FS-DE Oil System

Once again, WHO CARES about making them happy, Why do you feel the need to educate them.

You are paying them for a service. They do the service.
 
Posted in your other thread, but yes. Whatever shop that is this time around clearly doesn't give two s****...
 
Hi I was wondering If there was a phone number to call Doc B? I wanted the shop to talk to you that is tuning the car. They feel that the doc b pressure regulator is unnecessary.
If your pump has been converted for one it is ABSOLUTELY necessary!

If they try to start the motor without something helping to control oil pressure you can blow the top off the oil filter.

BTW, PM'd you with our contact info

Thanks!
Tom
 
Just in case anyone was curious about my earlier post and my oil pressure issues,it turns out that all 4 of my oil squirters broke off,after doing some research it turns out it was the CP pistons at the base of the issue,then the builder next....my rebuild is now almost complete and was redone with WISECO this time around,as they have the "proper" provisions built in to their pistons for the squirters.....just thought I'd share that,
Thanks
 
Once again, WHO CARES about making them happy, Why do you feel the need to educate them.

You are paying them for a service. They do the service.

I bet they don't specialize in mazdas.....9 out of 10 times most shops have that attitude because they are not specific to your engine,but don't let them deter you,we ALL know better
 
Just in case anyone was curious about my earlier post and my oil pressure issues,it turns out that all 4 of my oil squirters broke off,after doing some research it turns out it was the CP pistons at the base of the issue,then the builder next....my rebuild is now almost complete and was redone with WISECO this time around,as they have the "proper" provisions built in to their pistons for the squirters.....just thought I'd share that,
Thanks

Make sure you double check the clearances and the installation depth of the squirters, even with the Wisecos. There is not a whole lot of clearance as I recall... maybe 1mm or so.
 
Yes, Thank you for posting your follow-up!!! Good info to know....I'm not familiar with the CP piston design since we were the ones who worked with Wiseco to design the piston you are now using!! (alright)

Thanks!
Tom

BTW, while the motor is apart make sure to take the back plate off your oil pump and inspect the gears for any oil squirter bits and to make sure they didn't damage the rotors.
 
Just in case anyone was curious about my earlier post and my oil pressure issues,it turns out that all 4 of my oil squirters broke off,after doing some research it turns out it was the CP pistons at the base of the issue,then the builder next....my rebuild is now almost complete and was redone with WISECO this time around,as they have the "proper" provisions built in to their pistons for the squirters.....just thought I'd share that,
Thanks

Make sure the CP's werent installed backwards. They do have provisions for the oil squirters. Whoever assembled your engine didn't install the jets properly, and it is their fault. See my build thread for the process.
 
I agree with MAXX.. The CP pistons have a crescent cut out in the skirt with ample clearance for the jet.

Something else went wrong.
 
Yes, Thank you for posting your follow-up!!! Good info to know....I'm not familiar with the CP piston design since we were the ones who worked with Wiseco to design the piston you are now using!! (alright)

Thanks!
Tom



BTW, while the motor is apart make sure to take the back plate off your oil pump and inspect the gears for any oil squirter bits and to make sure they didn't damage the rotors.

I bought a brand new coated pump from you a while ago so that's going in
 
Make sure the CP's werent installed backwards. They do have provisions for the oil squirters. Whoever assembled your engine didn't install the jets properly, and it is their fault. See my build thread for the process.

If this is true(and it might be) I need to contact CORKSPORT for a refund....
 
I bet they don't specialize in mazdas.....9 out of 10 times most shops have that attitude because they are not specific to your engine,but don't let them deter you,we ALL know better

No they're dicks at that shop im not bring it to them anymore. As for the external prv what is the highest pressure i can run it at? And what is the lowest? Based off when you were running it what would a good medium be 80psi? And what oil was being run in the doc b race engine? Thanks
 
The PRV does not just dial in a set pressure. It functions more as a proportional bleed-off, so the higher the pressure, the further the bypass valve opens. The way I have mine set right now, I am seeing roughly the "typical" 10psi/1000rpm when the oil is warm, but at cold idle the pressure is around 80psi.

The actual pressure you see is going to depend on the type of oil you're using and the bearing clearances in your motor.
 
No they're dicks at that shop im not bring it to them anymore. As for the external prv what is the highest pressure i can run it at? And what is the lowest? Based off when you were running it what would a good medium be 80psi? And what oil was being run in the doc b race engine? Thanks

I think a "regular oil filter can hold about 90-100psi before it blows,but I'm no expert,80psi should not be an issue,as far as DocB,I read somewhere that they run Torco 15w50 i think,or somewhere close to that,but remember thats strictly a race engine.
 
So I replaced my fubard AWR oil pan yesterday with a Specter OEM replacement and all seemed fine. Upon exiting the freeway to work today, my idle oil pressure dropped to like 2-7 psi. With the AWR it would hover at like 6-12 in the same situation. Any suggestions on why this is happening? Would switching to a thicker oil help? I don't have time or money to do the Doc B oil pump service in the near future. (suggestions on what oil? Currently using Castrol GTX 10w30)
 

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