Midnight22
Member
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- '03 Mazda Protege5, 94 Jeep Wrangler
ok, where can i go to learn this? true bandpass is a big thing, i just had forgotten exactly how big they got, haha my bad
Fiberglassing...
- Thread starter servoeyes
- Start date
ok, where can i go to learn this? true bandpass is a big thing, i just had forgotten exactly how big they got, haha my bad
Fiberglass is a 'trial-and-error' kinda thing. The first time you do it, you will end up with it on your hands, under your finger nails and all over your clothes if you're not really carefull.
Your best bet is start with an internet search using key words such as "fiberglass", "subwoofer", "audio", "car", etc...
I learned from reading magazines such as "Auto Sound & Security" then getting the details about it from searching and asking questions at forum.sounddomain.com. From there it was trial and error.
But be forewarned, it is alot of work. Installs that you see in magazines have 1000s of hours of sanding and detail work invested.
Your best bet is start with an internet search using key words such as "fiberglass", "subwoofer", "audio", "car", etc...
I learned from reading magazines such as "Auto Sound & Security" then getting the details about it from searching and asking questions at forum.sounddomain.com. From there it was trial and error.
But be forewarned, it is alot of work. Installs that you see in magazines have 1000s of hours of sanding and detail work invested.
I need a how-to of some sorts.
Looks like my site might be down for the count, unfortunately.
It was on donated space, so I can't complain.
I'll be looking for a new host - anyonw wanna host this thing for me?
FTP access would be great, too - so I can make changes if necessary.
Anyone who can and is willing to set it up, either post, PM, or email me.
~HH
It was on donated space, so I can't complain.
I'll be looking for a new host - anyonw wanna host this thing for me?
FTP access would be great, too - so I can make changes if necessary.
Anyone who can and is willing to set it up, either post, PM, or email me.
~HH
I've got plenty of room on my current project server which is connected to my cable modem and serves as my firewall and samba server as well...
http://www2.huyler.net
As you can see, i don't have a site on it yet, but you are welcome to dump stuff on it as long as it isn't ultra-high traffic. Although the upstream isn't great, its faster than a geocities site and you won't have to deal with popups and ads.
I haven't opened up the ftp port yet, but if you are interested drop me an email and I'll set everything up for you.
http://www2.huyler.net
As you can see, i don't have a site on it yet, but you are welcome to dump stuff on it as long as it isn't ultra-high traffic. Although the upstream isn't great, its faster than a geocities site and you won't have to deal with popups and ads.
I haven't opened up the ftp port yet, but if you are interested drop me an email and I'll set everything up for you.
hihoslva,
WOW thats an awsome tutorial ive read some on the net and I just didnt get it... i mean cmon this one is awsome though... few Q's though...
1. Size. How would I measure out the volume say if i needed a .8 cubic foot...
2. Im sure u can but how would u go about building a "wall" inside the box to seperate chambers for multi subs...
3. Sanding. Can you give me some more info on it, because I really want to paint it the same color as my car....
WOW thats an awsome tutorial ive read some on the net and I just didnt get it... i mean cmon this one is awsome though... few Q's though...
1. Size. How would I measure out the volume say if i needed a .8 cubic foot...
2. Im sure u can but how would u go about building a "wall" inside the box to seperate chambers for multi subs...
3. Sanding. Can you give me some more info on it, because I really want to paint it the same color as my car....
COOL!
Good to know my site is back online - it was down for quite a few days....
Anyway:
Volume - unless you have an area that is like a bowl (spare tire well, etc), it's difficult to measure volume before building. You can try filling a garbage bag with styrofoam peanuts, and shoving the bag into the area you will mold for your enclosure, and see what you get. Beyond that, the best thing to do is to build the mold, making it a bit larger than you need. Then you can use the styrofoam peanut trick - just fill the mold as best you can, and then pour the peanuts into a carboard box (easy to measure volume) and see what you've got.
You can also do this once the enclosure is nearly completed. If you're concerned about airspace that much, make the enclosure a bit too large - you can always add material (chunks of wood, etc) inside to take up airspace.
Overall, sealed enclosures are very tolerant of differences in airspace, and I wouldn't go crazy worrying about getting it exactly .8.
A "Wall" - a wall is unnecessary. There is no need to separate your subs. The ONLY purpose it serves is to protect one sub if the other should blow - so that the single sub is not now operating in too-large of an airspace that could be damaging. There is NO such thing as the "push-pull" effect or subs "fighting" each other in a common airspace. You don't need to separate subs as long as they are playing the same material (wired mono).
