FC3 stuff

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2nd Chance

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90 Mazda RX7 Vert
(flame2)

So I have had my vert for about 2 weeks now and am starting to get it into good working order. Few things I would like to know though.

What type of gas should I use? Right now I am using Shell 93 octane strictly.

The engine has only 24kish miles and has had nothing but Mobil 1 10W-30 in it. I know you are supposed to add oil in between the changes but I have put 1k miles on the car and have already added 2 quarts and after sitting overnight the oil level shows low. After driving and then letting it sit for about 15 mins it says it has plenty though.

I don't want track tires but a nice street performance tire would be good. Any suggestions?

Any idea where I can get some replacement seat covers?

What can I use to get the wheels to shine up real nice?
 
Run 87 octane it actually tends to burn better in the NA rotarys and it saves a ton of money

Oil wise might want to run something heavier, alot of people recomend a 20w50 and you dont have to run synthetic if you dont want to, another place to save money.

Sounds like you have an oil leak somewhere 2 quarts in 1k miles seems pretty excessive

Tire wise depends on the wheels your using, money you want to spend, and how long you want them to last. For me personally i try to use a full treaded tire from whatever the popular ST autocross tires are. They generally last about 15-17k miles are very sticky and arent horribly expensive. Something like the b-stone re11 or re01r (if you can find them) or hankook rs2/3 is usually a good street tire.

Replacement seat covers can be found on ebay, ma better yet some race seatst of stock seats or better yet some race seats, stupid vert ET headrests lol

wheels i guess any mag polish or something from the auto parts store for wheels.
 
Could i get an aftermarket MAF? seeing as that is the choke point i suppose in the airflow?
What about some HID housings? The stock bulbs are so dim i can barely see at night

any how-tos on wiper switch installs?
 
Shadow102 said:
Oil wise might want to run something heavier, alot of people recomend a 20w50 and you dont have to run synthetic if you dont want to, another place to save money.
Click to expand...
Why do people recommend that? Is this coming from people who live in warm places or don't drive their car during winter? I could see using 20W50 if you live in a hot environment (temps always above 30F) but 10W30 seems to be the best between 0 and 90F. Too bad you can't get a 10W50 anymore...

Perhaps a 10W40?
 
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I have always been told 20-50 in the summer (the 50wt is realy the plus side to running that I would assume) and 10-30 in winter. The better I can lubricate and keep heat out of a rotary the better.

2nd chance, yes there are housings available that allow you to run h4 bulbs. Keep an eye on my build thread next weekend my car is getting ebay projector housings (figured I would try them), headlight hids, fog hids, and fog overlays.

The maf being a choke point is debatable people really haven't seen huge gains from removing it if your really that hard up about getting rid of it go stand alone with a map sensor and you don't need the maf.
 
the oil pressure tends to stay higher with heavier oils as well. i run 20-50 conventional in my t2 and i can definitely see the difference in the pressure with it.
 
I guess you guys can get away with the really thick stuff being more south. Up here in SW OH I've seen temps as low as -15F but rarely has the temp topped mid-90's. The 10W should be good to down around 0F whereas the 20W is only 20F according to Mazda and 10F according to Redline Oils. Based on the above info it would seem a 10W40 would be better for more northern owners although I have heard people recommend a 15W40.
 
Does my car have a carburetor or fuel injectors?

What type of gains might I expect from a Racing Beat Holley carburetor intake system?

Is Royal Purple worth the money in a daily driver?
 
2nd Chance said:
Does my car have a carburetor or fuel injectors?

What type of gains might I expect from a Racing Beat Holley carburetor intake system?

Is Royal Purple worth the money in a daily driver?
Click to expand...

Chances are if you don't know if you have fi or carb then putting a carb kit on your car would probably turn into a bad idea. But to answer your question your car is fuel injected.

Royal purple *shrug* some people swear by it, personally I wouldn't waste a dime on it and prefer using conventional oils. If you are hell bent on synthetic go with syntec.
 
OK so the other day I plugged my phone charger into the cig lighter and when I went to pull it out later on the whole unit (lighter and all) came with it. I went ahead and disconnected so I wouldn't lose any of the parts or risk it getting broken further. After wards though I noticed that I had lost my clock and my power mirrors.

Any idea how I might be able to fix this?
 
Don't go carb unless you have a motor built for it, just throwing a carb on an N/A and that being the only modification is worthless in my opinion. Most people who run carbs are usually only because they go bridgeport and they don't want to have to go standalone, bigger injectors, gauges, etc. And yes shadow is correct, just check the fuses that run these systems and check to see if they have been blown. And do not run royal purple yet again just like shadow said unless you have a built motor, it's worthless to spend the money on a stock N/A it will not help anything.
 
That's a pretty sweet looking ride you got there, Shadow.
I assume it is the factory paint, does it have any metal flake in it or is it just a gloss?

What type of exhaust do you have?

I checked the fuses and they all seem to be fine....
 
I am beginning to see why the guy sold the car when he did. It seems its reached the point when ALL the electric stuff is going bad...

The toggle on the driver window has gone out and is stuck down.
Any ideas?
 
Almost got it fixed. I took off the door panel and got the window switch out of it. Opened it up and the toggle had broken on one side and was sliding back when I tried to push it up. I used some gorilla glue so it's a little stiff but it seems like it will work as a temporary replacement until I can scrounge up another switch from salvage yard.
 
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