going forged

so spending the money on forged parts just to go to 220whp is worth it? I am not saying it isn't worth it to strengthen your motor, but come on, if you are only looking to push 220 then there are much more efficient ways to doing it that are safe.

Thats all I am saying.


If you're gonna spend the money on the parts you might as well get some potential out of them. Having forged rods in a 220hp FS "realistically" is a waste of money when that can be achieved with proper tuning and supporting mods.

That's what I thought at the time...did everything I could to support my lousy 200-210whp. I threw so much money in supporting mods for the simple goal of keeping a healthy motor....then BOOM!!!!

If I knew the end result would come so quick...I woulda taken the car at delivery.....straight to the machine shop. I woulda saved so much money/time/headaches.

Of course it would be a waste to forge a motor for the simple goal of 220whp...sure why not push for more BUT if only I knew then what I know now!



Hell...For the price of the J+S ..you could have bought rods and like even had some change left over.
Tha J+S may help with detonation..But it wont stop a rod from bending if the power level gets too high...Detonation or not.

Yup...J&S didn't prevent anything for me knor did great tuning
 
Not in disagreement but I would like to know how you think a rod gets bent? Bad rings bearings oil starvation I can't think of an example that wouldn't cause knock before catastrophe?? As long as it wasn't a huge spike that 20 degrees of timing couldn't help.

I will be using my J&S in my Speedcircuit block too!
 
Not in disagreement but I would like to know how you think a rod gets bent? Bad rings bearings oil starvation I can't think of an example that wouldn't cause knock before catastrophe?? As long as it wasn't a huge spike that 20 degrees of timing couldn't help.

I will be using my J&S in my Speedcircuit block too!
Too much boost could cause it....Running more power than the rod is rated for...Serious Detontion may make a Rod Failure imminant...But its not the only cause of rod failure.

I have seen guys here who have disassembled running motors for a rebuild..that were running good..only to find a bent rod.
If you force too much of a load on the rod..It will bend.
It may not be a catastrophic explosion like some have seen..but they can just bend from running too much power/Boost.
Detonation does not neccessarily need to be present to cause this.
I know that typically..too much boost and detonation do go hand in hand...but it does not mean it has to be that way to trash a rod.

Did this make sense?
For some reason..I keep reading it and I hear what I said..but it just seems wrong.
 
I'm nervous every time I romp on it and I still will be with a forged motor in a couple weeks. Dynos use a knock sensor when tuning and they have still blown motors! But it does make me feel a little safer!!

Haltech overboost fuel cut FTW!
 
Well...don't worry...you know what they say...

It's gonna go..or it's gonna blow.
 
I have to agree with Forcefed...there are just so many people who troll around the forums and read the key words like "forged" and "turbo" or "meth-injection"...then the next thing out of their mouth is "HEY GUYS I'M GOING FORGED!" but then they do not even know what that means.

I mean you came into the thread saying you either want to sell it or go forged...but then you ask what forged parts do...so why did you want to go forged? You dont know what forged parts do or WHICH parts are the ones to go forged with. Forcefed is trying to save you a lot of hassle.

You said you know a lot about cars, but there are some things you need to learn...well learn what going forged is all about before deciding you want to do it. You just had 4 of the heavy hitters with forged engines come in your thread and give you the low down....so dont come back throwing s*** in their faces because you cant take internet criticism.

Dude, by no means was I even coming at anybody throwing s*** back at them. . . all I was saying is instead of making somebody look stupid for asking a question about something that they know little about, how's about you tell them what they need to know so that way they don't look stupid. That's all.
 
Ok..How about this....

Hey dude...I don't think building a 500HP protege is a good idea.
It will cost a lot more money than its worth and wont have any hint of reliabilty.
If you want to build a 500HP car..Might I suggest a Cobra, a Vette or something of the likes.
The protege is not a good base to build a car of that kind of HP.
Even at the 300HP mark..you will still have tranny troubles and at best...serious traction problems.
A good 250HP car with the right mods and tuning would do very well on the street if built properly.

How's that.
 
Fair enough.

However, i never claimed that 500 was reasonable. When i posted at the beginning, i figured he meant around 300whp. 500 is ridiculous on a street driven protege. Definitely a pipe dream.

Good God. . . never did I think that a freakin example would stir up so much s***. 500 WHP was just an example. . . Even somebody that knows nothing about this car except for the baseline hp would know that 50 whp + is out of the question without putting another engine in the bay.

I know that there is a lot to do in order to go forged. . . might not know all the details. . . but i know that there is more than just dropping in the rods and pistons.

As far as building one by myself. . . psh, even I am not that stupid. s*** man, Citizenpro and MSPArchitect told me to look you (mspHtown) and Hellcat up a while back if I ever wanted the best advice in Houston.
 
ooh, an e-war, my favorite!

after driving in kooldino's boosted mp3 (275whp) I don't see why anybody with a daily driver protege would build anything stronger. A) you have no traction. B) breaking trannies gets old and costly

if you want crazy numbers buy an awd
 
ooh, an e-war, my favorite!

after driving in kooldino's boosted mp3 (275whp) I don't see why anybody with a daily driver protege would build anything stronger. A) you have no traction. B) breaking trannies gets old and costly

if you want crazy numbers buy an awd

Well, in all honesty, the reason why I even asked about the forged internals and "going forged" period, was because I wanted to protect the engine. 500 WHP is a stretch. . . but 275 - 300 isn't. (ricer)

On a side note. . . this is the most popular thread that I have ever started. Cool.
 
I have about 230 hp without internals. I think I am finally coming to my senses and buying another car. I am going to have the tune finished and I think thats it.
 
I have about 230 hp without internals. I think I am finally coming to my senses and buying another car. I am going to have the tune finished and I think thats it.
Booo...Dont sell it..I need to whoop on some local mazdas at the track this year.
 
Okay, last question from the guy who knows nothing and I will shut up.

How is it that people can't get this car to get higher than 350 WHP, yet others have gotten 700 WHP out of a damned civic?? the thought just baffles me.
 
Good God. . . never did I think that a freakin example would stir up so much s***. 500 WHP was just an example. . . Even somebody that knows nothing about this car except for the baseline hp would know that 50 whp + is out of the question without putting another engine in the bay.

I know that there is a lot to do in order to go forged. . . might not know all the details. . . but i know that there is more than just dropping in the rods and pistons.

As far as building one by myself. . . psh, even I am not that stupid. s*** man, Citizenpro and MSPArchitect told me to look you (mspHtown) and Hellcat up a while back if I ever wanted the best advice in Houston.


hey man i sent you a pm.
 
I am keeping my car. just giving up on being the fastest. I am hoping for 250 out of it when all is said and done. that shoud be good enough for whatever
 
i just went through a complete rebuild. you do not just buy pistons and rods and call it a day. if you want it done right, you will end up spending tons of money and time.

Hell's yeah!
My machine work was $1200.00 alone! That was just ceramic coating, dry film, bad ass balance job, head work etc. etc. etc.
Then there is the MPI, the J&S, the Perrin FMIC, the 3'' GHL and ION, the modded turbos, the ported manifold, the suspension, the two sets of Spec clutches, the new diff, Pauter rods, Aria pistons, assembly on and on...
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

The damn stock replacement s*** was like 700 bucks! Gaskets, oil pump, oil pump screen, water pump, timing belt, more s*** than I can even remember.
 
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