First impressions of my new 2013 CX-9 Grand Touring (I like it but pheeeew)

Going back to the first post, satwar, I agree that the fake wood on the GT looks bad. In the Touring, you get a shiny black plastic, and I think it looks great. Almost every car in the class has ugly fake wood on the top trim level. I say go with the plastic because it looks better.

You're getting scratches on the silver trim? We've had my wife's 2012 for a year and it has no scratches. I want to test it to see how tough it is but because of your post I'm afraid to!

The fake wood looks pretty decent to me, at least on my 2012 GT. The 2013 GT has a different fake wood described as "mahogany" in the specs. Maybe I'm okay with it because it looks a helluva lot better than the awful fake wood in my previous 2007 Explorer.

I absolutely HATE the glossy black trim, or "piano black" to be exact! I only have it in a few spots- around the steering-wheel-mounted buttons on the steering wheel spokes, surrounding the audio controls and display and on the gearshift gate. But it always has a fingerprint or smudge on it somewhere and that drives me crazy!

As for the silver trim....I can speak first hand about it's durability, or lack thereof! My 2012 GT is only four months old (bought it on Black Friday) and the silver trim on the side on the passenger side of the center console has two nasty scratches located about 3/4 of the way back. I'm almost certain that it's from the seatbelt latch plate hitting it instead of the intended buckle. It's only visible from the passenger side when the seat it empty, so it's out of sight to me 99.9% of the time, but it still pisses me off on a $40k car!!!

If a few bits of interior trim and the keyless entry and power liftgate functions are the only complaints I have, I'm doing quite well! I've usually found one or more major flaws in most of my cars by this point! The only other cars I've owned and had so few complaints about are my 2006 Mazda3 and my 1994 Acura Legend...so the CX-9 is in lofty company! =)
 
Sorry, I meant that the silver paint looks like trouble, not that I have actually scratched it. My concern is around the seat buckle area because I have a hard time finding the slot to insert the buckle tongue.

Overall though I agree that the CX-9 is an excellent car.
 
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What got me thinking about different ways of implementing proximity keyless entry systems was this reputable review of 2013 CX-9: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDCMD9TqZ2Y

Now I said to myself, there's no way opening the liftgate has to be that bad, but it certainly shows how confusing things can get. You can certainly streamline the process by configuring the Personal Preferences to unlock all doors with a single unlock request and using the liftgate unlock request button instead of the advanced keyless remote. I'm satisfied with the way I've been able to configure the door unlock process, but I have to agree with the reviewer that it could be better.
As I understand it, your new car can be programmed to lock automatically via proximity, (no buttons) but not unlock.
 
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As I understand it, your new car can be programmed to lock automatically via proximity, (no buttons) but not unlock.

This is not true. It can be programed to lock automatically when the car is put in drive, or hits a certain speed, but not based on walking away with the key. And, other than the post above on Wiki, I can find no evidence of any mfg proximity key that automatically unlocks the car as you approach it, without touching something.
 
Page 10-8 of the 2013 owners manual. Personalization Features:

The following “Personalization Features” are available. These settings can only be changed by an Authorized Mazda Dealer.

The function to automatically lock the doors and the liftgate when leaving the vehicle while carrying the key can be activated*
 
And, other than the post above on Wiki, I can find no evidence of any mfg proximity key that automatically unlocks the car as you approach it, without touching something.

Volvo seems to do it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQ7m3Er27aM&feature=related

Hard to know whether they're bundling the unlock and open actions with one touch of the handle, or whether unlock occurs on proximity and one touch opens door.

The main annoyance is the two step process for the liftgate, which some manufacturers have made a point of advertising works with one touch.
 
If you have a power liftgate, it's a real liability and there should be an extra step to prevent damage or injuries, but the 2nd clicks for passenger doors and trunklock are a PIA.

Some engineer will have an excuse, (er, I mean explanation) for this. "Designed to keep stalkers out of your car"?? (dark)
 
If you have a power liftgate, it's a real liability and there should be an extra step to prevent damage or injuries, but the 2nd clicks for passenger doors and trunklock are a PIA.

Well I could say, but probably shouldn't, that I find the ability to unlock and open the rear liftgate 200 ft away from the vehicle (range is great for finding your car) is far more dangerous than standing behind the liftgate and opening it with one step. Further, every manufacturer seems to be moving towards one step opening of doors and liftgates when in proximity of a smart key.

I find this smart key business presenting new challenges. I have to think about how I'm going to go scuba diving or jet skiing. I can't take these keys with me, like a simple mechanical key, and I really have to experiment with hiding it in a metal box behind the front grille, to prevent the car from being left wide open with a push of the unlock request button. I've noticed that I have to be very close to the front door before the proximity feature in the smart key starts working, so I'm probably okay hiding behind the front grille.
 
It's around 30" from the side doors or the rear. Then anyone quicker than you is free to drive her off,..

