Forge BPV leaking?

[Tyrdstorm]

So I just got my Forge BPV in the mail today which I bought used off another member. Right now I'm completely stock, but I just wanted to try it out. (Should be getting a PG TIP & SRI soon if they ever ship it)

After putting it on with 2 shims + blue spring my car felt like it was leaking boost. I'm not exactly sure what that feels like... best way to describe it is like that power drop off after 5.5k rpm, but all the time. The hoses felt a little loose on it with the factory clamps, so I put some screw clamps on and got it nice and tight. Still felt sluggish.

So then I opened it up to take out a shim and noticed that the seal on where the cap screws on was broken. I'm guessing that was the problem so now I need to go find a new seal. However, when I put my stock BPV back on the car still feels sluggish like it was before. Do I need to reset my ECU? Should I have done that to begin with for just changing a BPV?

Forgive my ignorance, this is my first turbo car.

 

[Darth Vader]

Dude, this car dies like hitting a wall at 5500 rpm with the stock airbox on there.

Look around here for user Patty @ Forge. He can probably get you anything you need but, it sounds pretty much like stock MS3 high rpm behaviour. There's a price to be paid for having V8 grunt at 2500 rpm.

 

[Tyrdstorm]

Dude, this car dies like hitting a wall at 5500 rpm with the stock airbox on there.

Look around here for user Patty @ Forge. He can probably get you anything you need but, it sounds pretty much like stock MS3 high rpm behaviour. There's a price to be paid for having V8 grunt at 2500 rpm.

I know, I was saying it felt like it was hitting a wall all the time... like it was never getting boost. First gear felt fine, then second just seemed weak.

 

[714ms3]

You don't need those shims in there if you have no other mods on the car. What you are describing, as stated prior, sounds like all MS3's without any kind of ECU management/tuning.
If you want power to redline try picking up a COBB AP.

 

[Sp33dFr33k]

Think you guys are missing his point. He is trying to say it feels like the power in the low rpm range is the same as when he hits the dropoff. Sometimes a change to the car can cause a different sensation and it can be mistaken. If you can borrow someones dash hawk or something similar give it a shot to see what your boost is looking like. A picture of the seal and the installation would be helpful as well. Pics of where the clamps are.

 

[ReNaToMS3]

Just my little input...

I just got mine as well yesterday.

First thing i did was take the whole thing apart, buy some synthetic grease (mobil mobilith shc220), clean everything and re-grease it. Put a solid layer of grease in-between the two o-ring seals, and a thin layer on the outside of the piston (the fat part). This is optional if you got a new one, but open it up to make sure you got some grease on the locations i said.

Quick little test to see if the valve is leaking: With your finger (or pen), push the bottom of piston until it's fully compressed against the spring (use a blue or yellow one with no shims). Once it's fully compressed, put one finger on the little nipple on top of the valve (where you connect the smaller hose). Now release the piston with you finger pressed against the little nipple.

If the valve fully closes BEFORE you take your finger from the nipple, you got a leaking valve. If it's not leaking, you should hear the valve closing AFTER you take the finger outta there. Re-grease the valve and you should be okay.

Also, i don't think you need the 2 shims if your car is stock. I got just the blue spring/no shims because im stock as well. I don't think you will hear any ping with a stock airbox.

Hope it helps.

 

[Tyrdstorm]

Thanks Sp33dFr33k and ReNaToMS3, that's the kind of information I was looking for. I should hopefully be getting my SRI & TIP in this week (crosses fingers), so I'll go ahead and give it a good cleaning/greasing and put in a new seal. That way it will be ready for when I put in the other stuff.

With the SRI & TIP I was thinking blue spring with 1 or 2 shims. Does that sound about right?

 

[ReNaToMS3]

Yes, youre right. Funny thing is i will be installing the same two things next week lol.

It can now vary. Some people use only one shim, others two. Use a boost gauge or dashawk to see what configuration holds boost better.

 

[Sp33dFr33k]

With the mods u are adding a lot of people seem to be running the red spring and I gave red a shot seems to work well.

 

[Tyrdstorm]

Quick little test to see if the valve is leaking: With your finger (or pen), push the bottom of piston until it's fully compressed against the spring (use a blue or yellow one with no shims). Once it's fully compressed, put one finger on the little nipple on top of the valve (where you connect the smaller hose). Now release the piston with you finger pressed against the little nipple.

If the valve fully closes BEFORE you take your finger from the nipple, you got a leaking valve. If it's not leaking, you should hear the valve closing AFTER you take the finger outta there. Re-grease the valve and you should be okay.

So I push the valve all the way up against the spring and it's supposed to stay up while I have my finger on the nipple? Is it supposed to be really hard to press the valve up? Mine doesn't even come close to staying up, it just drops right back down. There is suction though, when I release my finger from the nipple it releases some air.

Is there some sort of grease I can buy at autozone or advanced auto? I'm having a hard time finding the mobil SHC 220 stuff.

 

[AllLostThings]

I bought a used Forge and all the internals were greased from the pervious owner. To run it stock though you don't need the shims and should probably put in the yellow spring. I may be wrong on the spring but get the shims out.

 

[ReNaToMS3]

So I push the valve all the way up against the spring and it's supposed to stay up while I have my finger on the nipple? Is it supposed to be really hard to press the valve up? Mine doesn't even come close to staying up, it just drops right back down. There is suction though, when I release my finger from the nipple it releases some air.

Is there some sort of grease I can buy at autozone or advanced auto? I'm having a hard time finding the mobil SHC 220 stuff.

I believe any synthetic grease will do...

Use the YELLOW spring to do the test, or the BLUE. It's not supposed to stay all the way up, it should go back down but not all the way. It will be just a tiny space (prob 1/16" gap) and when you take your finger outta the nipple, that's when it shuts completely. I think yours is good.

If you're stock = blue/no shims usually is the way to go.

 

[Darth Vader]

Red + no shims works a treat on my CAI/TIP, DP car. Torque is very strong with this setup, the car is hilarious that way. It worked great without the recently installed DP, too.

Try it, see if you like it.

 

[uthemang31]

So I just got my Forge BPV in the mail today which I bought used off another member. Right now I'm completely stock, but I just wanted to try it out. (Should be getting a PG TIP & SRI soon if they ever ship it)

After putting it on with 2 shims + blue spring my car felt like it was leaking boost. I'm not exactly sure what that feels like... best way to describe it is like that power drop off after 5.5k rpm, but all the time. The hoses felt a little loose on it with the factory clamps, so I put some screw clamps on and got it nice and tight. Still felt sluggish.

So then I opened it up to take out a shim and noticed that the seal on where the cap screws on was broken. I'm guessing that was the problem so now I need to go find a new seal. However, when I put my stock BPV back on the car still feels sluggish like it was before. Do I need to reset my ECU? Should I have done that to begin with for just changing a BPV?

Forgive my ignorance, this is my first turbo car.

Did you get this issue resolved? I just wanted to make sure since I sold it to you.

Sunny

 

[mr_mazda329]

Did you get this issue resolved? I just wanted to make sure since I sold it to you.

Sunny

Last I heard, he bought the reduild kit from forge and it was running good.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4861520&postcount=3920