Free Mod: Modify your maf!

Black Molly said:
I know this is a old thread but I thought the same thing and did some research here on this matter. As for you need a waffle to even out air flow I consider that BS. I have a 02 Harley truck and it DOES not have a waffle. In fact look at many after market MAFS and they do not have a waffles. Does anyone have Dyno sheets one way or the other and not all this, welll I assume it does this or that?
Do you actually think that just because some don't have the screen, that all don't need it.

The point of my post FROM 2004 ( HOLY s*** I CAN'T BELIEVE YOU BUMPED THIS ), was that when Mazda calibrated the Mass Air for this particular car, they did it with that screen attached. Altering the volume of air without altering the ECU program will alter the A/F.

There is such a small chance that this would add any performace, why risk ******* up such a major component of your EFI for nothing. As was stated, adding a clean air filter would make more of a diference in HP.

Getting your ass on a treadmill and taking off 10 Lbs will do more for your 1/4 Mile than this would ever do.
 
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Black Molly said:
okay so what I am reading now is it may give you 1-3 HP MAYBE but there is a risk just like any other mod. Has anyone had negative effects that are documented?

Try 0.03 WHP...
 
Brian MP5T said:
Do you actually think that just because some don't have the screen, that all don't need it.

The point of my post FROM 2004 ( HOLY s*** I CAN'T BELIEVE YOU BUMPED THIS ), was that when Mazda calibrated the Mass Air for this particular car, they did it with that screen attached. Altering the volume of air without altering the ECU program will alter the A/F.

There is such a small chance that this would add any performace, why risk ******* up such a major component of your EFI for nothing. As was stated, adding a clean air filter would make more of a diference in HP.

Getting your ass on a treadmill and taking off 10 Lbs will do more for your 1/4 Mile than this would ever do.



after working with and installing industrial flow meters of all sorts thaat are worth half the price of a stock msp, i can tell you that it,s not the diffusor thats gonna kill the maf or antyhing else..

the diffusor is there to give out a more spread the air entering it more evenly so the maf will read correctly and with more precision the air entering.

as ANY gaz traveling in a pipe with be faster in the center (where the sensor is btw) that on the sides.

the thing that kills mafs or makes them read even more inprecisely is temperature and CFM..as in cubic feet per minute(the amount).. and the speed of the air entering (Feet per second).... if you say
when Mazda calibrated the Mass Air for this particular car, they did it with that screen attached. Altering the volume of air without altering the ECU program will alter the A/F.

you are correct. the did this with the screen on.

but don't forget that MAF's have limits in FPS( feet per second) also.. the faster the air goes in the less precise it will read and get a maxed out reading long before the actual reading could be read.

another thing about flow sensors is the capability to adjust with tempertature as air is more dense when cold.. thus, getting more oxygen to the engine. thats called temperature compensation. for the same CFM, air at 100 F will be less dense than air at 70 F and fuel injection will "know" by the IAT in the air box that the air is a certain temperature and there are like xxx CFM going on so i need to put xxx amount a fuel.

on a maf relocated setup, ( like yours) you left the IAT on the air filter side but put the maf on the cold pipe AFTER the turbocharger. and since a turbo has a tendency to "compress" air, making it hot.. very hot. (the smaller the turbo, the more air it has to compress to reach the cfm a larger turbo would do at lower psi.. thus, less heat build up of the air) so on a GT25R at let's say, 8 or 9 psi the air is at 200-250 F which is VERY common.. the intercooler coold is down to what.. 150 maybe? sure if you have a FMIC it must help and must be better than this.. but on the stocker.. no way.. and even with a FMIC it's not as cold as outside ambient temperature.. it never will be. so you end up, telling the ECM that the air intake temp is at 70 F while the air thats really entering the engine is at 100-150 F ?

do you think that could make the ECU not give the right amount of fuel for the amount of air in the combustion chamber??

to sum it up,

the diffusor grill may not be the best thing to do but puting the MAF on the cold pipe isin't neither.. both make the ECM misread whats really happening... both make the car less rich.. and since the msp is rich as hell when stock, it might just be a "not so bad" thing..

so stop saying that removing the grill is a bad thing.. most of those running a relocated MAF are in the same boat ... and even worst.. some are running 2" pipe on the cold side, which tends to leave the CMF the same but get the FPS ( feet per second) alot faster.. and m,akes 'em read less precise because they get close(or over) to the maximum flow readable (which leads to lean mixtures...and boom)

no flow meter in the world ( unless specidifed for it) should be runned with more than 30 FPS.. i can tell ya that after installing a few dozens.


Fr0st

Ps: we all triers out here.. in the coming weeks, im going relocated too and im assuming my mods and mistakes.. saying the end of the world is coming because you removed the grill is not something someone should be saying if he's in the same boat.. you using a maf designed to be sucked in air.. not blown by.. so..
 
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Ill go ahead and add my 2 cents. I took mine off when i made my SRI. I dont even think it does anything. If it affected calibration, wouldnt CAI and SRI really mess things up more. Its a stupid arguement, i think that if u r not comfortable removing it, then dont. If u wanna remove it, take it out, its your car! I have seen no changes in my car at ALL since i removed it, its probably just to protect the MAF sensor. <<< thats just a guess, im sure u r all more knowledgable about cars than me.
 
Well I took it out and i did notice slight better throttle response and pick up. Would not say it was a NOS kit bit I am not putting it back in. As for anyone reading this thread... Try it yourself. IF you do not like it put it back in.. no harm done....unless you are a idiot that pokes at the MAF. PS I did clean the MAF Before I took out the Baffle and I did not notice a difference.
 
i know one thing when i took it off my car at my uncles shop it didnt seem to do anything, then he hooked up some probes to the maf from some big ass computer rig and showed me that it was VERY erattic, it would spike 2.5 volts then to 1 volt above normal. we put the screen back in then it was reading normal at idle....i left it in :)
 
I hate to dig up an old thread, but I figured it was better to post in this one than start a new one.

About 2 years ago, I got a set of hard pipes that relocated my MAF. At the time that I relocated the MAF, I popped out the plastic screen and installed the MAF. I had been driving around without the plastic mesh in my MAF for 2 years. I didn't think it was a big deal. The car bogged a bit and suffered wheel hop, but I thought the wheel hop was just from bad motor mount bushings or something. The car ran pig rich, but I just attributed that to how the cars were already running very rich.

Anyway, last Friday I failed the VA emissions inspection. They said they couldn't get a good read and there was too much unburnt fuel in the exhaust. I started thinking about the plastic screen in the MAF, and I put it back in 2 days ago and reset the ECU. The car actually runs much better! The low-rpm bog has been eliminated and I don't smell nearly as much unburnt fuel in the exhaust. Accelleration is a bit more linear.

I'll be taking it back for emissions soon and I'll let you know what happens.

Lesson learned: Don't remove the screen!
 
That blows. Mine came loose and turned 90 degrees basically making the air split and go aroung the signal element thingy. The car spit up coolant and was misfiring and threw a cyl misfire code. I was going to clean it for s**** and thats how I found it. But I would gladly take my experience over yours. So I currently don't have it in there. I should put it back in now that I have a wideband and see if my afr's change.
 

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