FSB/subframe contact, any ideas?
- Thread starter eyeballs
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CRG Racer24
Member
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- '11 Mazda2 GX-Convenience Pkg.. Warranty Voiding Mods
I'm extremely lower than you, and even I don't have that problem.. my only guess right now, without other, further away pics, is that something got shifted, somewhere. Or maybe your sway bar somehow rotated? Honestly other than that, I'm not sure. Hopefully someone else knows more
OK I think I've got it figured out. After I installed my camber bolts the other day the passenger side lower endlink bolt came loose and it started clunking. I tightened it up then all was good. Looking at the endlink angles now, it seems they are skewed towards the passenger side sugegsting the bar shifted. I guess with that endlink loose the bar was able to shift easier.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to loosen the rear FSB mount bolts and try to recenter the bar. I guess I also need to get some collars to keep it in place. I've heard about bicycle seat tube collars from wal-mart working well so I may check that out.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to loosen the rear FSB mount bolts and try to recenter the bar. I guess I also need to get some collars to keep it in place. I've heard about bicycle seat tube collars from wal-mart working well so I may check that out.
CRG Racer24
Member
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- '11 Mazda2 GX-Convenience Pkg.. Warranty Voiding Mods
Cool.. glad you got it figured out. With what you had said (everything was tight and such), I had figured something must have gotten shifted. Get 'er fixed
ok I got the bar centered and there really isn't much clearance. Still clunks a little too. I guess I'll have to take another look tomorrow.
CRG Racer24
Member
- :
- '11 Mazda2 GX-Convenience Pkg.. Warranty Voiding Mods
Check sway bar bushings/brackets?
Those were fine, I took a good look there since I had to loosen the bolts on one side to get the bar to slide over. And actually, when I looked at the bar, it really hadn't moved much in the first place.
Take a look at the angle where the bar end connects to the end link. The only thing left I can think of to try is to disconnect the endlinks and rotate the bar forward so that bar end is perpendicular to the subframe. But again, when I look at where the "corksport" sticker is on the bar...its in the same spot as when I installed it indicating there has been no rotation.
This is driving me nuts because the only thing that really changed is the added camber...no way can that be the issue here. It's clunking around like crazy when I drive (even with the bar centered). Never had an issue with the front swaybar until now.
Take a look at the angle where the bar end connects to the end link. The only thing left I can think of to try is to disconnect the endlinks and rotate the bar forward so that bar end is perpendicular to the subframe. But again, when I look at where the "corksport" sticker is on the bar...its in the same spot as when I installed it indicating there has been no rotation.
This is driving me nuts because the only thing that really changed is the added camber...no way can that be the issue here. It's clunking around like crazy when I drive (even with the bar centered). Never had an issue with the front swaybar until now.
For one, it turned out that the endlink nut HAD come loose again...the loctite just made it seem tight by hand when I checked it when in fact it had backed off a bit. Didn't realize it until I decided to just take everything apart. Also, the bar was still not centered properly. You really have to get the wheels off and measure (or carefully eyeball) the endlink angles. I used the back edge of the strut housing as a reference.
If that endlink nut continues to get loose I suppose I'll need to use a smaller nut with a lock washer or a nyloc nut. I picked up some hose clamps today to use with rubber hose for collars to prevent the swaybar from shifting under load.
If that endlink nut continues to get loose I suppose I'll need to use a smaller nut with a lock washer or a nyloc nut. I picked up some hose clamps today to use with rubber hose for collars to prevent the swaybar from shifting under load.
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- All Mazdas!
Contact us if you are indeed getting contact with the swaybar and the frame.
-Derrick
After 1 day of driving (including a fun windy road) I got under the car to get the collars on, and the drivers side of the bar was against the subframe again. No noise though. Hopefully my collars will work. The hose clamp and rubber tube method is a PIA, only managed to get one on today in the limited time I had.
Just ordered these, as they ought to be infinitely superior to my hose clamp/bike tube setup. Whiteline sells something similar for $10 more.
https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)
https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)
I'll get under there this weekend while I'm rolling my fenders and see what's going on. You guys ready to swap a speed3 engine into a 2 yet?
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- All Mazdas!
I'll get under there this weekend while I'm rolling my fenders and see what's going on. You guys ready to swap a speed3 engine into a 2 yet?
I have been entertaining the idea.
