. Put fuel injector cleaner in it when I filled up last week. Checked all the pipes. Can't see any cracks or broken pipes. What is a good distance to drive on it to get the computer reset for the new sensors dialed in?
 
Really starting to hate this car! Took it out and drove it about 250 miles today. Just pulled it into the garage and "Bink" the CEL comes on and the car starts running like crap again. Checked the code and it was the same as before. Bank 1 running lean. Cleared it and turned the car off. Changed the pcv valve on Thursday night. It was cheap. Any more suggestions before I just waste more money trying to guess what's wrong still?
 
Any more guesses here? Today was a prime example. It drove ok for a few miles. Turned it off for about a half hour. Turned it back on and it was running terrible. Idle going from about 700 or 800 down to almost stalling at idle. Had to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep it running. Stopped at my work and let it run like that. It ran for a few minutes really bad then it had a bad shudder almost stalled then seemed to smooth out and idled close to smooth as it gets now. Still only showing the same CEL for bank 1 running lean. Still all stock. No mods at all.
 
37000 miles on the car? Wow that's nice! Anyways, check all your vacuum hoses with a can of brake clean, check your air intake system for leaks. Plug wires?
 
Actually it's up to 39,000 now. I sprayed carb cleaner on the vacuum hoses and no difference. I was starting to think about the wires. How often should they be changed? Maybe the 2 coil packs? I just don't want to have to buy a MAF sensor from Mazda for $250 if that is not the problem. Sucks! Just can't believe a car with so low miles would be giving me this kind of trouble. I have noticed that the rubber seal that goes on the end of the plastic hose on the intercooler is ripped completely in one spot. I can't imagine that being a problem. If it is where do I get a replacement rubber seal?
 
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Wires go with age and not just mileage. I had a coil go bad at 32,000 it caused a noticeable misfire while accelerating. If you need a MAF I've got a good one I could sell you, but probably not it. Did you mean to write ribbed, or ripped? If you need a new one here's the place to get it from, keep us posted;
http://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/
 
Already did the gas cap. And I ment ripped. Anybody got a good source for a good spark plug wire set?
 

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