First mod done, and a jerky Pro5?

[Finaldo]

I just did the first mod on my car today, at 53,000 miles. I put on an AEM intake, and so far I'm very happy with it. I had already swapped in a K&N air filter and had noticed some throttle response and a bit more power throughout acceleration, but adding the intake seems to do a bit more. I see that most people here have the Injen intake, but I got this as a Christmas gift -- anyway it seems like most of the CAIs are the same anyway.

Now for the second part of the topic of this post. This Pro5 of mine is the most jerky car I've ever driven. Anyone else have a similar problem? In first or second gear, if I'm in very very slow traffic or stop & go traffic, if I keep constant RPMs of around 1500 or so, and step on the gas a bit or let it off gently and step on it a bit, the car starts jerking, it's pretty annoying. No other manual cars I've owned have done this, so I'm inclined to think it's not my shifting ability -- especially since my foot is off the clutch. I'm trying to find out what might be going on with the car. It's done this since I bought it pretty much, and the dealerships haven't been able to give me any answers. It just seems like there's too much "play" in the engine for where the acceleration and "engine breaking" kick in. This may be a pretty bad explanation, but I'm a newbie with modding cars, and don't really know any better way to put it.

Anyway, the car sounds great with the AEM intake. Not sure what mods to do next, but I'd like to see what I can do about the jerky driving, and then maybe get some headers and exhaust...

Also, I'm thinking about getting some bigger rotors, since I'm having some break issues right now, and might need to replace mine. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

[Lord_Zath]

A few thoughts come to mind.

1. Try resetting the ECU. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, pump the brakes three times, and reconnect the battery. You'll need to reset radio stations and clock, but the car will relearn power curves and such.

2. Try cleaning out the EGR valve. There's a thread in this forum titled "HOW TO: Clean EGR Valve" or something like that. Read up on it.

3. The p5 is a torquey car and maybe that's causing the jerkiness?

 

[RedP5er]

Well, all manual cars I have driven behave like this to a certain degree. The engine mount and compression ratio of the engine are couple of many factors that determine the jerkiness.

I think the problem is that your foot is OFF the clutch. To drive a manual smoothly at low speed, I usually depress the clutch the same time like lift off throttle and re-apply the clutch slowly as I step on the gas again. Mind you that I have never learned to drive a stick formally, but I have been driving manual for over ten years. I may have acquired some bad habits...

Anyway, like the previous poster said, trying resetting the ECU and see if that helps. (thumb)

 

[rjmhotrod]

Check out my post regarding the "jerky" ride. Others have experienced it as well.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84361

 

[paranoidxe]

I have the same problem, but its a bigger problem when I first start driving the car, once the engine is warmed up it pretty much dissappears. I'm thinking my issue might be spark plugs.

 

[Finaldo]

Check out my post regarding the "jerky" ride. Others have experienced it as well.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84361

I read that thread, it sounds like a lot more people have the problem. I do plan on modding the exhaust, which one person said they noticed it less. Maybe I'll look into getting that stiffer front engine mount. Still, my car will buck in 2nd gear, though it is much less than first gear.

Also found out today that my rear driver-side break's piston is pretty much stuck, which ended up wearing the inside shoe down on my breakpad to nothing. I was GOING to buy bigger rotors and calipers, but since I need to replace this ASAP and don't have time to shop for the better break stuff, I might just forget about break upgrades.

Have any of you gotten break upgrades, and how much difference have you noticed? Also, if you don't mind me asking, how much did it run you for all the new break hardware?

 

[rjmhotrod]

I have the same problem, but its a bigger problem when I first start driving the car, once the engine is warmed up it pretty much dissappears. I'm thinking my issue might be spark plugs.

2002 P5's had a cold clutch chatter issue that a TSB was issued for. If your car is still under warranty, then find a copy of the TSB (I've seen it on the forums somewhere) and take it to the dealer. They should replace it.

 

[viVid]

Have any of you gotten break upgrades, and how much difference have you noticed? Also, if you don't mind me asking, how much did it run you for all the new break hardware?

I just went with SS Brake Lines and EBC Greenstuff pads. I got the SS Lines at Corksport for around $100 and the pads I bought from Turfburn for about $140:

http://www.msprotege.com/vbb300/showthread.php?t=106555&highlight=ebc+green

 

[Replica]

2002 P5's had a cold clutch chatter issue that a TSB was issued for. If your car is still under warranty, then find a copy of the TSB (I've seen it on the forums somewhere) and take it to the dealer. They should replace it.

good luck with that!

 

[Jack Daniels]

The engine has very little torque especially at lower RPM's. Got to slip the clutch unfortunately.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

I have about 330.00 in brembo drilled slotted discs, hawk hps pads & ss lines front & rear...same factory size

 

[rjmhotrod]

good luck with that!

Notice I said they SHOULD replace it.

A lot of dealers will deny that the problem exists or that the TSB exists. Thats why you need a copy of the TSB in hand when you go to the dealer.

 

[viVid]

Unfortunately, a TSB is not a recall - they are under no obligation to replace it, even with the TSB in hand. Been there, done that...

 

[dark86]

i installed my AEM intake yesterday too....
but can't hear anything different from the stock one at all...
anyone have any idea why?

 

[Finaldo]

i installed my AEM intake yesterday too....
but can't hear anything different from the stock one at all...
anyone have any idea why?

My first guess is that you actually didn't install it? (boom07)

Does your AEM intake go from the trottlebody down into the engine, kinda near the driver's side front wheel? After I put my intake on, I noticed a huge difference in sound, when you step on it, it's got a throatier sound. Also, when you rev, there's a slight chirp sound as it initially sucks in air.

But anyway, are you sure you installed it correctly? You reused the MAF sensor and air temp sensor from the stock intake, right?

 

[paranoidxe]

2002 P5's had a cold clutch chatter issue that a TSB was issued for. If your car is still under warranty, then find a copy of the TSB (I've seen it on the forums somewhere) and take it to the dealer. They should replace it.

My clutch doesn't "chatter" at all..how can I tell if I have that issue?

 

[dark86]

yea i think i installed it right..


does this looks right?

 

[Finaldo]

yea i think i installed it right..


does this looks right?

It looks right to me. But yoru intake is completely different than the one I got from AEM. WHen you go "pedal to the metal" it doesn't sound different at all?

 

[dark86]

It looks right to me. But yoru intake is completely different than the one I got from AEM. WHen you go "pedal to the metal" it doesn't sound different at all?

yea it sound the same
but yea.. mine is the auto version..

 

[Finaldo]

yea it sound the same
but yea.. mine is the auto version..

Mine's manual. I'm a bit of a noob with cars, but maybe that's the reason... Anyway your install looks right to me!