Fuel pump not priming, no spark either. help please!

Sorry to chime in late...

The Valve Cover can move as much as 5mm left and right so it is possible to move the Cam sensor away from the gear causing it to not pick up a signal.

Loosen the bolts, bump it towards the drivers side and tighten the bolts down.

Hopefully this is an easy thing to rule out.

Sadly, without a Standalone ECU, there is no way to actually "See On A Computer" that the ECU has a signal from both so you are Ray Charles here...
 
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Sorry to chime in late...

The Valve Cover can move as much as 5mm left and right so it is possible to move the Cam sensor away from the gear causing it to not pick up a signal.

Loosen the bolts, bump it towards the drivers side and tighten the bolts down.

Hopefully this is an easy thing to rule out.

Sadly, without a Standalone ECU, there is no way to actually "See On A Computer" that the ECU has a signal from both so you are Ray Charles here...

I will definitely give that a shot, thanks Brian. I know you run stand alone, but do you have any idea about my question in regards to the fuel pump relay that I posted? Is that the correct relay? Should I be seeing voltage there with key on?
 
Also to mention, the rest of the wiring harness for the headlights and cooling fan and whatnot is not plugged in, though I did ground the ground wire thing in it. Idk if for some reason the cooling fan and stuff has to be plugged in?
 
The fuel pump relay is triggered by the ECU when it sees movement of the crank.

If you remove the relay there will be at least one pole that sees constant power, however that power could be supplied when the main relay is activated...
 
hmm, ok. the main relay is seeing power, and i tested the relay it is operational as well. i guess i need to focus on why the fuel pump relay isnt getting power? where does it get power from?
 
The trigger for the relay is controlled by the ECU.

So If you jump the relay (Bypass wit with a wire) does the fuel pump come on?

You might need to lift the seat bottom in the rear up and open the little metal access plate to hear it more clearly..
 
I will definitely try that, so like stick a wire or paperclip between the two ports where the relay plugs in?

does anyone have, or know where i can download a wiring diagram PDF?
 
wondering if it might be the ecu, everything else pretty much is checking out fine. at the yard, there is a 5 speed 01 626, i was thinking of pulling that and if it doesnt fix it take it back to the junkyard. would that ecu work you think?
 
For the fuel pump relay, pull it out. The two female ends closest to the fender, jump them. I used a 30amp fuse when I was testing mine, the next one is merely constant key on power, which I ended up running my fan and JDM to.
 
Alright so I figured out the problem with that, several wires were cut somehow. It starts now, runs perfect for about 5 seconds or so, then it dies. I only have the intercooler pipe to the throttle, and the maf is on it, and about 4 inches of pipe after that. No vacuum leaks I can see, map is hooked up... No idea..
 
5 seconds of idling, then died? Thats like it depressurized...Like you spun the pump up, but it won't stay 'on'...

have you messed with anything on top of the sending unit under the rear seat? Pull the plug, and use a multimeter to test that...I don't know the numbers off the top of my head, but you'll need to check it with the key on, ready to start, and under cranking from what i remember (so you'll need a friend for that)...I had a built NA engine in years ago, and did a temp install with a motec. I ran a separate line inside the car, under the rear seat cushions, to the sending unti/pump housing from the new computer, and for a while had exactly what you might have...could get the pump to spin up enough pressure to start, but the pump was not running after cranking...and then would simply idle until the lines were clean.

I had no luck with 'listening' to the fuel pump. Not positive how the stock ECU does it, but the motec's default start settings that i had borrowed would not start the pump until the engine was physically cranking...some cars will power up the pump before cranking, some don't. listening to the pump when the engine was on, with nearly 13:1 compression, full AWR mounts, and a completely cold engine idling at 1400 rpm...I couldn't hear anything in side the car, let alone the whirling haha. We fixed it by adjustments to the motec's cold start cycle, by having it always on with the key on (not ideal, but again...this was temporary anyway) so i'm sorry...don't really know what to do for yours, but see what readings you get out of that harness plug with a multi-meter on and off cranking...

that will rule out if its still your relays up front, anyway...it could simply be a dead or dying fuel pump...
 
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