Gear grinding from 1st to 2nd

[ONRAILS]

I need your opinions on this.

When going from 1st to 2nd gear it grinds for a sec. This only happens like in the 4k rpm range. Not in boost or anything.

I put GM Syncromesh in at about 10k miles. Currently I'm just above 35k miles.

What do you think? Time to change the gear oil again? Feels like it's the syncro's or something.

 

[MSP#735]

you just cant drive bro...ive been tryin to tell you that for what.....almost 2 years...*sigh* when will you ever learn????

 

[ONRAILS]

lol... it's not the "missing shift" thing. Just happens at normal speeds, no launching or anything.

you just cant drive bro...ive been tryin to tell you that for what.....almost 2 years...*sigh* when will you ever learn????

 

[JCell]

it's normal when u speed shift to grind 1st to second, not good, but normal


just take it easy on that fisrt shift

 

[ONRAILS]

yea... but that's not when it happens. Just normal driving, maybe half or quarter throttle, take it up to 4k rpms, and it happens.

it's normal when u speed shift to grind 1st to second, not good, but normal


just take it easy on that fisrt shift

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

Shoulda stuck with the stock fluid.

 

[goku4658]

Shoulda stuck with the stock fluid.

are u suggesting never touching the stock fluid or replacing stock fluid w/ stock fluid?

 

[MSP#735]

thats what i plan on doing! if its not broke, dont fix it!!!

are u suggesting never touching the stock fluid or replacing stock fluid w/ stock fluid?

 

[ONRAILS]

Do you think it was the syncromesh?

Shoulda stuck with the stock fluid.

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

Stock is almost always better. Come on, you know this. Don't replace it until needed (60k), and always replace with Mazda genuine parts.

I know that sounds horrible and almost like a sales pitch but I get at least 5cars a week that come in with a problem and it is a aftermarket part that has failed or was built out of factory tolerances. You save 10bux on a part going aftermarket then spend another 100-200 for someone to diagnois then install a factory part. You will actually save money in the long run buying factory parts.

 

[ONRAILS]

Yea... the peer pressure from this forum! lol

Stock is almost always better. Come on, you know this. Don't replace it until needed (60k), and always replace with Mazda genuine parts.

I know that sounds horrible and almost like a sales pitch but I get at least 5cars a week that come in with a problem and it is a aftermarket part that has failed or was built out of factory tolerances. You save 10bux on a part going aftermarket then spend another 100-200 for someone to diagnois then install a factory part. You will actually save money in the long run buying factory parts.

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

Take everything you read here and do research, find out why people suggest things, why the factory used certain components, then come up with your own decision. There is good information on this forum, you just have to pick through the b.s.

If you have questions you can always pm me.

 

[ONRAILS]

Thanks bro. So do you think it would go away with changing the fluid?

Take everything you read here and do research, find out why people suggest things, why the factory used certain components, then come up with your own decision. There is good information on this forum, you just have to pick through the b.s.

If you have questions you can always pm me.

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

It all depends on whats wrong with it. Without driving the car it is very hard to determine. First guess I would say your synchros are going, if thats the case then it def. could be caused by improper fluid. Depending on how far gone they are, you may notice some improvement by switching back to a heavier fluid (stock).

 

[goku4658]

will the dealership sell me just the fluid?

 

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

have you tried actually using the clutch................. nah i'm just kidding bro!

 

[tricky]

WERD! listen to people who know their stuff. there's a few people on the board who know the msp like the back of their hand. you just have to read a ton of posts and filter out the bs.

Take everything you read here and do research, find out why people suggest things, why the factory used certain components, then come up with your own decision. There is good information on this forum, you just have to pick through the b.s.

If you have questions you can always pm me.

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

75w90 synthetic. Pretty much anybrand will do. I just use bulk shell stuff.

 

[CustomMSP]

Try Redline Shockproof Lightweight for extra protection. That's what I have now. It'll take a little bit for the shifter to get into second, but it shouldn't grind. I used to grind in to second gear with redline MTL when shifting with my palm away from my leg only. I don't anymore with Shockproof lightweight.

 

[grcuadros]

i had the exact same problem. i posted about it a few weeks ago. didn't really get any good responses. however, my problem was very scarce. it may have happened 5 times to me in the last year. im not worried about it, it hasn't happened in the last month or so. wish i could tell you what i did to "fix" it, but i dont know haha. good luck.