I'm not really sure how you'd go about doing it - other than it will have to be planned out well in advance. It'll also be very difficult to get the airspace of each chamber the same - something that IS important.
Personally, I wouldn't bother with it.
Finishing - sanding and paint prep will probably take longer than the construction. First roughen up the surface with some heavy grit paper - something like 40 grit oughtta do the trick. Then slather body filler (Bondo) all over the thing, let it cure, and then sand sand sand. Your object is to get it a smooth as humanly possible. It's gonna take a lot of time. Start with heavy grit paper, and work it down to the finest you can stand to use - I've read that 220 grit is good enough though. Using a high-build primer is a good idea, too - this will fill in the tiny pinholes the Bondo leaves behind.
Once you've got it smooth and all the imperfections are gone, prime it and paint it.
Simple, but very time consuming.
~HH
Good to know my site is back online - it was down for quite a few days....
Anyway:
Volume - unless you have an area that is like a bowl (spare tire well, etc), it's difficult to measure volume before building. You can try filling a garbage bag with styrofoam peanuts, and shoving the bag into the area you will mold for your enclosure, and see what you get. Beyond that, the best thing to do is to build the mold, making it a bit larger than you need. Then you can use the styrofoam peanut trick - just fill the mold as best you can, and then pour the peanuts into a carboard box (easy to measure volume) and see what you've got.
You can also do this once the enclosure is nearly completed. If you're concerned about airspace that much, make the enclosure a bit too large - you can always add material (chunks of wood, etc) inside to take up airspace.
Overall, sealed enclosures are very tolerant of differences in airspace, and I wouldn't go crazy worrying about getting it exactly .8.
A "Wall" - a wall is unnecessary. There is no need to separate your subs. The ONLY purpose it serves is to protect one sub if the other should blow - so that the single sub is not now operating in too-large of an airspace that could be damaging. There is NO such thing as the "push-pull" effect or subs "fighting" each other in a common airspace. You don't need to separate subs as long as they are playing the same material (wired mono).
I'm not really sure how you'd go about doing it - other than it will have to be planned out well in advance. It'll also be very difficult to get the airspace of each chamber the same - something that IS important.
Personally, I wouldn't bother with it.
Finishing - sanding and paint prep will probably take longer than the construction. First roughen up the surface with some heavy grit paper - something like 40 grit oughtta do the trick. Then slather body filler (Bondo) all over the thing, let it cure, and then sand sand sand. Your object is to get it a smooth as humanly possible. It's gonna take a lot of time. Start with heavy grit paper, and work it down to the finest you can stand to use - I've read that 220 grit is good enough though. Using a high-build primer is a good idea, too - this will fill in the tiny pinholes the Bondo leaves behind.
Once you've got it smooth and all the imperfections are gone, prime it and paint it.
Simple, but very time consuming.
~HH
With a sealed enclosure, volume is extremly forgiving. Even if a sub recommends say .75cuft, you could put it in a .5cuft enclosure and get higher spl or put it in a 1.0cuft enclosure for a deeper bass response.
Since most people using fiberglass are not trying to win SPL competitions, over estimating like hihoslva mentioned is always the best way to do it.
Adding scrap pieces of mdf to the inside is easy to do. But if you're worried about weight or you just don't have the space, pollyfill is a great way to trick the sub into thinking it is in a larger box.
People rarely attempt ported or bandpass boxes made of fiberglass because they are not nearly as forgiving as a sealed enclosure. An improperly tuned (meaning the volume or port is incorrect) bandpass enclosure can damage a subwoofer after only a few hours of use. Improperly tuned ported enclosures just sound bad. I am a firm believer of sealed enclosures whether it is fiberglass or mdf.
Since most people using fiberglass are not trying to win SPL competitions, over estimating like hihoslva mentioned is always the best way to do it.
Adding scrap pieces of mdf to the inside is easy to do. But if you're worried about weight or you just don't have the space, pollyfill is a great way to trick the sub into thinking it is in a larger box.
People rarely attempt ported or bandpass boxes made of fiberglass because they are not nearly as forgiving as a sealed enclosure. An improperly tuned (meaning the volume or port is incorrect) bandpass enclosure can damage a subwoofer after only a few hours of use. Improperly tuned ported enclosures just sound bad. I am a firm believer of sealed enclosures whether it is fiberglass or mdf.
