First 30k service

[RatLabGuy]

Well guys, my '03 P3 is pushing the 30k mark so it's time for some attention.
For background, i've very accustomed to doing all my own maintanance... but I bought this car planning to now spend my time doing other things....
and I'm proud of myself for owning it 1 month now and opening the hood only twice, once when buying it and just last week to check the oil before a 500 mile trip.

Anyhow when I called the dealer and asked the price on the 30k service, nearly choked... w/ Christmas, T-day travel and eveyrthing upcoming, that's just not gonna happen.
So i'm looking for suggestions, input/info on the right parts for replacement.
E.e. What is the oe oil filter, is there a better route? What are the oe plugs, is it worth pulling 'em now? is it worth the effort to inspect timing belt? etc etc.

 

[Kansei]

Pushing the 30k mark? wanna trade? Mine is at 76k.

Don't bother inspecting the timing belt.
OEM oil filter from the 2000 Mazda 626 V6 is the best bet.. OEM quality, but it's longer than the P5 oil filter so you get like 20% more filtration capacity.

For plugs.. get the OEM NGK BFR5F-11 or go with the JDM long reach ZFR5F-11 plugs, either way it'll cost you less than 9 dollars. I don't know if the OEM wires might need a replacing, but just get the OEM wires or NGK if a parts store carries them (I think the OEM are NGK anyway).

Maybe an air filter too if yours hasn't been replaced lately.

 

[RatLabGuy]

Ya, i'm quite proud of the deal I scored on this vehicle. SUPER low mileage.

Sooooo....
What is the OEM brand oil filter? A/C Delco?
Think the plugs need replacing already?
i guess I'll at least pull 'em and measure the gap etc.

 

[II-Savy]

Read your Owners Manual and do everything that you can like oil, inspections, and then have a trusted family mechanic do the rest.

 

[Cellerator]

HOLY CRAP, 30k, nice job. Although I'm at 42...

sorry about getting offtopic, anyways, wires should be fine, but plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter. I remember the dealer had some bs 30k mile inspection, don't bother. It's a stupid oil change w/ a bunch of inspecting of this and that which I highly doubt they bother doing and it costs a bunch. Just tell them that you just want a oil change, tire rotation, air filter change, and get your own long reach plugs like the guy said above, they help the car run smoother.

 

[RatLabGuy]

Well, unless this car uses a left-handed upside down Turkish bolt or something for the drain plug, I should be able to do all the basic stuff myself (oil, filter, plugs, yada yada).... i spent the weekend swapping front differentials on the 4Runner, it can't be more work than that!

Was just looking at the owner's manual, looks like its 75% "inspect".
only thing I wonder is - where are al l the places to check for "Lubricate all hinges and locks". Don't think I've ever actually bothered to do that on a car.

Oh - "Idle speed - inspect". obviously I can read the tach at idle, duh. If it's off - is there even a way to adjust it? And related - Does this car have a way to check the timing/advance via the good-ol timing gun?

 

[BKJT05]

yea i baught my car about 6 months ago and it had 30,700 miles on it, im at i think 36,700 now and i havent done anything to it, checked oil and filter, looked good, but i think i should take it in a get an oil change or put new filter etc....

 

[fonzinator]

Here's what I did at 30K:
- New NGK V-Power plugs.
- New disposable air filter (take your pick).
- Switched to synthetic oil (Mobil 1 EP Synthetic and Mobil 1 EP filter).
- White Lithium grease (comes in a spray can) in door locks and on door hinges.

That's it - a few hours of work and you're done. You might add a tranny fluid change if you really feel like it, though the owner's manual doesn't call for it.

 

[Moonman8]

The OEM Mazda spark plugs are the best (the P5 hates the Iridiums and all that fancy crap). Note that the longer reach plugs advance the timing just enough to where you might have to use higher octane fuel to avoid pinging. However, they make your fuel economy go up a bit and they smooth out the engine A LOT...no more rough starts or bucking and very smooth revving all the way up to redline.

Also, the OEM Mazda oil filter (whether it be the regular P5 model or the larger 626 model) is the best route. FRAM is crap and the OEM will beat anything else you might find in a PepBoys.

If you decide to go synthetic, Mobil 1 or Royal Purple are the better of the lot. I've run Castrol Syntec, Mobil 1, and Royal Purple in my car. No difference between Mobil 1 and RP but Mobil 1 is cheaper and both are better than Castrol.

Plug wires shouldn't have to be replaced unless they are damaged in some way.

The transmission seems to like synthetic oil, too. I use Redline MT-90 and it likes to shift gears a little better in cold weather. Little pricey at $12 a quart but the tranny only takes a little under 3 quarts and you only have to change it every 30k if not longer.

If you have any money left over after all of that, invest in a K&N drop-in air filter if you don't plan on getting an aftermarket intake. Never replace an air filter again, only cleaning. I loved mine before I decided to get a cold-air.

There is a thread around here about cleaning out the EGR valve too. I cleaned mine out and it was pretty gunked up (common problem among the FS-DE engines). It's a bit of a b**** to get to but if you have a couple of smaller 12mm wrenches then you'll be in good shape. Costs nothing if you already have a can of carb cleaner.

Also check the tires for the need for rotation, other fluids, etc etc. You might even consider using a fuel injector cleaner like Seafoam or Redline just to cover the bases.

 

[Demoniam]

Also, since it's about that season...I'd suggest giving your coolant a check. If it looks dark green, or smells bad, go ahead and replace it. Drain and flush is pretty straight forward. I usually do mine every fall, just because..

 

[RatLabGuy]

Excellent. Thanks for the tips guys.
So if I unerstand right on the plugs, the way to go is NGK V-power zfr5f-11, this is the longer reach deals.
Looks like Advance can get 'em but have to order, others don't even list - is this normal? Not listed for teh car, how would I find a listing otehr than a search/asking?

 

[Kansei]

Yeah they aren't listed for the car.. but they seriously have to order them? I've bought them from Advance Auto in a couple different areas and they've always had them in stock. Weird.

 

[RatLabGuy]

That's just what it says online. I'm stopping by to get oil anyway, so I'll just ask.
Now - is the zfr5f-11 available in both "normal" and "V-power" by NGK?

 

[Cellerator]

V-Power is what I got, seems fine for me.

 

[Kansei]

There is a normal NGK plug? I've always just had the v-power, that's all the auto parts stores seem to carry for copper NGK.

 

[R3DL3TR5]

You guys got any suggestions? I just turned 20k last week? is it time to do the switch to synthetic? Thanks guys!
-wes

 

[RatLabGuy]

^^^ Holy crap, there goes my title as "lowest mileage guy"