First cx5 failure

I'm about to hit 60k with my 15 Touring. Tires are rotated at every oil change (since lots of rural driving ever 6k miles) and the rotors are fine. I did have to change the tires at about 55k miles with Conti's and one keyfarb battery went. Other then that no problems, knock wood.
 
I'm about to hit 60k with my 15 Touring. Tires are rotated at every oil change (since lots of rural driving ever 6k miles) and the rotors are fine. I did have to change the tires at about 55k miles with Conti's and one keyfarb battery went. Other then that no problems, knock wood.

This gives me hope! I want to use my stock tires for atleast 60K miles too, then pop some good ones.
 
Unobtanium: Do you have the smart key on your CX-5? I've found those last a lot less than the standard FOBs. The one on my Infiniti only lasts about a year.
 
but it has 55k miles and rotors did well considering how many times the tires were rotated (this kills rotors in my experience)!
Only if they're over torqued...
 
You should have gotten a low battery key fob warning on the dash. At least I got to see one on my Mazdaspeed3. I also replaced the key fob battery after a year for my Speed. I would be really surprised if the CX-5 key fob will not emit the same kind of low battery warning.
 
Tire rotation doesn't kill rotors. Uneven lug nut torquing warps rotors, as does spraying water on hot rotors when washing the car, etc. First time I tried removing the wheels on my 1st car with the factory tire iron, I tightened them up until it "felt right", and ended up with warped rotors. Then I bought a torque wrench. Never had a warped rotor from removing/installing wheels since then, and that was 20 years ago.

It could even be a cheap torque wrench. What's important is that the lug nuts are tightened EVENLY, and in a star pattern.

...and rotating tires leads to this when you don't do the work yourself or take it to a specialty shop. Every dealer I have been to has done this except for Nissan, who payed out the nose to replace all my stuff, and who from then on had only the GT-R tech work on my 370Z. It was pretty shameful.
 
You should have gotten a low battery key fob warning on the dash. At least I got to see one on my Mazdaspeed3. I also replaced the key fob battery after a year for my Speed. I would be really surprised if the CX-5 key fob will not emit the same kind of low battery warning.

Nope. Unless you mean the thing that blinks when it cant sense the key.
 
You should have gotten a low battery key fob warning on the dash. At least I got to see one on my Mazdaspeed3. I also replaced the key fob battery after a year for my Speed. I would be really surprised if the CX-5 key fob will not emit the same kind of low battery warning.

I got a low battery warning on the dash. This was after about a year and a half of use.
 
I rarely press any buttons on my keyfob and let the autolock do it's thing (as wonky as that can be as I've explained a few times) and it just came up saying weak battery - that's 26 months. I switched to the other keyfob and it's working and will replace the batteries in both at the same time. Here it's only 8.99 for 2 name brand batteries from Canadian Tire.
 
...and rotating tires leads to this when you don't do the work yourself or take it to a specialty shop. Every dealer I have been to has done this except for Nissan, who payed out the nose to replace all my stuff, and who from then on had only the GT-R tech work on my 370Z. It was pretty shameful.

I guess I'm just used to doing stuff myself for the past 15+ years. On my Integra I usually swap my wheels to my backup OEM set when getting new tires on my regular wheels. I drop off the wheels and tires at the shop, then pick them up later in the day, and swap them back on at home. Torque everything to spec.

When I had my first car in high school, whenever we would take it to the shop for anything, we would make them put a note on the work order to NOT use an air wrench on the wheels, only a torque wrench. Who knows if they actually did it or not.
 
I replace my fob battery once a year regardless, why wait for problems? Only costs a few bucks...

I replace optic and WML batteries on my birthday, but having never had a fob battery die, and it honestly not being a life sustaining device, I honestly never considered it, but I will put it on the same schedule.
 
I guess I'm just used to doing stuff myself for the past 15+ years. On my Integra I usually swap my wheels to my backup OEM set when getting new tires on my regular wheels. I drop off the wheels and tires at the shop, then pick them up later in the day, and swap them back on at home. Torque everything to spec.

When I had my first car in high school, whenever we would take it to the shop for anything, we would make them put a note on the work order to NOT use an air wrench on the wheels, only a torque wrench. Who knows if they actually did it or not.

I don't work on my own stuff anymore. BTDT, just wasn't my passion. That said, I will speak with the techs and see if they are willing to let me tighten the lugs in the future.
 
I rarely press any buttons on my keyfob and let the autolock do it's thing (as wonky as that can be as I've explained a few times) and it just came up saying weak battery - that's 26 months. I switched to the other keyfob and it's working and will replace the batteries in both at the same time. Here it's only 8.99 for 2 name brand batteries from Canadian Tire.

Autolock wouldn't work. What is it anyway? I've tried unlocking it and it wouldn't work, but my vehicle does not lock doors automatically.
 
I replace optic and WML batteries on my birthday, but having never had a fob battery die, and it honestly not being a life sustaining device, I honestly never considered it, but I will put it on the same schedule.

Keep in mind that you can always use the physical key to unlock the car and you can press a FOB with a dead battery against the push button start to start the car.
No need to be proactive about replacing the battery.
 
Keep in mind that you can always use the physical key to unlock the car and you can press a FOB with a dead battery against the push button start to start the car.
No need to be proactive about replacing the battery.

I am aware, but I do view being able to quickly get in and start my vehicle as a safety measure. I'm used to living in shifty areas, where leaving the area quickly can avoid things escalating.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back