Tell me Sat, do you really like the trendy new ability to open a trunk with your foot?

I kinda worry about my car outfoxing me. Most toasters I've owned can do that. (lol2)
 
Well I could say, but probably shouldn't, that I find the ability to unlock and open the rear liftgate 200 ft away from the vehicle (range is great for finding your car) is far more dangerous than standing behind the liftgate and opening it with one step. Further, every manufacturer seems to be moving towards one step opening of doors and liftgates when in proximity of a smart key.

I find this smart key business presenting new challenges. I have to think about how I'm going to go scuba diving or jet skiing. I can't take these keys with me, like a simple mechanical key, and I really have to experiment with hiding it in a metal box behind the front grille, to prevent the car from being left wide open with a push of the unlock request button. I've noticed that I have to be very close to the front door before the proximity feature in the smart key starts working, so I'm probably okay hiding behind the front grille.

Why is this different than any other key? You would go scuba diving or jet skiing with your keys if you didn't have a smart key?
 
I find this smart key business presenting new challenges. I have to think about how I'm going to go scuba diving or jet skiing. I can't take these keys with me, like a simple mechanical key, and I really have to experiment with hiding it in a metal box behind the front grille, to prevent the car from being left wide open with a push of the unlock request button. I've noticed that I have to be very close to the front door before the proximity feature in the smart key starts working, so I'm probably okay hiding behind the front grille.

Couldn't you just slide the 'rescue key' out of the remote fob and take it with you in the water?
 
Couldn't you just slide the 'rescue key' out of the remote fob and take it with you in the water?

Problem is it has an electronic chip mounted on it. It looks robust but I don't think the manufacturer would support taking it for a swim.
 
Why is this different than any other key? You would go scuba diving or jet skiing with your keys if you didn't have a smart key?

Absolutely, I simply wear a mechanical key around my neck and I'm good to go. Alternately I hide the mechanical key under the car.

The problem with using "emergency key" around my neck is that it has an electronic chip on it, so maybe not a good idea to go swimming with it. Hiding outside the car I have to make sure I don't trigger any door proximity sensors.
 
Absolutely, I simply wear a mechanical key around my neck and I'm good to go. Alternately I hide the mechanical key under the car.

The problem with using "emergency key" around my neck is that it has an electronic chip on it, so maybe not a good idea to go swimming with it. Hiding outside the car I have to make sure I don't trigger any door proximity sensors.

I emailed an old friend of mine who is really into white water kayaking and competitive mountain biking. She has a small case made by OtterBox with just enough room for her car remote and some cash. Here's a link that she sent- https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

The last time we talked, she was driving a Toyota 4Runner, so I asked her whether she had a conventional key and remote or a 'smart key' fob. Her response made me laugh so hard that my eyes are still watering! She said, "I traded in the 4Runner and decided to embrace the cliche...I have a 2012 Subaru Outback, official vehicle of lesbians everywhere!" (bowdown)

Anyway, I did some quick research and all 2012 Legacy/Outback models have a one-piece remote control and key and it's larger than our 'smart key'. So your key would easily fit in one of those cases....maybe that would work for you?
 
Absolutely, I simply wear a mechanical key around my neck and I'm good to go. Alternately I hide the mechanical key under the car.

The problem with using "emergency key" around my neck is that it has an electronic chip on it, so maybe not a good idea to go swimming with it. Hiding outside the car I have to make sure I don't trigger any door proximity sensors.

I'd be nervous that the string would break.

I have seen other posts where the electronic key was placed in a foil lined pouch in the car, but slide out the mechanical part of the key and take that with them. And keep in mind, the key has to be REALLY close to the call button on the handle for it to unlock the car. A few feet definitely makes a difference.
 
Well Ford has something called the Intelligent Access Key. The vehicle detects the key when it is near and when you reach to pull the door handle the locks will open. The whole idea is to keep the key in your pocket or purse, walkup, doors open, push start, and drive away. This is on the higher trim levels for the SUVs and the Taurus. It is easy to change the settings to how you like or disable if your worried about getting car jacked. Remote start on them is push lock 1x then the start button 2x on the fob. Simple and works good.
 
Problem is it has an electronic chip mounted on it. It looks robust but I don't think the manufacturer would support taking it for a swim.
My salesman implied that you could take just the key to the beach and swim with it. I think I'll wait a bit to try that. (whistle)
 
My salesman implied that you could take just the key to the beach and swim with it. I think I'll wait a bit to try that. (whistle)

I accidentally left mine in my jacket pocket thru the washing machine--it came out fine. I'm not recommending you do that, though.
 
Low voltage electronics are water-proof.
Chips used in mobile devices (remotes also) are of low voltage (<3V) to save power.
P = C*F*V^2
Power consumption is proportional to the square of voltage.

However, LCD backlights in your smart phones are of high-voltage (>15V).
Do not drop them into water. The backlight is the first to go!
 
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