Hey guys...has anyone here ever fiberglassed and enclosure before? I was wondering how hard the process is, because I'm thinking of a small custom piece for my trunk so that I could accomodate a 10" and still have a good deal of trunk space. Let me know if you have any good links, tips, etc. on how to build/design this thing.
Fiberglassing...
- Thread starter servoeyes
- Start date
fiberglass
Check that link out, it was posted earlier, and is the most informative fiberglass site i've found.
Check that link out, it was posted earlier, and is the most informative fiberglass site i've found.
link...
That link is awesome! Thanks! I do have another question though...this one is about the design of the enclosure. How big do I need to make a sealed enclosure for 2 10s? (or just one...) Also...what about the shape? Obviously, fiberglass allows some really freaky things...but are there shapes to stay away from or ones that work better than others? Also...sub firing position for the trunk...which direction? At the seats, at the floor, at the rear or some combination halfway in between? I'm so sorry that these are really n00bish questions...but I've never set up my own system before.
That link is awesome! Thanks! I do have another question though...this one is about the design of the enclosure. How big do I need to make a sealed enclosure for 2 10s? (or just one...) Also...what about the shape? Obviously, fiberglass allows some really freaky things...but are there shapes to stay away from or ones that work better than others? Also...sub firing position for the trunk...which direction? At the seats, at the floor, at the rear or some combination halfway in between? I'm so sorry that these are really n00bish questions...but I've never set up my own system before.
haven't decided yet. I think I may go JL or Eclipse, but I really want to hear stuff before I decide. I've heard to pass on audiobahn, I don't like kenwood all that much for bass, no sony, no alpine. Something good, but not comp class. definitely not free-air or isos. I'm not even sure that I can fit two tens in that spot...it'll be mounted where the MSP enclosure is (which is downfiring from the bodyside ceiling in the trunk). One ten may be fine...since I mainly listen to rock. with one ten I may just keep the stock amp, to save cash. Of course...I can always change speakers to better ones down the road if I so choose.
ok...I'm blabbering...just thinking out loud or out silent, sorry.
ok...I'm blabbering...just thinking out loud or out silent, sorry.
Okay, pat me on the back - that was my fiberglass tutorial linked before. 
.
Allright - you should build your sub box to the specs of the sub. Some subs need more airspace than others to perform well, and this information should be easily available (websites, sub literature, etc).
Also know that sealed enclosures are pretty forgiving about airspace - a little bit too small or too large is no big deal, as long as it's reasonably close. A too-small box will have less volume on the lowest bass notes, while a too-big box will have less volume on upper bass. And it still depends on the sub itself.
Shape makes no difference - all that matters is that it is reasonably airtight, is very rigid so it does not flex, and isn't WAY too small or too large.
What I would suggest to you, if you plan to keep the new sub in the stock location, is to scavenge the stock enclosure. Take it out, and use it as the base for the new enclosure. You can cut the opening larger, put a mounting ring for a larger sub up off the plastic, and then fleece and glass over that (see my site aqain). You can also glass over the whole thing once it's done for extra rigidity. And then it's all set to go right back in the stock location - that'd be pretty slick, and fairly easy to construct.
If you'd like to change the location, following my tutorial oughtta get you going in the right direction.
Typically, the popular idea is that it is best to put subs with the back of the box (magnet side of the subs) as close to the rear seats as possible, with the subs themselves facing back (so you look right at 'em when you open the trunk). It is believed that this gives the best overall in-car sound.
True? Maybe. My subs are sideways because I didn't have the room to do it any other way - and they sound great. I tried positioning my previous sub box (non-fiberglass) in many different ways, and never really noticed a difference in sound or volume.
It's up to you. But one thing with fiberglass - the only real limit is your imagination. It's wicked stuff!
I can't wait to get working on my planned door pods - hopefully someday soon........
~HH
.Allright - you should build your sub box to the specs of the sub. Some subs need more airspace than others to perform well, and this information should be easily available (websites, sub literature, etc).
Also know that sealed enclosures are pretty forgiving about airspace - a little bit too small or too large is no big deal, as long as it's reasonably close. A too-small box will have less volume on the lowest bass notes, while a too-big box will have less volume on upper bass. And it still depends on the sub itself.
