Flickering A/c Switch

[BOOSTR]

With warranty work it's whichever comes first, time or mileage, so you have none based on the age of the car.

I never did anything to resolve this issue. Seeing how it only happened in "2" I would just turn the dial up or down. That always works and even after all this time and mileage (104,500) so does my AC and its never been recharged since buying it new.

 

[Merryfrankster]

I looked into this too. I have nine Mazda Protege's in service, so this was getting to be a problem, generating repeat complaints from customers about non-working a/c. All nine cars were showing similar symptoms of intermittent a/c switch light going off and a/c blowing warm. I spoke with a reputable dealer service manager who suggested that just replacing the blower switch would be sufficient - they did not consider it necessary to replace the entire control unit. I ordered a couple of new switches to test. They did the trick. So I went ahead with replacing the others, nine altogether. Each switch is about $20. The control units would have been more than $200 each. Installation is not too difficult if you are able to wiggle yourself under the dashboard to release the two cables, vent control lever on the driver side, and heater control lever on the passenger side. With the cables released the center panel pops right out of the dashboard, giving access to the switch. Alternatively you can pull the radio unit out and access the switch directly underneath. At about $20 a pop this is well worth doing to get properly functioning a/c - assuming the rest of the system is ok.

 

[RyanJayG]

I looked into this too. I have nine Mazda Protege's in service, so this was getting to be a problem, generating repeat complaints from customers about non-working a/c. All nine cars were showing similar symptoms of intermittent a/c switch light going off and a/c blowing warm. I spoke with a reputable dealer service manager who suggested that just replacing the blower switch would be sufficient - they did not consider it necessary to replace the entire control unit. I ordered a couple of new switches to test. They did the trick. So I went ahead with replacing the others, nine altogether. Each switch is about $20. The control units would have been more than $200 each. Installation is not too difficult if you are able to wiggle yourself under the dashboard to release the two cables, vent control lever on the driver side, and heater control lever on the passenger side. With the cables released the center panel pops right out of the dashboard, giving access to the switch. Alternatively you can pull the radio unit out and access the switch directly underneath. At about $20 a pop this is well worth doing to get properly functioning a/c - assuming the rest of the system is ok.

Do you have the part number for the switch you used?

 

[hornsfan10609]

I used to replace fan switches all the time at Mazda, it's the exact same switch they used in the Mazda 3 which develop the same problem. Most dealers will not offer to replace just the switch they want to make more money and sell you the entire unit. Labor time is about an hour for that switch and I could replace one it about 5 minutes so they were gravy for me.

 

[BOOSTR]

$20, I'll fix it. Part number anyone?

 

[Merryfrankster]

I can't seem to find the actual part number - maybe it is on my paperwork somewhere. I'll try to look it up later. But here's a link to the part listing:

Blower motor switch

Hope this helps!

 

[Merryfrankster]

Here it is! I've found the part number.

LB8361200A hvac, controls, blower motor switch Protege

The old switches that I removed all looked yellowed and possibly heat damaged. This would explain the malfunction.

Also, there is a 14mm lock-nut that goes around the shaft of the switch to hold it in place against the dashboard center panel wall. Unless you have an EXTREMELY thin wall socket, to fit in the opening for the knob/handle, you will have to get creative to remove the lock-nut. If the switch is sufficiently old and brittle, you can just break it off. Or you can delicately reach in and grab the lock-nut with a pair of needle-nose pliers to get it turning. Fortunately the lock-nut and the switch shaft are both what seems to be polyethylene plastic - otherwise, if they were metal, they would be welded in place by corrosion.

 

[BOOSTR]

Awesome, thanks for updating with part information. I buy all OEM parts from that dealer online too.

 

[hornsfan10609]

I just pop them out, it breaks the plastic a little but the switch is still very secure.

 

[Hank3]

This fix is easy and cheap:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123819018

My AC has been flicker free for close to a year now.

 

[hornsfan10609]

Thats more of a band-aid to the actual repair of replacing the switch.