A cone air filter directly on the MAF sensor. Is it bad? Can i **** up my car? I've got no CEL... please tell me, i like the sound with the cone otherwise im just going to put the sotck airbox back i dont want to blow my engine.
the filter generates a lot of turbulence which is bad for the MAF. just go and get like a 6" length of piping and an extra coupler and that should be good enough.
You generally want the cone as far away as possible from the MAF to keep the readings stable. Gained myself 5 hp by relocating the filter further away, simply because the signal was more stable.
There won't be issues, per se... but further away is better in terms of power production and MAF operation. It's a cheap mod, and the benefits are worth it.
The grate infront of the MAF is to make the air stream more consistent as it enters the meter. So having your MAF directly hooked to the filter isnt going to make much a diffrence. Might be more louder thou.
IMO, this is not worth moving the filter further away. There are a ton of other goofy things on the MSP I would change first. As others said, that grate pre-MAF hot-wire is there to minimize turbulence. Don't sweat the small stuff.
The grate infront of the MAF is to make the air stream more consistent as it enters the meter. So having your MAF directly hooked to the filter isnt going to make much a diffrence. Might be more louder thou.
Whatever. What we saw on the dyno was what we saw on the dyno. Switched from the long pipe to cone-on-MAF, and we lost 5 hp. (and on the dyno, underhood heat would be no different between the MAF area and the fender) No matter what we did with the timing and fuel maps, we couldn't gain the 5 hp back. Put the long tube back in, and voila, there it was.
Of course, it could be turbulent air from behind the radiator causing some of that... Honda merely moved its airbox and changed the rotation of the radiator fan between the first and second generation Fit and found 5-10 more horses in the midrange that way.
Whichever is the reason, you don't want the filter in that area, so giving it an extra few inches of tubing and getting it into the area behind the headlight is usually worth it.
I have ran the same way for 4 years now. Granted if there is a h.p. or two lost then I don't know. I don't have a dyno to prove it. My car has never had a check engine light.
Yes, it loses power, especially if it's still mounted on the stock plastic inlet pipe. All it does in suck in hot air, increasing your intake air temps, and drains your power.