Shape makes no difference - all that matters is that it is reasonably airtight, is very rigid so it does not flex, and isn't WAY too small or too large.
What I would suggest to you, if you plan to keep the new sub in the stock location, is to scavenge the stock enclosure. Take it out, and use it as the base for the new enclosure. You can cut the opening larger, put a mounting ring for a larger sub up off the plastic, and then fleece and glass over that (see my site aqain). You can also glass over the whole thing once it's done for extra rigidity. And then it's all set to go right back in the stock location - that'd be pretty slick, and fairly easy to construct.
If you'd like to change the location, following my tutorial oughtta get you going in the right direction.
Typically, the popular idea is that it is best to put subs with the back of the box (magnet side of the subs) as close to the rear seats as possible, with the subs themselves facing back (so you look right at 'em when you open the trunk). It is believed that this gives the best overall in-car sound.
True? Maybe. My subs are sideways because I didn't have the room to do it any other way - and they sound great. I tried positioning my previous sub box (non-fiberglass) in many different ways, and never really noticed a difference in sound or volume.
It's up to you. But one thing with fiberglass - the only real limit is your imagination. It's wicked stuff!
I can't wait to get working on my planned door pods - hopefully someday soon........
~HH
(thumb) (bowdown)
Great jorb! That's definately gonna be my guide for doing this. Thanks for doing something like that for all us n00bs! Man...what can't this forum do for me....oh yeah...get me a jorb. Heads up...the UTC building in CA just exploded...that what my mom just said. DAMMIT!!! WHY DOES THE WORLD HATE ME!!!?!??!?
Great jorb! That's definately gonna be my guide for doing this. Thanks for doing something like that for all us n00bs! Man...what can't this forum do for me....oh yeah...get me a jorb. Heads up...the UTC building in CA just exploded...that what my mom just said. DAMMIT!!! WHY DOES THE WORLD HATE ME!!!?!??!?
BTW...any suggestions for subs/amps? Like I said...looking to add thump, but not too much. Thinking 1 or 2 tens w/ great SQ. Also...if I do (1), I can run it off the Kenwood amp, (2) I have to get a new one. What can you suggest for amps for powering said speakers for both 1 and 2 sub applications. Let's make this a challange, too...Keep it below 400$ for the setup. ~100-150 for (assume 100 for 1 sub, 150 for two) the fiber-enclosure. So...speakers for around ~250-300. Let's see if I can get some educational stuff in here, too!
Midnight22
Member
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- '03 Mazda Protege5, 94 Jeep Wrangler
thats a good question, anyone know? or can ya stick it where ya want it?
Of course a fiberglass enclosure can be ported.
But you don't just "stick a port in it".
Ported enclsoures need to be carefully designed and built in order to sound good. Without proper airspace/port/tuning, it'll sound like poo.
Doing this in a fiberglass enclosure can be a difficult task, as you can't measure and determine airspace beforehand like you can when building an MDF, straight sided box.
~HH
But you don't just "stick a port in it".
Ported enclsoures need to be carefully designed and built in order to sound good. Without proper airspace/port/tuning, it'll sound like poo.
Doing this in a fiberglass enclosure can be a difficult task, as you can't measure and determine airspace beforehand like you can when building an MDF, straight sided box.
~HH
Excellent....but that's much harder. I figure the sealed enclosure would be better for a first timer like me...
As for sub/amp...I have and idea. lemme know what you guys think:
Sub:
Elemental Designs e10O.14 - 165$
or
Eclipse SW8102.4 - 160$ on ebay (new)
Amps:
Avionixx AXA 400.2 - 185$
or
JL 300/2 - ~250$ on ebay (new)
I'll probably get a 4 channel to go with these whenever I do this. Right now there's supposedly Kenwood Excelon components in the doors, so what would I want to get to complete theis system? Or would the power behind the head unit be just fine?
As for sub/amp...I have and idea. lemme know what you guys think:
Sub:
Elemental Designs e10O.14 - 165$
or
Eclipse SW8102.4 - 160$ on ebay (new)
Amps:
Avionixx AXA 400.2 - 185$
or
JL 300/2 - ~250$ on ebay (new)
I'll probably get a 4 channel to go with these whenever I do this. Right now there's supposedly Kenwood Excelon components in the doors, so what would I want to get to complete theis system? Or would the power behind the head unit be just fine?
